Tony Major DH Mosquito

[Craig Spence]

Barry, as I said before I think if I did this build again I would do the flaps as you have. Very well thought out I must say and those hinges are perfect for the application.

As for the doors I'm going for a pulley system, another couple of servos wouldn't fit my receiver, 6 channels.
I have had help on the system although I can see myself struggling with it, mainly the spring which keeps them open.
The pulley wires themselves should be a dodle but well see, another challenge me thinks.

How are you mounting your aileron servos and also how did your kit turn out?, I had alot of double parts in there, used them for scrap in the end.
I had four firewalls along with many other doubles.

[A.A. Barry]

Craig, as for the kit, all of the parts where there, but in my opinion, the wood was too soft in a lot of parts, where as the ply most had to be completely cut through, some parts that I feel should have been there, where not, as I already had the Fuz ( f/g), that in it self was a huge process the mount onto the wing, but it is now done

Yea I'm pretty happy the way the flaps work, alerions hinging work out OK too the servos are located in the outer wing, mini's Hitec 225bb, I drive/mount all my alerions in the wings that way there is a straight push pull operation, no slop

[Craig Spence]

I agree Barry, one area with the kit I was annoyed with was the fuz, it never had alot if parts cut which should have been.
Especially the ply parts and tail mounts.

But it's cheap so what do we expect, learnt slot from the build so far. I've just got standards in the wing and there very tight.

[A.A. Barry]

I am not going the "whole hog " on this I have a Hornet to finish that way, as I call it a "sunday Flyer", my Fuz is 1/2" fatter and a latter MK, so the canopy ( the one you are using ) does not fit so I have ordered another the Mk with a 2 piece ft. screen., it was a bit stupid of me to start the build before I got the wood kit cause when I studied the old plans 1 sheet , the wing, was B/T 71"and the Fuz , which also has the tail feathers on it , was B/T 81", never noticed it before, so now I have fin rudder and tailplane built all for a 81": model, any body wants they are free.

30yrs I have carted those 2 mismatched plans around. how stupid

barry

Edited By A.A. Barry on 20/10/2011 13:56:09

[Craig Spence]

May attempt the 81" in the future Barry depending on how this turns out. As I've said previously I'm having a right mare with the exhaust system, I will get it sorted but will take time to get bits and bobs.

[Danny Fenton]

I am sure there is still time to swap in a couple of brushless motors Craig, the exhausts are fairly stright forward on them

[A.A. Barry]

Danny, lol's but some of us still prefer I.C.

Barry

[A.A. Barry]

Craig just say the word and I will send them to you

Barry

[A.A. Barry]

Craig did you sheet the bottom of the wing before sheeting the nacelle sides??????

Barry

Edited By A.A. Barry on 20/10/2011 15:15:47

[Craig Spence]

Hi Barry, yeah sheeted lower wing first then the nacelle sides.
I thought that was how its supposed to be done?.
Most other people building this have done it the same way although it's funny as they are all first time scale builders who I talk to.

Maybe we read the plan wrong.

[A.A. Barry]

Yea I did that way too, and I think it is right cause you have a base to sheet the nacelle tothe other the nacelle sheeting is stuck out in nowhereland

Barry

[Craig Spence]

Yeah I think it's right, not just for the sheeting though.
The formers have to sit on the lower sheeting for the correct height as well, not that it would make a tremendous difference.

The only nacelle formers which have to be cut down are the inner ones as you know.

It's still a bugger to sheet though, pinching the ends in is hard and leaves a gap as I said before after the flap.

The other thing is holding it in place, I'd try to shape the sheeting first to conform to the curves or it springs away from the formers.

I used thin super glue for this and it was still a pain. I think you will probably be fine though as you have the ply there which will give some stiffness to the formers.

Glassing this was also a pain for me, but one thing at a time eh.

I think at the rate your building you will have it finished before Xmas. What colour scheme are you going for?.
Are you doing the invasion stripes?.

If your going for simplicity I'd go for the night fighter paint scheme or the yellow one, or better yet there was also a racer one which was red.

[A.A. Barry]

Well I have usedpolyoeathane foam on the nacelle rear, sheeting stops at N7, that elimated pinching in the balsa, wthich will be given a light F/Glass cloth coat, and then sealed again when the final cloth and glue is applied all over, going to use DElux Ezecoat stuff. there is no need for any strength there just shape.

Colour sceme:- being the Aus, distibutor of Warbird Colors, I have a choice of paints, and one that doesn't move very quickly is PR Blue, so I think that will be the colour ( top) and Mid sea Grey on the bottom, there is only invasion strips on the rear fuz so that's not too bad

Xmas, I hope so, this was supposed to be quick build but I should have known being a B.T design, it would take longer.

I am just sheeting 1 of the nacelles now, and it is working out fine, 1 piece of med 1/16 x 3" is a good fit, the plan says 3/32 but I didn't think that size is needed and besides the cloth and glue will add strength anyway, I don't think there is much weight saving, just easier

Yes like you glassing is messy and fiddly, I am hoping that this Delux stuff is the way to go, write-ups say it is simple and easy to sand, I will find out myself later

Barry

[Craig Spence]

Good job using the foam, yourl be keeping the weight down behind the CofG. I did foam tops at the rear on mine as well and it has made a difference.
I did two layers of cloth on the foam as well, but next time I think I'll just go with heavier cloth.

That easekote looks great stuff, however I have been warned of the following things. It runs a he'll of a lot, so if it's near control surfaces they better be well vasilened.
It's quite rubbery so catches when you sand.

But I've never used it, just hear say.

Blue?, on top, don't think I've seen that yet, got any pics?.

I did the same with the sheeting and 1/16th is fine for the nacelles, I wouldn't fancy bending 32nd round that, That would be a planking job.

I changed alot of the wood thicknesses, I think some are too heavy and some too light ( thickness, sorry).

[A.A. Barry]

Yea got a lot of pic's but only a side veiw of the Photo Rec. one, is not so much blue it's almost a dark grey

what do mean by " It''s quite rubbery so catches when you sand." ???

Barry

[Craig Spence]

Oh ok I get it, should look good. A few guys at my club said that when they tried sanding it, it kept getting stuck.

I don't know how they do it but with glass I rub down dry and then wet.

[Danny Fenton]

Don't forget you can use a polyester fabric as peel ply. eliminates the flow coat and all that sanding........ Skip the glass first half and watch the peel ply application which is the second half.

 

[Craig Spence]

Still to try that Danny, looks good though.
Did you ever use a breather layer?.

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Craig, my understanding is that a breather layer is used when vac bagging glasswork. No I haven't tried it, I think vac bagging might be too powerful for my sort of stuff. Great for glassing foam core wings. I have heard of even foam cored items being crushed.

 

Cheers

Danny

[Craig Spence]

Oh that's right Danny, it's only used for vac bagging. I never knew they were that powerfull. Surly people have been over baking them?, suck the air out and no more, but then I suppose there's air in the wing.

[Craig Spence]

Two pilots are now completed.
Cockpit wise there's alot to do, I have to do drawings of the instrument panel, my LMS is going to laser cut me control panels from 1/2mm plastic sheet. All I have to do after that is glue the dials behind the cut outs and hey presto.
Looking forward to that.

I may sand and seal there chairs and panels tonight, then paint them up.
I'm sort of leaning back towards the fuz now.

I may trial fit the wing whilst glassed to gauge the fit and then set about doing some fuselage detailing.
I'm torn between that and sanding the wing down for priming.
Alot of work to do on the wing.

[Craig Spence]

Well. avoided the wing last night and got on with some fuselage detailing.

 

I thought id add elevator tabs, I had cut slots for them previously but the glass and resin filled them no bother. Point to note for the future.

Still have to fashion an upper and lower tab link for them.

 

The panel line tape should give the impression/ illusion of elevators.

 

Same again with the rudder, I have to make a link for this as well.

 

The door under the siffener, once painted I will blob some glue dots on the lower half to simulate latches.

 

The dinghy hatch, I have doubled up the outer edge and made some raised bits. This is as plan.

Again once painted I will make some rivits and then paint again.

 

Starboard access door with little handle on it.

 

After debating with myself at 02:00 in the morning I decided to cut open the cockpit opening at the front, this will give a better view of the instrument panel once installed.

The pilot and navigator are very close in here, this is turning out to be a bit of a bonus for me (maybee not for others) as I wont have to worry so much about the sides of the cockpit.

 

The armour plate extending from the windscreen, this has been cut where it meets the hatch. The hatch has been split (as it opened as two parts) with panel line tape, this tape extends through the whole nose cone.

 

Here are the blisters above the wing, now on the plan it shows these as quite raised but after looking at my research photos I dont think they would be that high at all at this scale.

Time and paint will tell.

 

 

Here is the panel line tape through the nose. Once painted and tape removed I will apply tiny blobs of PVA along each side as this had screws/ rivits.

 

The bit I was more afraid of, belly detailing. The circle will stand out once painted and the the panel line tape should do the job for simulating another panel. I did contemplate doing another flight metal panel but getting round the curves would be tricky.

 

You can also see here that the two forward cannons are out of alignment, im hoping the paint will mask it a bit better.

 

Around the cannons was raised panels as well, this flight metal helps for alot of applications, I was going to do these with P38.

These may be rivited although I think they will be too small to notice.

 

Again the panel line tape, great stuff so far, lets see how it does with paint on it, I think they may be a mare to remove. Ill have to lift an edge with a scalpel in places.

 

 

 

So I think im ready for another coat of primer. Ill post more pics later, cheers all.

 

Craig.

[Craig Spence]

Primed the fuselage again yesterday and I must say I'm quite impressed.
The flight metal/ alloy foil has worked very well, although it doesent stand out as much as I'd like in some areas. I'll leave those areas though until I have the final colour on to see how they look.

The panel line tape is very good as well, it doesent leave a great impression but again once the final coats are on it will look very nice.

I also did some PVA rivets last night, not true to scale as they are screws but they will leave a good impression.

One thing I have noticed is that the alloy tape scratches easily, I'm hoping with a few more coats this will be ok, especially with the satin fuel proofer.

I'm leaving the cockpit and canopy till last, hope this works out.

Q; Should I put the light grey on the bottom of the fuselage first or the dark grey on the top?. I was thinking light first so I can easily cover it over with the next line.

I'll take some pics later and show the progress made.

Cheers, Craig.

[Craig Spence]

So, im back to work tomorrow, but ill show you the progress so far with a few pics.

 

Im only back for one week next time as well so ill have to crame two weeks in to one or im not gonna get much done.

 

The dinghy hatch primed.

 

Panel line tape removed giving a "hopefully" split hatch effect.

 

Panel tape removed and rivets in place.

 

Starboard access door.

 

Again panel line tape removed and rivets added, a few minor problems, the tape leaves hair like stringers sometimes, easily sanded away with 1000grit or covered over by weathering.

 

The cannon ports look a bit rough but I intend to do these up with black chars.

 

 

Here it is with the lighter grey in place, really helps to show off the detail although I dont think many would appreciate the detail until there very close up.

 

 

 

Thought the rivits on the nose wouldent show through because of thier size but there fine.

 

Lighter grey on the elevators as well.

 

 

Well was a total pleasure doing this part of the job, cant wait to get the other colours on and get stuck into the wing.

 

Cheers all, speak in two weeks.

[A.A. Barry]

Craig, I am onto the U/c doors, what method have you used and do you have a pic ( close up) of the hinging, they really "try"me ??????????????????

Many thanks

Barry