Terry Whiting

Building, kits, Models & Plans as suggested,,,,,,see you. 

Well Jetsome it's an own design based on a  three view line drawings by Richard Ferriere obtained through Google Image. My scale I based on Air Power 700 units which gave me a  finished nacelle diameter of 105mm. That then become the basis for  the scale.   The fuselage was built as two half shells, using the horizontal datum line as the devider, this enabled me to fit out with close loop, or as the Aussees call it a  pull, pull system which I think describes  the system well. No bellcranks were used to opperate the elevator, as  the pull pull passed throught fine PTFE tubing, and up through the fin. .                                                                                                                                                           Narcelles were also built as the fuselage,( forgot to mention, the fuselage  and narcelles are  planked) The wing is all sheeted with two spars running parallel  130mm apart, had two 3mm mortice boxes made between ribs where the narcelles  were to fit, Two tenoned formers were incorporated in the build of the top nacelle halves, these were halves were part built, glued in situe, then completed. The tailplane was made 12mm lower than scale, this  little more root chord and 50mm greater span, this helped to increase total area . Span 150cm...Fuz length 115cm...Nacelles 41cm   finished model less electrics  2lb 4oz.  

I have now added details to my profile

When I started modelling tissue and dope was the norm,it's all we had, today I think it would kill me. I can understand you wish to do the wing justice by continuing that finish on the fuselage, but I think us modellers tend to go OTT with Warbird finishes, we become brainwashed with these pristine privately owned  warbirds seen at our shows, which are nothing like the true finish. The ME 262 I have just finished, Is covered in grey Profilm. That fuselage has some serious compound curves, but was covered in  four panels of film, starting at the bottom, sides, then top.  The seams  you can see, but you need to look hard. Best of luck on whatever you choice. Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 27/01/2011 07:48:06 Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 27/01/2011 07:48:17

Hello Jetsome, Sorry if I have stepped out of line, I stand corrected,  I assumed that placing my thread  'Hi you guys'  in  Newbie Threads was the only requirement. Unlike modelling, this PC caper is totally new to me.

Shaun.....I have been at this building game many years, and I have found Profilm the icing on the cake as far as a covering material, so pal I do not know what you are doing to get a bad finish. Profilm will take all modelling paints except celulose based. The finished model needs wiping over with Isoropyl alcohole and is ready for painting.  Spectra can be brushed or purchase in spray cans, and it is fuel resistant. What must be remember the finish is only as good as the preparation, and that applies to any paint or film covering..............Don't forget 95% of RTF use profilm   Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 27/01/2011 07:49:22

Glenn What size is this dep-lanc, and what will be the AUW, because BRC have a motor combo,    A 130W  motor and 20A ESC @ £9.99 .  If £40 don't break the bank, there's your answer. Forget what you were intending to do, keep your fingers away from props, especially electric, as they keep biting you until the power is disconnected........OCH...     with..no flingers no turnee offee.

NIck, Was washout recommended in the build? as the DC 3 has one hell of a taper if it's true scale . I personally think you tailplane (TP) incidence is OK. Too much TP leading negative incidence would put her nose up in flight, but would not let the TP rise as quick as you say on take off, I would recheck the balance point and go for at 25% of the mean chord as a starter.

Steve,  Using a flight sim can help, and I know it has been a great asset to many new to the hobby.  but remember it is still only two dimensional and nothing like the real thing. The best way is join a club, and hopefull instruction will be given using the buddy box system. I have instructed many on the buddy box that have gone on to be really good flyers, and I may add, still have  their first model. 

My name is Terry, new to forum, but not new to modelling. I started modelling of sorts in the latter years of  WW 2 , that was my first introduction to Balsa Wood. My next door neighbour worked at D H Leavesden on the production of Mosquitos, he brought me home some offcuts of Balsa, that was my introduction into real modelling, albeit sollid models. In completetion of National Service in 1952  I started modelling in earnest , gliders, rubber powered free flight, then powered free flight.  My first powered free flight was the Cherub with a wonderful litte Mills .75 which I must add I still own today, and runs as beautiful as ever. I know free flight is frowned upon by most RC flyers today, but it taught you the art of trimming which is lacking by the many of model flyers today, I must add not their fault as they started at the top of the ladder with the introduction of ARTF. Towards the end of 1956 was my first tast of RC flying, which to be honset was RC interrupted free flight. I say that because RC models of that period had to be test glided and trimmed as any free flight , essential as your only control was rudder.                                                                                                                 All the radio and hardware was home made  27meg . There was commercial gear appearing, but one was talking mega bucks, a years wages. My first RC model was the Electra at 56", span it was a giant, laughable by todays standard. The receiver, a sigle valve job, was suspended by elastic bands, three batteries were required, a 22.5v, and1.5v  were for the receiver, and a 4.5v  for the escapement  for rudder control, I only wished I had kept that gear. After a lifetime of  I/C RC flying, I was getting rather jaded with the whole scene, I had tried electric  when nicad flight packs appeared, but I wasn't taken by it, a flash in the pan I thought, it will never take on, how wrong I was. Today all but two of my I/C models have been sold off, and have gone electric. Being a designer/builder of sorts, EDF was a new challenge. Today I have three EDF models, designed from 72 scale three view line drawings obtained off the net. The DH Vampire, North American Fury, and the ME262, all based on the same power plant, the Air Power 700 with Mega EDF motors. The Vampire,and Fury are both 39" span,  2lb 3oz and fly from a good hand launch, the ME 262 is 60" span as yet unflown AUW ready for flight 4.5lb with static thrust of 4lb, but will be ramp bungee launched. Well I hope I haven't bored you all to death.                                                                                            

Ernie, If you are absolutely sure your plumbing is OK just try an extra click  or two of richness before touching the slow running needle. The slow running would be the last on my list. Have you fitted an extention wire to the main needle valve ? as this can be a cause of trouble, but  from what you stated when starting  this topic, I'm sure all that is required is opening the main needle.    Have fun.