Fraazen Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Tim, Thank you for the suggestion about the hinges! Next step will be sheeting the top surface of the wings (of course, I'll keep in mind the wash out!), then starting with the fuselage. I hope to do a good job! On top of the fin I added two little pins (from a tooth-pick!) to help keep the stab aligned during assembly. A couple of corresponding holes had been drilled on the stab, of course! Edited By Fraazen on 11/01/2014 14:28:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Ok, even the top of the wing is covered! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Excellent work, Francesco! I like the idea of using old comics to hold the wing skin in postion whilst the glue dries; I think Peter MIller does the same! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Hallo Tim! After a long period of inactivity, I'm closer to have the Clean Sweep ready for covering. I'm planning to use iron-on-film, and I sanded the surface with 400 grit sandpaper. Do you think it's enough or should I apply some kind of primer/paint/glue? What did you do, by the way? Regards Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 8, 2015 Author Share Posted January 8, 2015 Posted by Fraazen on 08/01/2015 22:31:47: Hallo Tim! I'm planning to use iron-on-film, and I sanded the surface with 400 grit sandpaper. Francesco HI Francesco, I'm glad to hear that you're pressing on with the Sweep! Yes, a quick rub down with 400 paper, and you're ready for iron-on film. We need pics........ tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Hi Tim! Thank yo for the nice words and the useful suggestion! Here are some pictures of the (now complete) building! You probably will see, the side cheeks are not parallels, as this is the first time I'm building them... anyhow I think they are acceptable! Regards! Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 Here some more pictures... Edited By Fraazen on 11/01/2015 22:26:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 11, 2015 Share Posted January 11, 2015 And now... he is standing for the very first time and ready for covering! Since I did not find any suitable one, I decided to make my very own pilot (still to be completed). I'll post something on its building later on Regards! Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Francesco, That looks brilliant! You're a precise and meticulous builder, and i bet the model will fly as well as it looks! I do admire your pilot. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Thank you Tim, your words are certainly very rewarding! I'll keep you posted as soon as I complete the covering and test fly it... I think in March/April. Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Here are the wings during the covering with the plastic film. I've used some masking tape to delimit the are where the white film had to be applied. Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Here is the result with the wing finished and the tai partially covered. The masking tape helped a lot to precisely apply the red film, with just a 5mm of overlapping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 An for this weekend it's all! The last job was covering the sides of the cheeks and the air inlet, the latter being a little bit tricky due to the composite curvature and straight angle of the inlet sides. Anyhow, I'm satisfied with it! Regards, Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Dear Tim! Many months after I started the building, my CleanSweep finally took-off! Everything went perfect, as per your article: smooth and straightforward, with just few click of the trim to have it flying level and straight at just 60% of power. By the way, I'm using a 3S 3200mAh Lipo battery, a 50 Amp ESC and an Himaxx 3516-1130 brushless out runner, spinning a 11x5,5 prop. During next flights I'll try to reduce the prop to smaller size, just to see. With this setup, flight time seas in excess of 5minutes, although I avoided the temptation of staying longer in the air! Landing was quite simple, just a matter of playing with the gas. Here is a short video of it (perhaps the only video of the CleanSweep!): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4UqZ4dnZKYQ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted June 30, 2015 Author Share Posted June 30, 2015 That's a brilliant video!! Love the soundtrack and post production! OK, if I post it elsewhere? I'm so pleased that the CS performed as it should. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Thanks Tim! Of course you can post wherever you want! Regards, Francesco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 My Clean Sweep, which is a modified version, has suffered from very poor handling during the take of run. Once in the air it has been fine, no issues what so ever. To cure the ground run issue i have provided a steerable tail wheel. As a modification it has not been a success, at low speed it works fine. The problem is when the speed builds up to about the norma lift of speed. Then the wheel , is no longer providing a positive control. At the last flight, yesterday, the model turned through a full 90 degrees, in an instant, as it left the ground, much to my surprise. I have now decided to put a conventional tail and control set upon the model. My first problem is I no longer have the plan. I could do with the areas of the tail-plane and fin. Also the bare dimensions would be helpful. At this moment i am hoping to use the "V" tail hold down bolt to locate the unit. On that basis the set up may not be identical to the plan, although the proportions i intend keeping to. Can any one help with the info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted June 5, 2016 Share Posted June 5, 2016 Just a thought, Erf - those wheels look quite small compared to the model size and probably react to the slightest imperfection on the strip. Before you change the tail, how about increasing the wheel diameter by about an inch and trying that out? It might just make a difference and it's a lot less work.... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 6, 2016 Share Posted June 6, 2016 Pete The wheels on the front are almost certainly the standard wheel that Tim specified at 60 mm dia. The problem at my old club was that the field was incredibly bumpy, due to being a old covered refuse tip. Plus there are numerous local depressions (sinks). All in the past. Now the issue is slightly different. The surface is very good, although slightly domes. It is a field after all.Most club members at this club are flying to me big models. Big petrol driven aerobatic machines, plus jets flown at every session, some are LMA members. The grass is cut frequently, commendably short. The problem is that the grass is left in rows, to blow away. As far as my models are concerned it is like hitting a catch net. At best my models take on a new direction, at worse they can just nose over. At lift off, my models seem to suddenly leap into the air, requiring a lot of down. My poor old PZ Albatross, has only managed one ground take of, which is disappointing as it has been my hack what ever the weather, totally dependable, either just taking of after a 2 foot run, or a satisfying 20-30 foot run, with a gentle climb out. So it does seem that the CS needs a radical change to nearer the TH as designed configuration. I suspect my models will have to grow in size to cope with the grass issues. Although i have thought of taking a Dutch rake, to create a short runway for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 11, 2016 Share Posted June 11, 2016 Without reading the whole thread, can any one tell me the elevator throw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraazen Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Yes, I settled my elevator to have a max of +/-20mm, measured on the center of it. Then I adjust the throw using D/R to suit my preferences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 17, 2016 Share Posted June 17, 2016 The mod is now complete, not having TH original drawing I resorted to viewing the build Photos of the original and also a dose of typical proportions used on models. I also have avoided a detailed breakdown on what I have done, as the model started out as a CS moded, and now is still a non standard CS, due to the initial changes and the issue of not having a drawing of the original model. The fin/rudder design/build is strictly functional dictated by the short area that the "V" tail occupied. I tend to think of it being something akin to the Zaunkonig or Rivets (the pylon racer) neither of them lookers, although attractive in a functional way. Perhaps the biggest deviation from the CS is that the fin is a plank, with two spruce spars, to hopefully help with bending moments on less than perfect arrivals and other loads. Also to ease the elevator installation, i have mounted the servo in the fin. I decided that +/- 25 mm on the elevator is far to much for me, this is now approx +/- 10-12 mm, with a load of exponential mixed in. I have taxied the combination around the back garden, which does indicate that the rudder provides a positive means of controlling direction. I still need to check that the TP to wing incidence is acceptable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allen Barbee Posted December 11, 2016 Share Posted December 11, 2016 For the CS 48" I couldn't get the recommended Turnigy 1250kv motor nor a suitable substitute so I put in a Scorpion 3014-1034kv but it wasn't good enough. I think it was past it's prime also. I had an old Hobbypartz motor that was a power 15 950kv equivalent. Added a 10x10 APC prop and it was better. Performance not good on a pair of Nanotech 3s 2650mah 25c lipos and they got pretty warm. Bought 3 - 3s 2650mah 35c packs, increased the aileron throw a little, and it's now a great sport and aerobatic plane with 5 mins of fun! This is the first scratch build plane I've done and haven't put a kit together for over 30 years. The covering is Ultracote and the scheme is from a race plane. Ultracote was hard to work with on a full wood surface. I made the two side and bottom scoops working and cut a hole in the bottom, rear of the fuselage for air exit. Edited By Allen Barbee on 11/12/2016 06:52:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted December 11, 2016 Author Share Posted December 11, 2016 That's great news, Allen! It's a amazing how a couple of small changes can alter a model's performance, isn't it? Any photos to share? tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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