Ton van Munsteren Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 Towlie, Which model are you planning on weathering. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towlie Posted January 12, 2011 Share Posted January 12, 2011 Ton, Well just about to get started on a 34" il-2 Sturmovik from http://www.tdmsoftware.com/majewski/rcstuff/il2/IL2plans.asp Just have to get the pdf plans printed and then I can start as its Russian I am thinking it may need a fair bit of weathering to bring it to life. Towlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozmyk Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Ton, Your Beau looks great in the air and close up. Tell me, is that silver soldering you're using to make the undercarriage?Some of those retract parts look like they must have been made "in place". If so, how do you get those parts soldered in place without burning the wood? Koz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Koz, Thanks for the compliment . No silver soldering its all done with tin and a soldering iron and that works very nice. With most of my soldering point I try to have a mechanical fix first and soldeer the parts to hold it there. That reduces the force on the soldering so there is no silver needed. Have modified the gear already and am still not satisfied with the result so there will be more mods this winter. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozmyk Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 You DO surprise me. What flux and/or technique do you use to get ordinary solder to stick to the steel of piano wire? I could never get it to stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 I use S39 on piano wire which is very aggresive and when the metal is not cleaned afterwards with water is will start to rust. The soldeer I use is soft electronica soldeer. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 30, 2011 Author Share Posted January 30, 2011 Here is a photo and link for some more photos of the landinggear on my Siebel 201. Soldering also done with S39 and soldeertin and some koperwire to join the pinaowire before soldering. http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=43357&p=2 Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozmyk Posted January 30, 2011 Share Posted January 30, 2011 Thanks for that Ton. I've learned something new here. Before I believed that you had to use silver solder to solder steel. But, with the right flux, soft solder will work too.All these years and I never knew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 That looks superb Ton - up to your usual high standards Look forward to seeing her in the air as I'm sure you do. Edited By David Ashby - RCME Administrator on 31/01/2011 08:23:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 Kozmyk, Glad to be of help. David, Thanks Iam doing my best the beau looks great in the air and makes me want to have a little bigger one with a span of 1600mm. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Posted by mal brewer on 01/10/2010 21:17:02: Hi Ton, thanks for the link, I will have a go at uploading some pics tomorrow. In answer to your question, the model is built from a plan which was published in 'Scale Models' magazine about 12 years ago, and is still available from RCME plans service. I had a bit of fun moulding the canopies for the cockpit and observers positions. Yes I agree with you about electric power, but I actually like messing about with,dare I say it, 'proper' engines, anyway its nice to live a bit dangerously, don't you think ? I'll try and upload the pics, here's hoping......................Mal. Hi Mal I've got the John Deacon Beaufighter as well, originally intended for 2x10FPs but which will be electrified with a couple of 450 sized outrunners. Could I be cheeky and ask if you have still got the mouldings for the cockpit canopy and observers position if you could put up a picture of those as well? The canopy on mine is a bit of a dog's breakfast and I could really do with carving a new plug to make a better job of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 And finally a vdo . Don't look at the date that wasn't set right , the vdo was made with a keychaincam fixed to my sunglasses , to me its not all that bad. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raymond Richards Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Well almost done, just the exhausts , radiators and oil coolers to carve.......running on the original speed 400 geared with a 3 cell 4200 mAh LIFE battery, balances perfectly on the recommended G of G. Still to fly, but the weather is improving all the time 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 26, 2016 Author Share Posted March 26, 2016 Raymond, thanks for the pics the Beau is looking great , love the color scheme. Enjoy the maiden and many many flights to come. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Beautiful pair of Beaus. I apologise to Ton for mistyping his name in a pm I also suggested to him to do A thread on his mouldings. They are lovely. Re soldering piano wire with soft solder First of all scour/rub with fine sand paper /wet or dry or steel wool. Wool is best as it doesn't leave as many scratches on the steel the idea to clean off any slight corrosion there may be .Next degrease with meths./ thinners / acetone . Next start applying the heat amd get it up to temp. Test by touching the solder to the work until it melts at atouch. Now dip the solder into your flux and apply to the joint keeping the iron in contact all the time. Allow the solder to flow and flood the joint. . While still molten wipe off any excess and smooth the joint. Use dry cotton or other natural fibre cloth.or wooden spatula. BEWAREplastic spatulas or synthetic cloth will melt to the joint.It is worth getting a small plumbers moleskin from the plumbers merchants for this. Also prepare you copper wire by scraping or dissoving off any laquer there may be on it..Even if there is no paint or laquer give it a wipe with the thinners. acetone or meths to degrease it. This should make things easier Good luck John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raymond Richards Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Getting there, it says on the plan. 'make from scrap" , so that' what I did !/ Just the exhausts to go,,,,ummmm tricky !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 John, No problem I hear it all the time, Ton or Tom is close enough for me to reply For the mouldings as mentioned in the pm, thies are made in the vacum parts which came with the kit, so much easier than making your own mould. Thanks for the tip on the soldering. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 Very nice work Raymond. Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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