Ads Posted October 1, 2007 Share Posted October 1, 2007 Anyone built the Triple Threat 2 from the free plan in RCME. I've finished all the balsa bashing (almost) - still a bit to do with the pylon - been good fun so far. Would like to hear from anyone whose finished it. Any photos ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted October 4, 2007 Share Posted October 4, 2007 Hi - I built the Triple Threat 2 and flew it for the first time 2 days ago - its brilliant! My intention all along was for this to be a camera carrier and today I took aerial photos for the first time. I am a returner to the hobby after some 30 years and have been flying (electric) this time round for a year or so.Any specific help I can give you - please ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 Well done Colin Piccies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted October 5, 2007 Share Posted October 5, 2007 Thanks David - I'll get some pics sorted asap.Meanwhile, for anyone interested, I used a cheapie BM2409-12 motor from RCM Direct, a Towerpro MAG8 30A ESC, 8 cell 1600mAh Nimh and a 8"x4" prop and she has loads of power to spare. Mine weighed in at 28oz and shrugged off the extra 5oz of camera with hardly a drop in performance. I took the easy route and made flat bottomed wings but she floats around all the same and I am most happy. Endurance flights to come but I can see she is going to be up there for a while, 15 minutes yesterday with camera and there was stacks of battery to spare. I just had to get her down to check out what pictures I had taken. If anyone wants to get into this kind of thing cheaply, Tescos currently have a 3 megapixel Praktika camera for £35 - bargain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Hi all, I may have missed it, but I can't see the position of the Cof G on the plan, hang on I'm going to check again... ... nope, can't see it. Is the main spar a good starting point? looks about 30% of wing chord I'm still a couple of weeks away from maiden, I'm still cutting parts, I have the ribs, and spars ready, should complete a fus kit tonight. Then a week to build and a week to cover and fit out. Do you think a geared speed 400 will be ok on 7 cells? I "retired" my sig rascal a month ago so have spare drive train available. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Pat,an earlier post found the missing CG on the main spargood luck with the TT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 thank you Johnanyone got any photos of the finished article? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 See my photos in the gallery, been flying TT2 for a few weeks now - great model! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Thank you Colin, very nice. I might have to have a look at aerial photography myself, fantastic shots. Are you actuating the camera with a servo? Care to share some detailed photos?Ads are you up and running yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Hi Pat, sorry for the slow response. I am just going to upload a few more pics of the camera set up I have used for the TT2. Yes, it is operated by a servo fixed to the camera 'box' that I built out of 1/16th ply. The camera is held in the box by rubber bands to the pegs marked A on the photo and the whole thing is attached to the side of the pylon of TT2 by bands attached to the pegs B. A servo extension lead emerged from the starboard side to attach to the shutter servo, therefore the whole contraption can be easily removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 hoping this link works link to Colins photos I just noticed the icon that links to pictures next to the name of the poster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 thanks for the detailed photos Colin, very niceI'm definately going to give it a go myselfP.S. I'm Pat from the previous postings, I somehow ended up with 2 registrations, so I've dropped one to save my own confusion, the rest of you will have to bear with me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Freeman Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Hi all. Can anyone confirm that the C of G is definately on the main spar.It is not shown on the plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 I think this is a pretty core omission, mine isn't covered yet but I'm going for CG at the main spar. Colin can you confirm where you're balancing yours.I'm thinking there should be quite a large amount of adjustment available as this is based on a free flight design, I'm sure it will cope with 30mm either way. If the climb is really zoomy you could shift it forward. A lot depends on how accurately your pylon goes together, giving you the final incidence. It might be fun to trim it for free flight at say 2/3 throttle and then"interfere" with it with your radio.After a recent house move I've mislaid my covering iron which is most frustrating, I should be flying it today as the wind has dropped and I think we are going to get away with no rain until this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Freeman Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Thanks for that. Will try main spar for openers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Hi All,Just finished re-fitting out the shed, and was wondering what to build. I think you've solved my problem, and I'll let you know how it goes.Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted November 11, 2007 Share Posted November 11, 2007 Yup, can confirm that I've put the C of G on the main spar, but as ractive says it is fairly variable and definitely not critical. I don't mess with it at all when I strap the camera on when it tends to slip back a bit - just trim it out a bit when it gets airbourne. I have also elastic banded a U/C on just as an experiment and she takes off after about 30 foot. Naturally this also affects the C of G, but she doesn't seem to mind at all so don't sweat over it anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 thanks for clarifying/confirming the C/G Colin. I was thinking about under carriage, although not that practical on the ridge and furrow field I'm flying off. The wind usually blows perpendicular to the ridges which means I try to land on a downhill, or stall it onto an uphill. I can fling and catch my DLG most times so avoiding the problem. I might have a go at catching the TT2 if I can slow it down enough to just drop into may hand.I'll get some photos up asap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Reid Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Hi Guys, Sorry that RCM&E left the CG off the plan, in fairness, they did apologise. The main spar is the right place. The original would have been far aft of there, but that was the fashion of the times: aerodynamically it's a bit of a suspect theory. We've got elevator for trim so auto stability is not so necessary, and peak glide performance can be sorted in flight. Glad you are enjoying the model. Chris Reid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 thanks ChrisI've just noticed I've been a bit slack and cut the wing joiners wrong, the outcome is I have less dihedral than you intended. main plane has 2/3" each side and the tips an additional 3" I'm not too worried, I guess flying will be a little more involved than it could have been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Reid Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Should be OK. The model is very responsive to rudder so if you've lost a bit of rudder/dihedral turn couple, there should be plenty left. CR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papa Posted November 13, 2007 Share Posted November 13, 2007 Christopher, very nice plan and I'm starting to kit it out. I'm a little confused by the wording of the ply braces. The main wing panel braces show two dotted lines and I'm not sure which line is for the leading edge (measured from the top or bottom)? The wing tip braces indicate four (4) required but the plan seems to have dotted lines for six (two on the leading adge) or am I mistaken? Thank you for any help you can provide.Jack HigginsToronto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 caused me a little head scratching too, but that's what I like about building from plans.I went with just 2 braces on each tip, on the spars and also put gussets in to support the ribs. It all feels pretty solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Naylar Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Hi all, I did the same - 2 braces on the tips, took a bit of working out with the dotted lines, but do a bit of measuring and it all comes clear.I'd be interested what power setups you guys are using or propose to use? As I said in a earlier post I used a cheapie BM2409-12 motor from RCM Direct, a Towerpro MAG8 30A ESC, 8 cell 1600mAh Nimh and a 8"x4" prop and there is power to spare and nothing gets more than slightly warm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Reid Posted November 14, 2007 Share Posted November 14, 2007 Hi all,Ref the spars. Once the spars are webbed at the break points, the size of the ply joiners should appear obvious. The plan has omitted the dotted lines for three joiners at the tip, but the centre break depths are identical, only the angle varies. The main spar joiners are 3/4" deep, the secondary spars 1/2" and the LE 3/8" at the centre break. These dimensions are not supercritical as I've probably over engineered them a bit.CR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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