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The "GumCam"


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Posted by Gemma Jane on 01/06/2010 16:04:12
I've got a massive loss of quality on uploading to youtube though. I've seen way better quality clips on youtube from these cams, any tips of what I should do to preserve the quality on upload?
 
One "quirk" of youtube is that they do some processing of videos after they've been uploaded.  If you view the video within a few minutes (maybe as long as an hour?) after uploading then the quality can look really poor.  There's a caption displayed on the youtube screen if you view it on youtube rather than embedded here that says that they're still processing the video and quality may improve - but the caption is easy to miss.

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Thanks guys I've taken note of all the tips and will see if I can get better results. I'm going to try tail mounted next. I've some reservations as to what it will do to the trim/elevator operation sitting the camera on the horizontal stab but hopefully the camera being relatively small all will be well. Here is the view, waiting for a sunny day to give it a go:
 
 
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I've actually been amazed at how decent performance from mine has been in poor light, so although it will be better with good light, don't worry too much. The most challenging conditions for these cameras is probably a day with sun and cloud, as the dynamic range will be very high.
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Tested the tail mounted camera. I don't think a Parkzone BF109 will ever make an ideal camera mount, but the fun view was worth the effort I thought. I noticed a wave effect across the wing and fuz in the film, I'm pretty sure this is vibration of the tail unit in flight.
 
 
 
 
I'm begining to think some of the quality loss is happening when I save in WMM before I upload to youtube, I'll have to figure out what is the best format to save in.
 
The effect of mounting the camera on one side of the tail was as I expected, it was a bit like flying a model that couldn't quite be trimmed out, not impossible to control but not entirely comfortable in turns or aeros (That's my excuse for the scruffy landing ). I guess with the disruption to airflow over the horizontal stab on one side and the partial blanking of one side of the elevator it was like flying a model with a 1/4 to a 1/3rd of one horizontal stab missing! In all though good fun and it did cross my mind that if I put a dummy cam on the other side of the horizontal stab it might balance the quirky controls.
 
 
I was browsing youtube last night and found a vid where I guy dismantles a 808 key fob cam. What is very intriguing is the really tiny size of the a camera unit and the fact it's on on a ribbon connection...... now if someone would  come up with a version where the camera was on a long ribbon connector from the main board I was thinking that would be great for us, we could have cams in wing roots (like gun cams on scale WWII models) or just about anywhere on a model with the main electronics tucked away out of the airflow. If someone starts making that for £7.99 I'll order 10.
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That video looked good to me!
 
Regarding the breakdown and inards of these little cameras, (I'm pretty sure I linked this before, but) if you haven't seen it, this site has a HUGE wealth of info about these cameras.
 
You will be amazed at the research that has been done into them.
 
There's even a pic there of my Orion with an 808 mounted on the wing.
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Posted by John Horsfield on 11/05/2010 12:55:26:
Ive just received a key fob cam to try out as a comparison to my "lighter"cam. Unfortentley it looks like Ive got a dud... It often refuses to switch on and when I fianlly get it working the battery seems to fail after about 10 mins. When it is working I think its fair to say the quality is better, but I find it effected by vibration more. I'll try and get the ebay seller to send me another...
 
Also the 4GB card that came with my lighter cam is no more...
It is now unreadable, which i guess comfirms how poor the quality of these cheap copys are...
 
 Ive just received the replacement key fob cam and guess what, it doesnt work at all! Grrr! Wont even switch on....
I'll take it apart tonight and see if there is anything obviously wrong with it, if not I guess I'll have to try and get another replacment...
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Here's a second vote for trying another cable. If it hasn't charged up properly that would explain it turning off after a short period, or not turning on at all.
 
Also if it won't turn on, try the reset button, a paperclip is ideal for pushing it.
 
Good luck!
 
The manufacturing quality of these is obviously hit and miss, but that's not surprising at the price!
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Another vote on the USB cable, that was problem one I had to overcome.
 
Hope I can explain this clearly but my one won't turn on unless the light is still on **AFTER** I remove the USB cable.
 
So I pull the USB  cable and the light stays on, I can then switch the unit off and it will switch on again.
 
If though I pull the USB cable and the light goes out... no show I can't switch it on without reconnecting to the USB, removing it and checking the light is ON after removal.
 
In practice this usually means removing the USB (light goes out), plugging it back in and removing it again (light stays on), switching the unit off using the button, it's then ready to switch on when needed.
 
 
 
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It's a lot easier to do than to describe (I just have to remember to do it each time I disconnect or I'll end up at the field with a cam that won't switch on ).
 
I'll be getting more of these key fob cams for sure, at £7.99 one per model is a real option.
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Ta David, I'll add a paper clip to my field bag to go with my 'just in case' bind plug lol.
 
Bob, I'm still reading through that site, the cams could almost be a hobby on their own!
 
Another bit of fun, I've aged the tail mounted vid in WMM back to 1945...
 
 
 
 
 
 
.....now I have a very good reason to get rid of the date and time stamp... more reading about these amazing little cams to do!
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Ta Bruce, one more version I did last night trying out more features in WMM to capture the atmosphere of the BF109. If people can last through the German military marches for 8 minutes there is a bit of fun at the end!
 
 
 
 
Having made a start I think I can figure out better now what I will want to try to capture on film during the flights and might have a go with different views edited together next, probably a bit shorter with just the best action used too.
 
In all though, cheap camera, plenty of fun!
 

Edited By Gemma Jane on 04/06/2010 14:21:35

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Posted by Carl Muff on 03/06/2010 21:23:08:
i got one these ,great camera and comes with mounts too .very lite i mounted it on a mini servo plug into channel 6 for a 180 view
 
the camera 
 

 

 They sure are good. I actually mentioned the MD80 on page 4 of this thread and posted a couple of sample videos too

Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 04/06/2010 17:30:09

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Posted by Gemma Jane on 04/06/2010 00:57:49:

.....now I have a very good reason to get rid of the date and time stamp... more reading about these amazing little cams to do!
 
 
If you can't get rid of the date/timestamp maybe you could reset it back to an appropriate date in the 1940s?

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Posted by Bob Moore on 03/06/2010 13:47:18:
There are quite a few reports of faulty usb cables being supplied with these cheapo cameras?  Might be worth trying an hour's charge with another cable. I've also seen reports on that site of how to revive dead cameras.  Have a scroll through?  http://www.chucklohr.com/808/  Like hold the on/off button 'on' while plugging in etc. Worth a try?
 
Actually both of my cams came with the wrong cable! Lol
Im using the cable that came with my DSLR so Im pretty confident that its not the cable. I'll check out the link, hopefully I'll find something...
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Posted by Gemma Jane on 03/06/2010 16:00:53:
Another vote on the USB cable, that was problem one I had to overcome.
 
Hope I can explain this clearly but my one won't turn on unless the light is still on **AFTER** I remove the USB cable.
 
So I pull the USB  cable and the light stays on, I can then switch the unit off and it will switch on again.
 
If though I pull the USB cable and the light goes out... no show I can't switch it on without reconnecting to the USB, removing it and checking the light is ON after removal.
 
In practice this usually means removing the USB (light goes out), plugging it back in and removing it again (light stays on), switching the unit off using the button, it's then ready to switch on when needed.
 
 
 

 Cheers for the tip Gemma, I'll try that....

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