Tony Major DH Mosquito

[Craig Spence]

Danny, the wheels are Radioactive 4" code AA1213.
You could probably go a little bigger.

[Danny Fenton]

Thanks Craig will look for some 5" ones. they look like they have a good shape.

 

Cheers

Danny

[Craig Spence]

Hi all,

had a lesson in IT lol, never again with you tube and google chrome, nuff said.

 

Heres a few vids.

 

 

and another.

 

 

There a little off to each other but its a very hard fiddle to get right, plus once they are the way gravity intends they do deploy around the same time.

May be a little more work here. Also the uplocks are near impossible to get working with the movement of the servo, airs the way to go in future.

[Danny Fenton]

Well done Craig, Have you checked they have raised the wheel high enough to clear the doors?

I was going to ask if it worked as well when the wing is the right way up but you have answered that

 

What servo have you used, seems to have plenty of power for the task and not too large a footprint?

 

Cheers

Danny

[Craig Spence]

Hi Danny, I don't think there's gonna be a problem there, I am going to have to scale down my wheels though to fit in the doors.
At present they sit too high and there's nothing I can do about it, I certainly wouldn't use a bellcrank with this set up as it would simply snap off.

The servo is inexpensive, supertec S136GH from JP, low profile.
Has a lot of power, but I would seriously use air if you have the option. You will get complete travel with air, at the moment I am only getting full up and 3/4 s down.
The retract goes all the way down but there's still a 1/4 left to move to engage the uplock.

And yes like you said it operates better right way up, gravity puts less stress on the servo the other way around.

Cheers Craig.

[Craig Spence]

Well got one nacelle semi sheeted last night. What a mess lol.
There slightly miss shaped with low lying areas, I think I can use some more balsa to fill things like that but there are other problems.

I have had to down size my wheels from 4" to 3.5", 4" was the smallest I had on plan and even at 3.5" I think they may be too big for the doors to close.
I really don't want to go to 3", it will look daft.

The retracts fit both the 81" model and the 71" model, they can't be changed now.
I may have to raise The doors by 5mm or something, this wouldn't be too noticeable I think and would cover the wheel or extend the inner doors with glass so they meet at a higher angle.

Need help here, thoughts please from anyone that's reading.
I'll post pics later.

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Craig, I am afraid this sounds like where the modelling has to kick in and you have to figure it out. You need to look for every little thing that is stopping you get a mm, add all those mm's up and you will get there. The problem is you are a little off the mainstream, if it was a Taylor design there would be many experienced forumites that may be able to help. I am not sure there are so many that have built this version.

All I can say is keep chewing away at it and be prepared to think outside the box, and if need be tear it all apart again There are no short cuts sometimes. I wish I could help further, keep posting pics you never know somebody may come up with a pearl of wisdom as VA did with the flaps on my Spitfire.

 

Cheers

Danny

[Craig Spence]

Blue foam dust, slithers of wood and plenty of hard graft lol.
One nacelle nearly complete, post pics tomorrow.

Cheers for the advice Danny, I used slithers of wood and blue foam, it's not perfect but some lightweight filler should cover up the worst of it.

Oh and Danny, it is a Taylor plan, just when I started the thread I was looking at a Tony major kit.
I'd change the title but too late now.

Pics tomorrow and start on the other nacelle.

[Craig Spence]

Hi all,

pics as promised.

 

These are pretty random but basically its just one 1/16th sheet each side and then foam fairings and foam top of nacelle to save a little weight.

 

You can see a gap in this photo where the nacelle meets the flap, this will be sorted easily later.

Also I have left a support in the wheel well to keep everything in place until glassed, there is not much room for the retracts to pass so I will have to carve out after glassing.

 

this is obviously just rough at the moment, have to be carefull where foam meets wood because of the sanding qualities difference.

 

Here you see the hole a bit better, this is not that bad belive it or not lol, Ive seen worse and its easily fillable.

 

the other side fillit, which isnt that bad really.

 

Cheers all.

[Danny Fenton]

Looks great Craig, sorry I should have known this was a Taylor plan you probably said I have a rubbish memory, sorry.
Cheers
Danny

[Craig Spence]

No probs Danny, I have a question for you.
When it comes to glassing my wing, what's the best way to stop runs going into the control surfaces.
My ailerons/ flaps are already joined to the wing and are already glasses and painted, i don't want to bind my surfaces.

Cheers.

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Craig sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, been on family stuff today.

Keeping the resin out of the hinges is critical. I have in the past used a really fine silicone grease made by ROCOL and applied it with a toothpick, while operating the hinge. The stuff must get down inside the hinge. Be REALLY careful when you glass, and if any does get in hopefully it will come away fairly easily, and not penetrate. I did have one go solid on me once but forcing it to move it suddenly popped and freed right up. A big sigh of relief on that one I can tell you.

The best solution is to not fit the hinges permanently until the end but thats not always feasible.

 

PS another way I have done was to glass the area around the hinge points before the rest, that way the final glassing doesn't go near the hinges. Even if it means an awkward little bit of sheeting before the rest is done.

 

Cheers

Danny

[Danny Fenton]

Meant to say if you cannot use silicone, then try something like vaseline it should work, even a little oil for that matter.

 

If you use silicone don't get it anywhere near surfaces you intend to paint, ie don't leave fingerprints, it will fisheye like a good un with certain paints.

 

Cheers

Danny

[Craig Spence]

Hi Danny, thanks for help. I got a cyano run early on in the wing build and the flap got bound.
It took a big chunk off the inside of the flap. This will be getting attention later on in the build in the finishing process.

I've got plenty of vas so no problem there, I think I'm going to try this.
Vas the joints and surfaces as you said, then get some plastic (maybe petg) and butt it up against the trailing edge of the sheeting where its near the control surface, then chok it up hard with balsa.
This should ensure no run, plus it will give a nice clean edge.
If it's not clean it's easily tidied up.

Cheers Danny.

[A.A. Barry]

I have ciome into this thread late, nice work, , did the retracts come with the order and if so from where??.

I have looked several times at the web site, but have not come to a decision yet, what is the plan like???????altho I still haven't finished the DH103

A.A.Barry

[Craig Spence]

Hi A.A.Barry,
Thanks for the complement. I ordered the retracts from unitracts, there not cheap either lol.
They come as mechanical or pneumatic but the retracts themselves are exactly the same, the only difference is that the air set comes with pistons, cylinder, enough for air operation etc...

The plan is very good, lots of scale detail involved, however some of it is quite confusing and I had to reference other sites threads for help.

Have you got a thread for the DH103?.

If your going for the mossie, let me know and I'll give you a heads up of the tricky bits and things to consider.

Thanks for the interest, I dont get a great deal of feedback on here.

[A.A. Barry]

HI, Craig, yea I am interested I have been given a FSM 74" Mossie, the fuz is OK, but the wing is "total " , my thoughts are to build Tony Majors wing and "marry it up " to the FSM Fuz, so I have asked "Kit cutters " for his wing wood kit @ US $100.00, fair price?? but still waiting for an answer, to keep things simple I am going to put Electric retracts in it.

My DH103 is under "Scale Matters > DH103 " by A.A ........

Yes I seem to get more feedback on RCS (USA) site than on here, even my Whirlwind build didn't get a lot of suggestions in comparison....lots of "views " but.............??

Are you a UK local

A.A. Barry

[Danny Fenton]

I think the number of "builders" on this site is a lower percentage than on the other site you mention. Don't worry about it we are stil watching

I try and watch/monitor any trad building threads, but don't comment unless i think I have something constructive to add. I must confess to sometimes posting a well done cos I know how hard it can be to spend time compiling posts, and it is nice to know you are not on your own. Sort of an online builders club

 

Cheers

Danny

[A.A. Barry]

Thanks Danny for the confidence, perhaps a "Builders only " thread should be added???

Barry

[Craig Spence]

Hi A.A.Barry, I couldn't comment on the FSM model, but one thing I have learnt doing research for the model is this.
No plan designers are exactly the same, some have their wings mounted in different ways, some are two peice, one peice and the wing seats are different.

So you could go to all the effort of building the wing and then it doesrnt marry up, the other thing is that they are different scales so the extra work may not be worth it as the overall effect would be wrong.

I personally think that kit cutters may be a bit overpriced for the wing kit. With careful cutting and marking I think you could easily build the wing for 40 pound 50 max.

The traplet kit cost around ?70 when I got it and this is just formers etc.., you still need strip, sheet, spars etc...
I think this would be the way to go.As for electric retracts, I considered this but then dismissed it. Reason being is I wasn't sure about weight and the retracts locking out, but I am no means an expert.
The wing is heavy though and these retracts that I have lock down quite well.

I think I may be a bit biased thread wise, I think I monitor alot of threads but as said by Danny only comment if you can help or congrats.
The other thing is interest as well, danny's thread is brilliant, and it's a spit and everyone loves a spit. Plane appeal I suppose.

Yes I am UK as well.

Cheers.

[Craig Spence]

"I think the number of "builders" on this site is a lower percentage than on the other site you mention. Don't worry about it we are stil watching"

I agree Danny, although the main reason I take photos and do a thread is for reference and recording.

As for following other threads I also agree about commenting, as I said before as well it has to take your interest really.

Cheers Danny, hope to see yours up soon.
?

[A.A. Barry]

Craig, what plan is yours, I bought B T's 71"plan and moulded parts many yrs ago which I still have... but I hate cutting out ribs, the plan is yellow with age but readable, and it is a bit of an old fashion building process

Barry

Edited By A.A. Barry on 22/08/2011 12:25:59

[Craig Spence]

It's the Brian Taylor 71" plan bought from traplet.
The lazer cut wood kit is not bad either, however you may have to cut a few ply parts but not really a problem.

If your gonna go for it and you want the same retracts I'd give Tony at unitracts a ring as he may stop making them soon.
Also, build the wing first as this takes the majority of time and is quite frustrating the rest is quite enjoyable.

Cheers.

[A.A. Barry]

I am curious why the heading "Tony Majors mossie?????

[Craig Spence]

Hi Barry,
Initially when I was researching for a kit I thought I'd go with the Tony Major one.
After talking on here I decided otherwise as there are enough accessories for the BT design.
I'd like to change the title but don't think I can now.

Oh and sorry Barry, are you from the USA?, rude of me not to ask.

Cheers.