Sheldon Holy

Oh, i forgot one. At the Club, with people watching, starting my heli, taking it out to the strip, walking back to the flightline...I throttle up... nothing happens. I realise it is not turned on.

I'm 100% sure this is the YT one, certainly looks a lot like it.Do you think this will 3D? Sheldon

Haha, Heathen to anyone who contradicts this!It's ideas like this that are fun. Anyway, why not?Good to hear it still flies!

Haha, Heathen to anyone who contradicts this!It's ideas like this that are fun. Anyway, why not?Good to hear it still flies!

Today would have been perfect for testing this! Loverrrlyyy weather.Whereabouts in the uk are you Tony? I'm just near brighton.

LOL I was thinking you must have spent an arm and a leg buy now (awful pun intended). Yes, although expensive, the price of the basic kit is very attractive.Then you think... "Oh, i'll just add the headtracker, oh and the diversity box thing, oh, i've just doubled the price..." You try again, but it's impossible i say. The price is putting me off atm, as i dont actually have any money, well, maybe 1p in my pocket...  I saw that P-47 vid on i think page 4, out of all the FPV vids i have seen that one has to be one of the best! Sheldon

Sods law... Hmm... Got my 1/4 scale Stampe to the field, engine dosent work as there is a clog in the carb. Try to fly the heli, but stwitch goes mad on starter, i remove starting wand from model, but hey, the switch will quite happily turn on, when i dont want it to, and it wont't turn off. Anyway, starting wand removed ffrom model, starter still going, wand flies out of starter, and punches a nice hole in the canopy. I get home, fix starter, go down to my field to fly. 12v battery flat after filling up my last tank of fuel. I charge 12v battery, go down there, to find that i had left the tube off the engine with the clip undone... my last tank of fuel had drained out onto the grass. Next time with Stampe, carb clogged again.Next time with Stampe, everything working beforehand. I turn it on and see smoke pouring out of every possible orrifice. When soldering inside only recently before, some solder got splashed across the positive and negative contacts of the battery checker plug and had shorted out the very high power sub-c nimh 3300mha 6v rx pack. Pet hate:Someone crashes a plane due to loss of radio contact, turns around and says "thats the fourth time that reciever has done that!" That person is me.  Solarfilm won't shrink properly.. More heat. Heat gun burns a hole in beatifully covered wing and you realise, despite you painting the whole model in balsaloc beforehand, that you have applied covering with backing still on.  Go to America with your coaxial heli, turn it on to fly on the first night, to find that you have left the Rx crystal 2500 miles away...  Sheldon (Shedlon Hobnob)  Feel free to laugh... Edited By sheldon holy on 03/03/2010 21:30:43

Revolution models do the 6200 for £40 and the 7000 for £50! Thats a tenner cheaper than most places!

Ok. That sounds good then. I have just designated, definately, this xmas and my birthday next year to an fpv setup...Well, lets hope anyway...I've decided that i'm going to get the 2.4 setup for FPV and get the 35 mhz module for the 10C. I'll get this at my birthday in may anyway as i'm going to get my Panic going with a .91 and have 4 servos in the wing. I'm going to use 35mhz with that as a 2.4 rx that can support 9 channels is about £150 or something stupid like that. Anyway, Tony, when are you going to get this thing in to the air!? Sheldon

Hi. I saw your build on David E's blog, looking good. That paragliding looks pretty amazing!   Sheldon

Ohhh. Ok. Thanks Simon. It seems i really dont know what i'm talking about (regarding the frequency buisness) LOL .I'd definatley like to get FPV, but if i did i would not get it without the headtracker, as i wouldn't be able to cope with just a forward view, if you understand what i'm getting at. Also, does the headtracker have to have another pilot on a buddy lead? I know the BMFA want's a person in view of the plane all the time, but:A. I would only fly FPV in my field, down the garden, and so would not have anyone else there to be on another transmitter. B. I dont have another Tx.C. Whats the point of FPV if you are just doing circuits around a field? I'm not angry, just giving a point.  Cheers, Sheldon

This looks great. I wish i had the money to get FPV. I'd get the 900mhz (1.2ghz) setup from hobbywireless.com so i could stick with my 2.4. Tony, do you have a futaba radio? I got my 10C over the jr pcm 9x2 as it can have channel inputs (i think...). Do you go onto the AUX-CH menu and choose any of the 'LS' channels?   Sheldon

Hmm. you may want to go down in pitch, and up in diameter to a 14/6 Graupner 3 blader as the 12/8 will mean it'll be slooting around the sky, lots of torque reaction when you throttle up, it'll only want to fly fast with that prop. Sheldon

Nice job!That exhaust looks great. As for the 3 blade prop - i use the Graupner ones, and i use the same dimensions as the 2 blade one. I often over prop engines on models like this, the seem to run better. It'll look brilliant.  Sheldon

Posted by John Privett on 28/02/2010 13:53:59: Posted by A.A. Barry on 28/02/2010 13:42:55: p.s who has never left there TX home????? The Tx is probably about the only thing I haven't left at home at one time or another.  Most recently, I decided mid-week that my 12v battery needed charging, so took it out of the flight box and stuck it on charge.  Next weekend I went flying and got as far as trying to fuel my heli before wondering why the fuel pump didn't work...  Yep - 12v battery was still at home on charge. Eventually my fellow club-members stopped laughing long enough to point out that I had a mechanical pump as well as the electric one,  and to offer their flight boxes to plug my glow lead and starter into.  I'd only taken the heli with me so that would have been a bit trick to hand start!   I've forgotten my Tx alright, but has anyone ever forgotten theri plane...?  Of course, the sharp, amazing me would never do that...

Hmm, where should one start! 1. When using 35MHz, i took off with the ariel down, and soon most control. Luckily i realised as it was heading down and corrected it. 2. Starting my heli in Idle-Up (full throttle).  3. Starting my heli, carrying, it out. Raising the left stick and realising it was not turned on.

13IC ScaleIC Aerobatics (incl 3D) Heli IC Thats just 3 of them. I actually count for all LOL. First model, at 9, Chris Foss Uno-Wot.

How much is this kit, where do you get it from. What size engine etc...???   Nice build!   Sheldon

How much is this kit, where do you get it from. What size engine etc...???   Nice build!   Sheldon

That looks brilliant!   Should fly well too. Will show up well, which is certainly a big bonus! It's good that you didn't use translucent film, as against any sort of light you wouldnt be able to tell whick way up it is! Well, you would when you are digging the fuse out of the hill!   Sheldon

Posted by Phil Brooks on 25/02/2010 19:32:43: Thanks for that Norman, when I've cleared the three other projects on the board I'll make a start! Good luck with the maiden.     :Posted by sheldon holy on 25/02/2010 16:22:55 And lastly, Phil, i have found, when experimenting with a clubmate's Easyglider, that you get much longer with the smallest possible battery. You use the motor for less time as it climbs far quicker, plus that puts less load on the motor so you can have a smaller motor, yet lighter. Dave's setup should be nice.   Yes Sheldon, appreciate that, but earlier in the thread Dave had said that he would have to fit ballast because his battery and motor had to conform to club competition regulations and were lighter than the original design allowed for.  If there's a choice between adding several ounces of lead or a larger battery I'll go for the battery.  I stand corrected! I too would go for the battery, but i guess non-competition flying i'd use the small battery, but that depends on weather etc...  Sheldon

Ken,I've heared they go very well. They are pretty foolproof, especially at this size! I've now got the hang of the hand starting, a couple of times when using chicken sticks, they slip from your hand and so if it backfires, as you dont have the momentum, the chicken stick becomes a leaver and jarrs your wrist. I prefer to use a glove and use it with my hand, give it a big, powerful flick. Yes, i dont want to get near that prop when it's going! The plan is, at my birthday (in may), to get a smoke system. HobbyKing do the Sullivan Super Smoker ofr $80. I have tried the old method, nipple in backplate etc... but have found it is a bit hit and miss, dosent work that well.   Emil, the span is 81", (almost 7 foot) so its quite big! sure, its only about 20-25"  more than an average 40 size model, but the two wings and just the fact it's quite chunky, if you will, makes it seem a lot bigger! Sheldon Edited By sheldon holy on 25/02/2010 20:26:46

And lastly, Phil, i have found, when experimenting with a clubmate's Easyglider, that you get much longer with the smallest possible battery. You use the motor for less time as it climbs far quicker, plus that puts less load on the motor so you can have a smaller motor, yet lighter. Dave's setup should be nice. Sheldon

Oh, a good way to cheat on covering the nose, would to have say the nose just painted in sanding sealer, and have the back portion of the fuselage covered. An even better way. is to have the covering stop at the hard to cover nose block, and paint the nose block. Just 2 mins with a brush should take care of that. Most model shops sell those little Humbrol paint cans, and they are what i use. Sheldon

I guess one could say your power setup may be slightly lacking in power, but it'll be a perfect Sunday evening model, and the power should be fine as long as you treat the motor as just sometheing to make it climb. All the rest of the time should be motor off. Nice build! Sheldon