Andrew767 Posted February 13, 2013 Share Posted February 13, 2013 Cheers Jim I'll remember that and adjust thanks. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris kearney Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 I am thinking of building an electric Jitterbug powered by an AXI 4120/14. Has anyone built an electric version? Also do the cut parts available have the same incorrect wing incidence? Edited By chris kearney on 24/05/2014 08:42:22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Just adding to this old build thread- I have taken the plunge and took advantage of a discounted Jitterbug kit offered by Sarik Hobbies a while ago now. So I am constructing an electric version of the Jitterbug and this is my fuselage build progress to date. Its taken me a couple of months to get here with a few mistakes on the way, which I guess is a bit slow compared to some more experienced - but the fuselage, is now finished, apart from some Jitterbug decals. I have power tested the drive train which all seems to be OK and so far the AUW of the fuselage only, is 1763 gms. Not really looking forward to wing construction as my other models wings are of the foam/veneer construction - but a different challenge with the Jitterbug. I have not read the posts about the wing anomaly yet, so next job then study the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Can any Jitterbug flyers give me an indication of their control throws - are the decals still available, many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) Jitterbug decal is online here to download and print yourself. As with any plan it's worth putting a ruler over the various items and measuring to see if they all fit. There does seem to be some difference in wing cutout in fuselage compared to wing plan. Building a built up wing is not too difficult. I find that a nice flat piece of plasterboard makes a good board and I use little homemade clips to hold the spars flat on the board. Much better than pins etc which have a nasty habit of allowing the spars to lift when you push down at the other end. The clips are made using a length of ply just slightly thinner than spar ( say 6mm thick for a 6.5mm spar ) with another bit of ply glued on top. I make a length for about 6 clips and drill them for screws once the glue has dried, then cut apart into separate parts. Photo shows length of several clips and also one cut apart and another fitted to spar. Edited April 23, 2022 by kc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 One point about using those clips is that the screw should be located behind the spar so that once the wing sheeting has been glued on you can still get access to the screw to undo and remove! Modern screws bite well into plasterboard without pilot holes so it's very easy to secure the clips then remove them without leaving much of a hole in the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 Thanks for the info and wing advice KC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 So at last finished by Jitterbug and had just a few flights while the weather here has been kind. Only really two issues in that the elevator joiner broke on one half of the elevator while the other was still attached - landed OK with no structural damage - the cause was probably due to my inexperienced building skills. I have since strenghtend the joiner with 2mm wire and dowel support to each side of the elevator half/joiner. The other characteristic is that it seems to require right rudder on take off, although wheels, rudder, tail wheel all seem to be square/aligned, so perhaps its something to just get used to. For those interested in the power train I am using a Ripmax Quantum II 40, ZTW 70A Sbec, APC 13*6.5 and 4S3700 40C LiPo. appx 60A 850 Watts. The AUW is 2813gms which is fairly close to the original build article in RCM&E. It flies nicely at slow speed too, great model to build. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 A nice looking model Redex. The Jitterbug cartoon looks natty! Presumably the glue joint failed on the elevator joiner to balsa joint? Spruce was specified on the plan for the 1/4 sq joiner and some people reckon spruce does not glue easily. So it would be interesting to know what glue was used. Some planes - pylon racers, gliders etc- only have elevators on one side anyway which seems to work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted September 24, 2022 Share Posted September 24, 2022 Yes your right, it failed on the elevator joiner to balsa joint, while the original glue was the usual white PVA. I have used epoxy on the added strengthening top dowel and bottom rod which now seems much more robust. It made a very odd sound with one elevator half flapping in the wind, we actually thought the motor had failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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