Terry Whiting

Simon, How on earth  they manage that price and free postage, which in itself must be near 20% of the cost, then still able to make a profit  is mind boggling. It has be long term unsustainable.   This has become a neat little project in it's own rite, it has certainly made me think of  Depron in a different light as a building material for just such models.

Simon,   At that weight I should think you will have to treat the throttle very gently.   BRC have 3.7g servos in stock @  £3.99.  Edited By Terry Whiting on 25/01/2010 19:51:19

Thanks Simon, It has a similar spec to the BRC A2204 which I have in stock. 1400kv 9A max 19g 2s 400 mah prop 8x4 APC E thin  

Simon,   Intresting little motor, what is the specification ? as I  was thinking of going brushless in my Widgeon.

Simon,   It looks as I'm too late making this suggestion which was to fit a rudder to the test model. I suppose the addition could still be made by taping a 3g servo on top of the fuselage, the rudder  doesn't have to be used but gives another optional control .   My reason for making the suggestion is at take off or launch speeds I think a rudder will be essential, the rudder and elevator will be the only controls which will have any authority at extreme low speed .    

Simon, That looks a smart little model, and  surprising light. Being a balsa builder I have never given Depron a thought, but I must say I'm really tempted after seeing your efforts.   If I was doing the test, once the test model was ballanced, I would ballast to equal the weight of the 'masterpiece'.    Looking forward to the results. 

Big Phil   Making a canopy by shrinking a bottle around a plug is reasonably simple, but servo covers you will need as FTB suggested a male and female plug, other than that it would need vacuum forming.

Simon, With the hours and thought gone into your project I do not blame you least. If it was my model I would also wish for more than one bite of the cherry.   Will your  trial model be the same weight , and use a similar power train? 

Hi Jim,   The plan is not one of the easiest to read,   but fear not   Thousands of models have the fin glued directly to the fuselage. Mine is indirectly the same, but it's a built up fin with two 4mm dowls added in the build, these are glued through two 3mm X 20mm cross members which I glue across the top of the fuselage box between F10 & 11 .   .,   In answere to your 9mm problem, yes just make it up from 3mm sheet.  Make your fin as Mario's scetch, and taper it down to about 4-5mm at it's tip , your rudder leading edge/ hinge post wants the same corresponding taper. I only used a 1.5mm sheet rudder core. This was glued to a centre line of the rudder's LE, and from scrap 1.5mm sheet  made the riblets.   Always give a shout if in doubt 

Hi Alan,   I added 3mm birch ply beneath the ally,and  captive nuts,I remember cutting off the nut spikes and epoxying the nuts in position so that the threaded ends came through the aluminium, reason for cuting off the spikes was to stop splitting the ply.   The interplane struts were just tenoned into built in wing slots,  but all my flying wires were functional, and for  that you require REALLY good anchor points.   Terry  .   Edited By Terry Whiting on 18/01/2010 12:21:09

Toni, Stand off scale is all I ever aim for too, and try to achieve this with the least work possible.  I have used this method for many a year as I'm not a lover of commercial canopies with with those oversized glazing bars, and painting inside a conopy became my pet hate. This method saved adding frame work to the plug, and painting,  the prepainted litho is just adhered to the ouside canopy, job done.   My Lysander canopy is/was a commercial horror, but by adding prepainted aluminium self adhesive tape to the raised glazing bars, it has turned out almost respectable.   By the way you are making a cracking job of the Hurri.    Edited By Terry Whiting on 18/01/2010 10:30:24

Toni,   Have you tried a plain smooth canopy, then making the frame work with pre painted lithoplate adhered with double sided sellotape, works a treat and looks very scaleish when the paint is scratched showing the aluminium frame work.

Jack,   Newcastle Brown?, funny you should say that as I have a case in the pantry, the trouble is they are a bit moreish, too many of them I would be seeing double , and my Lysander could end up as a bi-plane,      but anyway, one up to you mate....cheers .    Terry                                                     ,  

Hi Jack, (no pun intended)    I think we have sampled a little of your weather here in the UK, before you laugh, I did say 'little'   Yes you are spot on it's 3mm threaded rod, and the best with your build. 

John,   At 17 stone and wielding a big hammer I shouldn't think there was much of a contest,  

Alan,   I sounds as though you are cracking on well with Tooty, keep that back end a light as poss,as Toot's weight can easily increase. I can not remember the weight of either of mine, stupid really should have kept a record. I know the first one was covered in doped nylon, and painted with  white Valspar Lacquer, the second was a heat shrink finish. Both cowls I made in fibre glass from my own moulds.  

John,    Received it this afternoon,  great stuff.     Terry 

Best wished to you Boddo, we all want to see you back on the Old Warden flight line this summer. 

John,   Thank you very much, will be looking out for Postman Pat.  I hope it hasn't deprived you of your stock, as Mario is kindly sending me a laser cut U/C. Did you remembered to included your home address?.   Regards  Terry

Simon,   I do not envy your task of connecting up the ailerons on that size model.     When I first saw the picture with it's upper wing fitted I emmited a little gasp, but then I read your thread. What incidence settings have you decided on? .

Jim,   I wouldn't plane or sand the stringers to the level of your present hatch, as it will show when covered.    Just make  thin packer strips from scrap sheet, when satisfied the hatch fits flush either glue the packers to the formers or the hatch.    I quite often set my razor plane at it most coarse cut and use the shaving for packing purposes, very handy when you find a rib which is a fraction low when checking with a staight edge, A few strips of shaving would most probably do the trick with your hatch. .    Terry

HI Mario,   What a wonderful surprise to see my Lyizzy pictures on site, thank you very much indeed.   I have followed many build blogs on the site, but Jim's blog has a club feel about it. This really is what this hobby is about, it can pull  a group of total strangers together and create a true feeling of   esprit de corps.    Terry

Jim,   Cutting out the canopy is not really a problem, the sides are straight cuts so the only curvatures are the front and rear.  The formed glazing bars are a good guide, but cut leaving yourself a little wastage for final trimming.   I only stiffened the long side edges by using double sided Celotape and 6mm wide strips of 1/64" birch ply, these were stuck to the inside edges. Only 4 extremely small self tap screws were required, 2 each side.   I have not bothered with the hatch as my servos will be fitted through the canopy opening  which makes for easy access.   Terry

Hello Jim,   Yes the chamfer on F1 & F2 give greater gluing areas, I extended the balsa sheet a little beyond F2, then trimmed back when trial fitting the canopy. I have made my canopy removeable.   As I stated previously I didn't buy the wood pack so I can not say if the hole is centre.   The plane shows a hole which is 3.5mm to the right of the centre line, your engine mount should be  fitted central to that hole which will then bring the end of the crankshaft central when the cowl is fitted. The reason for off setting the mount is because the required side thrust was built in.   I have just to fit the fin,  then complete the rear end of the fuselageEdited By Terry Whiting on 09/01/2010 10:53:01

Simon, I'm sure you must be right with your balance calculations, but that balance point seems extremely forward.