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Building TN Halifax


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Hi, not too much really
 
Ive pressed the formers out for the fuse but need to make the 2 fuse sides and begin assembly from there.
 
A few distractions at the moment .  To be honest I tend to avoid building on nice days (ie better to get out and fly ,) but hoping to make some progress soon
 
 
Graham, did you get your kit ok at wings and wheels?? 
 
Craig 
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Hi Gentlemen.
 
Quite a simple question really. Would you say the TN Halifax could be built by a relative newcomer to kit building, given a no rush approach? I've built from kits before with some sucess, but not of this size/time investmest. 
Best regards to all,
Ian Whittaker.
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Ian,
 
I have built many  Tony Nijhuis models, and as I have built one of his
the Lancasters, so I will not be doing the Halifax.    The Halifax build is
virtually the same as the Lanc. Nothing really complicated.
 
Remember, this is a serious BIG HEAVY model, and needs thought on
transportation, and building facilities. If that's no problem, go for it  
 
Just take your time, as I'm sure you  will find plenty of help if needed
on this blog in the near future.
 
Terry 
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Hi,
 
I will probably also buy the complete pack for TN Halifax. Thanks for this new thread wich will be really helpfull for all of us.
 
I am hesitating buying the wood pack also. has someaone already recieved it? Is it good quality wood?
 
Anyways, great tailwheel Greg!
 
Michel
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Hi Ian,
 
Ditto terrys post. 
 
The most complicated model I have built was Tonys Airbus.  Before this I only had a couple of basic models under my belt  (such as Nigel Hawes, Fizza, Eze fan etc).
 
I remember when I started the Airbus  thinking it was a bit of a leap but actually if you take your time you will be amazed. 
 
The trick I found was to break the build down into logical processes with loads of "coffee pondering moments" . 
 
Having Tonys build article to hand and following that is a must.
 
Plus once the thread gets going you will be able to see how other modellers approach each task so that will be a massive aid in its own right.
 
Hope you decide to give it a go.
 
Aerts, Ive got the woodpack and it came from SLEC.  I've found them to be very good (they provided the airbus parts).  On the halifax when I pressed the fuz formers out they did warp a bit but I understand thats normal once they become relived from the sheet.  Nothing major though, you'd probably get the same thing happen no matter who does the CNC cutting.
 
Regards
 
Craig
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Mario, I had a good hard look at the Halifax too, but with the DC3 not quite finished (painting and fitting out ) and the Dh103 Hornet on the build board, I , err the SWMBO, suggested, NO, 2 not finished is enough, so I will watch and help if needed , but one day I will
Grand choice 
A.A.Barry 

Edited By A.A. Barry on 05/07/2010 14:08:08

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Hi guys

Last night I was posting a big text to answer Ian, when, like other times before, after click the Add Posting button, appears one window telling I must login and I'm logged and all the text disappear.

Like we said in Portugal “who have friends don't died in jail" and today Terry wrote one post telling almost exactly the same I want to tell Ian.

Craig your approach is quite convincing too.

Just want to reinforce the fact that in this thread will appear a good deal of information that everyone is able to use, with the exchanging of ideas and methods of course we all achieve a good ending for ours buildings.

Thank you Barry you're very kind.

Ian and Michel welcome to the Halifax builders community.

Regards

Mário

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Mario, if only one thing I have learnt from selecting multi 4st engines, don't buy or mix and match them, the best by a "country mile for reliablity and starting" is OS, get them all new and run them in per the book, that way YOU are confident that that part of the build is correct, set all things the same, tank sizes and there make, all the throttle exists are the same position, use new fuel tubing.
buy new servos, not cheapys, but middle of the cost range, wiith the srevo leads, get good quatily thicher than those chinese ones, and if it calls for long ones, buy them long, less plugs the better, get new ball joint inks and new rods, don't use anything you have that looks "suspect" yes it will be a cost, BUT, it will out way picking up the bits and trying to sort through WHAT went wrong
that's how you do it
Barry  

Edited By A.A. Barry on 06/07/2010 11:59:00

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Hi to all,
 
Thanks Mario for the welcome.
 
Well I have  just ordered the complete set now, so I hope I will be helpfull in this thread... even if I must admit I am not a fast builder. Not much time so I take it  easy , especially during summer with the beautiful weather we have now in Belgium.
 
Anyways I wait for the parts now and hope to see some nice buiding pics soon.
 
Best regards to all
 
 
Michel
 
 
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 Jack,
 
Your question, " What is the diameter of the amin wheels" 
'amin wheels' ???? ......was this a typo, and should have read
"main wheels"  If it was maybe one of you guys with a plan can
give Jack the  answer. 
 
 
Guys,  
 
As  Jack lives in Canada, he was a great source of information on the Canadian Lysander. with fantastic  detailed photographs, and could be
a helpful man to this Halifax  blog.
 
Best of luck Jack, sorry you can't share my Newcastle Brown.   .
  
Terry 

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 07/07/2010 08:03:59

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HI,
I have just a few comments to Tony's plan:-
The wing span is incorrect as the version modelle has square wing tips the span at 1/12 scale should be 99" only the later versions of the BIII and the BVI & BVII and the A &C VIII & IX withe extended rounded wing tips had a 104' (103' 8" ) span.
The bomb doors are LANCASTER bomb doors. The Halifax had a grand total of 20 bomb doors, 8 in the fuselage mounted as 2 sets of 4 inner and outer doors where the inner set rotated up behind the outer and 3 sets of 2 doors in each inner wing section.
I can understand why Tony didn't use flaps on the model as the inner engine nacelles reach to the wing trailing edge and the outer section is apart of the flap and rotatesinto the front section, this would require probably some complicated compound curve litho plate work t keep the scale look.
But other than tha it apears to be a great model and I am going to buy it and build it (electro) as the plane my father flew in as a tail gunner with 578 Sq.  
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Hi all! 
Just received two rarge large brown wrapped parcels, containing what i think is the most balsa i've seen outside of a large model shop, and a rather large quantity of CNC cut ply. The plans and vac pack are awaited with eagerness! 
I suppose i ought to start making some space to build!
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Hi guys
My complet set that I order one month and a half ago haven't come yet.
In a way is good, because I have all the time to fly this calm and hot summer, and maybe those who received the pack are now studying and reviewing processes to help us laters.
In other side I begin to be a little impatiente because I'm very courious about what going there.
Welcome also to you Gordon, and hope that your building, that have a very sentimental part added, works quite well.
Regards
Mário
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Ian,
 
Remember your "no rush approach" and  Craig's
 " coffee pondering moments" ( I really  like that phrase).
 
If I was about to build this model I would first visit the Tony Nijhuis
site and print out his 8 page Halifax build guide, and number them.
It will find it far easier to follow than the magazine.
 
Have a Craig CPM  and spend some time with the guide and
 plan to familiarise yourself with all the CNC conponents,
 
Have fun. 
  
Mario,  I think we has some of your Poruguese weather here in the UK

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 09/07/2010 15:14:46

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Thank you Graham,
 
When I receive a lot of wood such as a CNC pack I like to let it acclimatize to the conditions in my work shop for a week or so. I think this helps to avoid warping when you free the laser and routed pieces from their sheets.
 
Jack, Toronto.
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