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Tony Major DH Mosquito


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Hi John,
 
thats too bad about the elevator, seems you may have had the same problem as me.
The photos should be quite easy to upload, if your strugling email me and ill try and give some guidance on it.
 
I can see the curve but just slightly I will have a look on my plan when I get home and see if it does the same on the plan.
 
Hope to see your photos soon and good luck with your elevator.
 
Craig.
 
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I am not sure whats happening with the elevators John and Craig, one of the things I do is to make the pockets that the piano wire is going into, slightly (only slightly) loose. Then I can fillit with epoxy. this allows me to clamp them level and the epoxy holds the position, filling any areas where the piano wire is not in direct contact with the balsa.
 
Or have I missed the point
 
Cheers
Danny
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No Danny, you have hit the nail on the head.  I beleive it's called KISS. I shall pursue making a hollow elevator, just for fun. It may be easier than carving a balsa block.
The inward curve of the nacelles is shown on the plan and is apparent on the 1/48 kit that I have.  This computer is running on borrowed time so I'll sign off for now and hope that I have not lost the York Photos.
John
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Thanks for that photo. I shall be going to Salisbury hall myself on the 19th September.  That's an interesting nose poking in from the right.  I'll take my tripod and take some long exposure shots.
I tried the japenese block plane that I got last week. Used on balsa it's awesome, paper thin shavings just like proper wood! Great for shaping the various parts on aircraft.
John
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Hi all,
 
well I got back on Tuesday and got straight back into it, which hasnt pleased the wife alot lol!.
I built the frame for the fuselage last night and some parts of the plan are not clear especially around the nose area and formers used.
Anyhow I sussed it out and and plodded on, at about 2 o' clock this morning I only had the frame done and normally remove this from the board to store untill I can sheet.
 
BIG MISTAKE LOL!, I will never do this again lol!,when i removed it the whole fus srung out of shape, this was because of the various curves and to top it off I ripped the plan.
So I had to work fast to re - pin it to the board and I will now plank it today at some point.
 
I am a bit confused as to where I will be putting my Elevator and rudder servo, and also reciever and battery. It sais on the plan that the receiver and battery are in the nose which wouldent be a problem but where do I put the tail servo's? strange, it shows a crank for the servos to connect to, I hope that they are not in the wing!.
 
Anyone got anything for this?.
 
Cheers all, Ill send a pic soon.
 
Craig.
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Hi Craig, burning the midnight oil again eh?
 
Brian often leaves the positioning of the servos for you to decide. Different people like to do things in different ways I guess.
 
I get the feeling from the bigger one (I have puzzled over servo positioning too) that they fit in the fus where the wing also sits, but because it is only the spars and some structure that goes through the fus it doesn't impede the rudder and elevator (and retract) linkages.
 
I will dig the bigger plan out later and see if i can remember how i had it figured out.
 
Also the bigger one definitely has to be sheeted BEFORE removing from the plan. Also the entire cockpit area is also sheeted (and glassed) before cutting open once the halves are joined. Its a very weak area while under construction. I am not sure if this applies to the smaller one.
 
Cheers
Danny
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Okay curiosity got the better of me and I have dug out the larger drawings. You are quite right Craig, how the heck do you do the linkages. Brian shows the servos for the back end sitting in the fus, between the leading edge sections. The pushrods are travelling OVER the wing. This means disconnecting the pushrods to take the wing off???? this can't be right. I will investigate, I know a man that will know.........
 
For those following on and not knowing what we are talking about here is the relevant section of the plan (81" version)
 
 
 

Cheers
Danny
 
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Hi Danny,
 
thanks for the help again mate. Well Im taking it that the elevator and rudder servo are mounted on the bottom of the wing?, this would be fine as there is a hollow there and also a hatch to cover it.
I think ill have the receiver in there and have the battery in the nose.
 
I have started the planking job and its going .... er, well its going lol!.
Its not the best but I have planned ahead and got thicker sheeting so I can sand out the bad, but well see. I have noticed the curves are very deep and you can pull the fus half off the board when bending and glueing, due to this the kettle has been on constant and im bending the planks, hopefully the end result will look good.
 
Cheers Danny,
 
Craig.
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Hi craig, you could use teh 71" model techniques for the control surfaces, or use smaller modern servos in the wing. cisconnecting the linkages for every trip to and from the field sounds like a recipe to miss one off!  The build for the larger model sounds like how the original was constructed, two complete halves.
I shall be sending the photos out next week, if you want some can you send me a message with your address please.
John
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Hi John,
 
yeah the model techniques look good, im still not keen on removeing and attaching the links but we will see how it works out nearer the time.
Im also not keen on cutting out the ribs at the front for the cockpit, once you build it you will see what I mean, It doesent instill confidence lol!.
 
Id love to take some photos off of you John, cheers mate.
 
I would download a pic of my fus half planked but I cant find the camera lol!, this may be a blessing untill both sides are joined and sanded.
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Hi all,
 
well after a good bit of head scratching ive decided to put the elevator and rudder servo in here. Its behind the CofG but I have to compromise somewhere due to the structure of the plane.
 
Note the picture shows the control link for the rudder and tailwheel, this is the only thing I can think of that would work well without adding any weight.
 
Basically I will solder another rod onto the rudder controll rod and have it bent through to the tailwheel, any thoughts on this?.
 

NOTE; this picture is not scale.
 
Cheers all.
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So I have a few pictures now, the camera was stoared away somewhere daft.
 
The planked fuselage.
 

You can see here slightly marked in pen the area where I will be mounting the tail servos, and below the opening which will be made into a hatch when the two halfs are joined.

 
Cut outs in the tail formers for linkages to pass through.
 

I thought id take a break from the building and do something a little simpler, there not perfect but will look good when fitted hopefully. What would you paint these with, acrilic?, and would they be matt black?. 


Thats it for now, I will be doing a little more work tonight and will make a start on the other half soon, once the servo's and links are installed I will join the two halfs and I cant wait.
However I would love to sand it all down at that point but I will resist until I have built the rest of the plane, this is so I can get everything perfect.
 
Cheers all.

 


 
 

Edited By Craig Spence on 05/09/2010 10:42:04

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Hi all,
 
right whilst I always mull things over in my head I was wondering if anyone could share there experience in makeing panel lines and raised rivits.
 
Now ive heard lots of info from other sites but would like to know if anyone can share thier experience.
 
The panel lines I would like to create would be raised and also two meeting panels which would be rivited to the frame but not overlaped.
I would also like to do raised rivits and fabric lines.
 
Any help people?, also does anyone know where I can get some (elertroset I think was the name) decals, the ones that you rub on, not water transferable or stickers.
 
Cheers all.
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Hi all,
First a major disaster with the photos. I spent hours transfering them to disc, so I thought. When I put the disc in the drive it said "insert a disc". All 4 are the same.
plan b is to try writing some more using the laptop.
plan c is to use small memory pens.
plan z is to throw the PC in the Trent and buy a slab of stone and a hammer and chisel.!!
 
Second.
Panel lines, be careful here as aircraft builders were careful to avoid panel joins that show from more than a few feet.  I would suggest that a hint of the join is shown using a mapping pen or fine draftsmans pen filled with amix of the base colour and Paynes Grey. Then just rule the panel lines on to the finished area, you can dot rivets in the same manner.  Remember that details like these are not that apparent even on full size aircraft. How many panel lines and rivets can you see on the chopper that takes you back and forth to the rigs?
 
regards
John M
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Hi John,
 
thats too bad about the photo's but im sure you will come up with a solution, my computer is very slow and does what it wants to from time to time, Ive had to replace the disc drive myself before as it wouldent even open.
 
I think your best bet is to download them onto your memory stick and use another computer (maybe a friends).
 
Thanks for the heads up on the panel lines as well john, I think that some are a must and others you would never see. The ones I will be consentrating on are the cowls and some on the main wing, the ribs marks in the tailplane are bearly noticeable so ill be giveing them a miss all except for the rudder which will be doped and tissued.
 
The panel lines are getting less daunting now as I have been told about some material that scale modelers use, I think its called litho plate.
It comes from printing factories or shops and it feathers down quite well.
 
The rivits are going to be PVA blobed on with a syringe I have been told that this works well with practise.
 
 As for the detail of the chopper that comes to the rig, I actually see it quite well, this is because im normally 100ft up in the derrick lol!.
 
Cheers John.
 
hope the pictures work out well.
 
Craig.
Craig.
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