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Wot Trainer


Phil 9
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Check the location of the control rod tubes in the manual and the plane before installing as mine were incorrect and I did not notice until after I had installed the rods and could not work out why they seemed back to front. You may also need to undo the screw a little that holds the control rods in the fuselage by the servo tray to allow the rods to move free. I also found that the rods very very tight and the servos buzzed when trying to move which is not good.
 
The servo that controls the throttle is a little to close to the the control rod exit so use the thinner wire for the steering control as the larger rod is too stiff in the pipe
 
Next check the balsa on the side of the fuselage by the tail as mine was split and I have replaced it.
 
At my club our trainer took it up for the first time and he loved it but on landing he ripped off the undercarrage on a light landing and there was quiet a bit damage so I would suggest getting some nylon nuts and bolts and drilling throught the metal undercarrage leg between the current bolt holes and using these bolts instead.
 
You may also need to cut down the wing tube a little by about 1inch to fit and use some wax on it as mine was very tight to fit then might be a good idea to epoxy the wings together but that depends if you have the space to carry them joined.
 
Next check the rear wing is straight as the small bolts do not have enough power to hold it as to tighten them enough started to warp the tail fin so you might want ot epoxy this straight but this may cause more work if you crash it.
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Thanks Michael.
 
There are a couple of these at my club and the people who have them all say its a great flyer. But two have lost the U/C as you did. I plan to add a layer of glass cloth around the U/C mouting blocks. but nylon bolts also sounds like a good idea.
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Oh is there an option for sepeate aireron servos or is does require some modification.
 
If there is a prefabricated space for a second wing servo I will be very tempted to use it. But if this requires cutting a new hole and adding a mount then one will be used.
 
This would be usefull info to know as I still need to order the servos
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Yes Timbo I have seen the manual too it only shows 4 servos needed. My confution comes from the stats quoted on the ripmax web site. ripmax
 
Must be just an error
 
Specification
Wingspan:1710mm (67.3in)
Length:1280mm (50.4in)

Weight:2.6kg (5.7lbs)
Radio System:4 Channel with 5 servos

Electric Motor:KMS Quantum 4120/05
LiPo:Impulse 4 Cell 4000/4800mAh

S/C Rec:KMS Sentry 60
IC Engine:.40-.46 Two Stroke
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 Re mods to the 'Wot Trainer.........I found that the wing-joining tube wasn't too long, it was just a very tight fit in one wing-half.  I measured it all up, and it does fit,with a bit of persuasion. I epoxied the wings together,feeling it to be a sensible mod. I also glued on the tail surfaces,and internally reinforced the undercarriage mount,and engine firewall,with fibreglass cloth and resin. Finally,get rid of the wire control rods, and fit bowden cable in their place, the rods are far too stiff. My has been flown regularly for about 18 months,and is still unmarked. An excellent model,all-weather and nicely aerobatic,you'll love it.............Mal.
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I have not flown mine yet as our trainer flew it for me and crashed it on a dead stick landing. Same thing with my Raptor SE titan that was also crashed on its maiden by our heli trainer.
 
Seems anything I build seems to crash on its maiden even though I have been told I build them very well.
 
 
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Link  Wot T 1  Photos
 
Link  Wot T 2  Photos
 
 
A couple of the photos in the manual are reversed, and show the tail controls the wrong way round.
 
There are factury pre-drilled holes for dowl rods, for banding the wings.  You can feel them under the covering.
 
If your unlucky enough to get a 1st generation example - double check everthing !
 
BB
 
 

Edited By Basildon Biggles on 05/04/2010 12:27:15

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Thanks for the tips guys
 
Sorry about your models Michael that is bad luck.
 
I cant wait to get my new model now. I have also ordered 4 Spektrum DS821 Digital STD Servo. Maybe a bit of an overkill for a trainer but they were not much more than standard servos
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 Hi again Phil B, I've just remembered another mod I did on the 'Wot'. As Michael says in his post,the throttle servo is too close to the former in the fuselage to get a smooth run to the throttle. I therefore used the throttle servo position as the rudder control,and then obviously used the rudder servo position to operate the throttle.I hope you can understand what I mean.I also fitted a bigger tank,and fuel-proofed the engine bay with fibreglass resin.A plain-bearing 40-46 size engine is ideal,mine flies beautifully on an OS 46 la...................Mal.
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Posted by Phil B on 05/04/2010 17:25:04:
oh What size tank did you get in?

 Hi, off-hand,I can't remember what size it is,it was the biggest that fitted easily,though I did have to hollow out the tank compartment cover slightly, it was probably about 8-10 oz..............Mal.

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Well i think even though my kit had just arrived in the shop that day which was only four weeks ago it must have been a 1st gen kit with the control rod tubes reversed.
 
I found many problems on my kit such as in my post above. My tank was a 200cc but I put a 270cc in but you could get a 300cc in there.
 
To be honest I should call ripmax and point out all the problems I had!!
 
 
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I got my WOT Trainer delivered yesterday and started putting it together.

And the model seems to be the latest version as it has no needle cut out in the nose. But the problems mentioned above are still not corrected.

The first job I did was to re enforce the U/C mounting blocks with glass cloth. I and trying to build with tricycle U/C but I re enforce both blocks just in case together with the nose leg support. I also cut the wing joiner to make it easier to fit.

The supplies control rods are still very stiff. I did use the thinner control rod for the throttle and put the thicker one in for the steerable nose wheel. But it is so tight I have to force it to move. Also the rudder and elevator are still connected the wrong way round so the rod for the steerable nose leg is lined up to the elevator servo.

I have bought some Sullivan snakes but I am having trouble feeding them through.
Any tips guys?

I have added some protrim to decorate it a bit. The model is a little plane standard it will also help me with orientation and mark my model out from the other WOT Trainers at my club.
 
Another problem with the kit is the rods on the tail fin where damaged and would not take the nut that secures it on.
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Sounds like the same problems I had, My tail fin threads were also damaged and the nut would not hold so best to remove the film a little and epoxy the tail and rear wing in place but check it is all square first.
 
Have you tried undoing the control rod nut a little in the body by the servo tray where the rods come through and allowing the rods to settle that helped me with my rods.
 
I found my CG was spot on but some people have found it to be a little forward and needed to use weight in the tail.
 
I found it best to set it as a tail dragger as the nose wheel is a little weak as well as pointing the nose down a little to much for me when on all three wheels allowing the prop the catch to dirt/grass
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I did try undoing the control rod nut but still could not get them to swap over. It would not matter if I used the tail dragger set up.

The nose leg is a little shorter than the main U/C making the nose point down.

I am determined to build it as a tricycle even though I know it will probable get converted as soon as the front leg gets bent.

I am going to replace the nose leg with a longer one.

As for the tail I want to avoid gluing it in if I can. The ability to strip the model down for transport in its own box is very useful for me. I am replacing the wire with some M3 push rods that have a threaded end
 
I shall post some photos soon
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  • 3 weeks later...

Then I needed to replace the wire on the tail so I could use the theaded end without gluing it in.
 
 
 

I replaced the U/C with a carbon one from carbon copy and mounted it with nylon bolts. It is a little wider from standard so I m hoping more stable. (but in reality a carbon U/C is probably OTT)
 
 
 
The nose leg was replaced with a longer one and an extra brace was added for strength
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