Colin Bernard Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Hi Sparks Yes - the 4-Max crimp tool is the tool for the job - unlike those you get from Maplin, eBay or wherever. In fact other than the colour they look identical to those in Timbo's video. They are ratchet pliers with stepped jaws, so once you learn to put the connectors in the correct way round and the right way up you will have no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Not the same as mine A friend ( Zaidy - posted on this here forum in a similar thread a few weeks back ) bought these from 4max and they are nowhere near the quality of mine. Whats more they dont even crimp the cable correctly He asked about eplacement jaws to properly fit the servo terminals, and got an unhelpful reply. His search continues for a proper set ... two now purchased from different sources, and neither do the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kozmyk Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 +1 for the 4-Max crimpers.I did take me a couple of goes to get the technique right though.It's not a bad idea to label the jaws with a "This Side Up" in case you forget next time.I may even take my own advice on that one. You know you've lined them up wrong when you cut the pin in half with the step. I top up on terminals whenever I order from 4-Max or HobbyKing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 Thanks Tim, I was just about to order the 4-Max crimpers but think I shall now wait until Weston Park when I can see what I am buying. Seems that ordering on- line, based on the supplier's description, is no guarantee that you will get the right tool for the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Bernard Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I stand by my comments re the 4-Max crimpers - here is a pic of a crimp. As you see cable crimp tight round the core, insulator crimp firm around the insulation and, just to satisfy myself, after earlier comments, I tried to to pull it off and it won't budge! This is totally different to the results when I tried the Maplin and the Al's Hobbies tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 I'm glad it works for you Colin....perhaps it was the way Zaidy was using them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaunie Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hi Guys, There is a knack to crimping connections, been making crimps professionally for over 30 years (getting old or what!). At the last count I had 17 pairs for different jobs and I still get caught out not having a pair for a job from time to time. Quality crimpers are very expensive £75-£100 is not unusual. Chinese/Taiwanese crimpers do get them in reach of occasional users but quality does vary considerably, as does the competence of the user. The very small size of servo connectors does not make it any easier. Practice makes perfect. Good quality crimpers will be made specifically to suit the terminal in question and the jaw pockets and anvil will look as if they have a ground finish. Cheap crimpers will look as if they are pressed or formed. Crimpers do tend to run-in as the terminals burnish the jaw giving an improvement in quality. Ratchet crimpers are better than non-ratchet for many reasons, the main one was to ensure that the jaws were fully closed when making the crimp and thus avoiding a partially crimped connection. For the best quality termination the crimp needs to be formed fairly quickly in one smooth movement so that the ears of the crimp get a chance to flow continuously, no stopping for a look halfway through the process. Crimp terminals closed with pliers are not proper crimps, there is insufficent force to form what is virtually a cold weld when the crimp is properly made. In this case please solder them as well. As already mentioned, soldered joints are more brittle and less reliable than crimp connections. A crimp has better vibration resistance. When soldered the solder can wick up the wire if not performed quickly this makes the wire rigid and liable to break up inside the insulation where it cannot be seen. There is also a risk of filling the crimp with solder rendering it useless. A couple of final points:- Never tin the wire end with solder before crimping (or put it in a screw terminal for that matter) it will always come loose. Never double the conductor back over the insulation to fill the crimp better, this causes the conductor to break inside the insulation. it is ok however to double the conductor over itself to fill the crimp more fully if the wire is a bit small for the termination size. Final analysis, solder if you have to but crimp is better. Hope this is of use to someone and that I haven't waffled too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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