Terry Whiting

Mario,   You are showing us some real scale workmanship, fantasic bit of modelling  By the way, what covering have you used, natural Tex ?   Terry

Simon,   If you do not mind me asking, what is the weight of those two combined cells,?   Terry

Hi Mario,   I did read that someone had problems bending their aluminium U/C, but I do not know  if it was just the size of his vice was the problem.   The Aluminium would be wonderful.   Regards   Terry. 

Hi Mario,   Welcome back, hope you enjoyed the break.   I have reworked my fin/rudder, it's now hinged as the full size aircraft. I do not  expect it will make any difference in flight.   The U/C looks a nice job, will you have to anneal the aluminium prior to bending?   I  was lazy, fitted commercial horns on rudder and elevator just because I had two pair of black horns, and cut them from 2mm fibre glass sheet for flaps and ailerons .   Thats been my total out put over Christmas.       

Hi Alan,   Mine had no vices, but it sure is not a trainer, so  I just hope when the time comes you  fly it with an instructor on a buddy box.   If you are building strictly to the plan it's no lightweight, but even for a bi-plane can be quite slippery on approaches, but I loved it. I think it would make a nice electric scaled down to 1/6th (44" span)  and lighten the build.   All the best with your build,   Terry

Hi Jim.   No, a cold garage can certainly deter ones enthusiasm, I'm extremely lucky to have a well insulated modelling den which only requires a 600W oil rad to keep it aired.   I'm as you, have my Granddaughter and  Greatgrand children from Australia staying  with my wife and I for a month which means little will be done on the model. I think I will need a month to recuperate once they have gone home, 

Hi Alan,   I have actually built two Toots, one as a commission in the mid 70's, and one in 85 for myself.   It sure is a lump of model, but has a real presents in the air as most bi-planes do. Originally I flew it on an old OS 60 rear carb 2st which was a little marginal, eventually it was powered on a Laser 100, beautiful flyer, but finally sold it about 4 years ago to a guy in Scotland, just hope he is still enjoying it.   Terry

Hi Alan,   I use Picasa 3 for all my pictures, and I'm hoping eventually to be able include some pictures of my Lysander build to this topic which Jim so kindly started.   By the way Jim how is the build coming on???    Edited By Terry Whiting on 02/01/2010 17:15:34

Simon, That is a beautiful little receiver, but I think you would be wise keeping it well away from the motor and ESC. I sure do when using 35 meg with electric.  

Hi Len, I wondered that, but when I worked out the actual fuselage length from the full size figure, it should have been 40.5". I have built mine from the pullout plan, but not precisely to the stated wood sizes.   Best of luck with your build,.......     and  a HAPPY NEW YEAR  to everyone.  Edited By Terry Whiting on 01/01/2010 08:04:31

Peter,   Mario's hinge is a true scale job, take you time in making the  test piece as it's function depends on the precise hinge position.  Robart do two sizes,  you will require the smaller of the two which are 50mm. I hope you remembered hinge blocks inside both fin and tail plane as these hinges need an anchor point.   On the fullsize Lysander it's only the leading edges of the rudder and elevators which are rounded, then the hinge gaps a shrouded with screwd sheeting to the fin and tail plane. This gives smooth air flow over the gap       

Hi John,   That is extremely kind of you, I would like to take up your offer.  PM me your address, and I will put a cheque in the post . I was going to make the UC from piano wire for the simple reason I couldn't aquire the Aluminium sheet .   Regards   Terry

Peter,  As for B1 & B2 check the wing X section on the plan. I built the wing, but I didn't go for the CNC wood pack. I didn't make a B1-B2, but in place of, I made a 3mm ply brace which fitted in between (central) the main spars of both wing panels.    Personally I do not think your hatch idea will give you the access you are looking for. I have gone for external closed loop (pull-pull) on both controls, and as for the tail wheel mine will be self castering as all my tail wheel models are.   Pleased to hear you have got cracking again with the project. 

Yes Stephen join the club, if you are not building one we will make you an 'Honorary Member' ,......      Peter,    Moor Models,       ,  that's where I bought mine,       phone first   01923 896129           

Simon,  Yes, I should have stated  Watts   The Widgeon's power train was  from the fuselage of a smashed foamy Tiger Moth given to me, I salvaged two mimi servos, a GWS   4-8 cell  2Amp ESC . very small  unlabled brushed geared motor with a reduction of 6-1. The receiver had no case, but thought to be GWS,  the battery was a very small 7 cell Nicad  both  were discarded.  This lead to the Widgeon's conversion.      Your endurance   ' Wing Dragon' construction  sounds interesting

Hi Simon, A few pages back I stated concern about the power output of the tests you ran, and your last tests you stated the 5Amp was more than adequate, and I totally agree. as that equates to 35W. With the Pup that is 7W per oz   This made me check on some of my models.   My converted Westland Widgeon from rubber to Electric is 7.25oz, it flies on 1.6 oz per oz.      My 7lb Lancaster flies on 50W per LB  = (3.1W per oz),     The 8lb Sopwith 1&1/2 Strutter flies on 56W pr LB =(3.5W per oz   The Lanc and Strutter only require this power on take off, and they are no slouches on take off.   I hope I'm reading into this a non existing problem.   Regards  Terry     Edited By Terry Whiting on 23/12/2009 10:46:02 Edited By Terry Whiting on 23/12/2009 11:15:27

Well done John, that has given you a wing loading just under 31.5 oz. Just have to be patient now for the right weather conditions for her maiden.   Best of luck   Terry    

Nice work John, I think there will be a few Lizzies embarking on maiden flights in the new year.   What was the final AUW ? ,and any problems obtaining that balance point?    

Hi Mario.   I messaged in the week as I have had problems with you email addresses.   Terry

Tim, I gave up using the little vid/cams and went back to my old Panasonic MC30 VHS, this camera enables the use of a separate mike to which I use a furry mike sock, virtually cuts out all wind noise .   I do get some strange looks, as by todays standard it's antique . At one show a character said " He matey, you should be careful where you put that mike,because that guinea  pig doesn't look very happy"............there has to be one

Timbo,   Well worth waiting for, I thought it's sound was quite authentic.  Shame about the wind noise.  , but will be looking forward to that Jan issue.   TW

Mario,   Nice looking engine, I have seen a few YS engines but never one such as that. I shouldn't think  you will need your tail weight, not if Tony Nijhuis used a flight pack in the cowl.   Mario, check your personal messages I sent you one in the week, it was only to do with photos, nothing really important.   Terry 

Biggles ,E,B,   I use 'emery cloth' , no fear of disintegration.

Allan, The removeable forward canopy section was that of John Laverick, he showed pictures of his model in the Allan Bennett carbon U/C topic. As for the hatch i'm afraid it was going to be rather tight for my fingers, so I just extended the bottom stringers to F5, and took the easy option of a removeable canopy. I would only have to remove it if there was a servo or RX problem.   Being electric I have made it so that my whole cowl, motor, ESC, and battery are one assembly,which  unlocks and slid out of the fuselage box. All I have to do is remove one 2.5mm X 15mm bolt, and unplug the cowl, then unplug the BEC extention lead.              

Hi Jim, Pleased to hear you are cracking on with it. As for sanding the longerons to round them off I think that would be rather a job, just give them a light sanding taking off any sharp corners.   I personally have not constructed the hatch, for the simple reason it is far too small to work on servos. My canopy will be detachable which will give greater access to all the radio gear,. In your case it would also give access to any fuel tank problems that might occur  too.  On all my I/C models, I made sure I had access to the fuel tank.