Roy Mundy Posted October 3, 2012 Share Posted October 3, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 Glad you sorted the picture posting Roy .If you have not done any night flying before it will be interesting to hear how you get on with orientation .Your Light Lagger should certainly look good and create some local interest....... Roswell all over again! lol. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Mundy Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Thank you for starting this thread Tom, you have certainly inspired a lot of people, At our club we are all building light laggers for bonfire night, as we are having a big bbq and bonfire etc, so hopefully they will light up the sky in fashion. I have given my plane red on the left and blue on the right (Should have been green) and green top ..........so hopefully this will help with orientation. I may put white underneath so i can see the ground when I'm landing Thanks again. Roy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 4, 2012 Share Posted October 4, 2012 Pipe laggers, I love them ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 4, 2012 Author Share Posted October 4, 2012 Posted by fly boy3 on 04/10/2012 22:08:23: Pipe laggers, I love them ! Don't tell the wife FB3 lol. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi Tom, its a Dart now, 2 questions, 1, if flown in a conserving fashion (read slower) can I use same power set up as standared pipe lagger. 2, is the slot for the wing in the fus. cut around 6 mm to accept the wing or is it cut into 2 halves. Cheers FB3 Edited By fly boy3 on 09/10/2012 21:42:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi FB3 Yes same motor esc set will fly the model nice and sedately ,mine still has the original hk donkey which gives 100 watts ,on a good day lol,so any small motor that will produce 90-120 watts will do .If you fit the u/c then chose a motor with a kv of around 1400 to get the prop ground clearance. The lagging is cut in half and simply glued to each side of the wing centre line top and bottom ,don't forget cut outs for hatches .You will find it necessary to cut a well in the wing (under hatches) to get enough room to house the rx etc . Do let us know how the build progresses. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Adding a canopy improves the looks Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks Tom, only have one sheet of Depron 6mm left of my original buy, so I had better get it right first time LoL. I think the tractor type model will also be safer to launch than a pusher (for me anyway), and probably easier to sort out the CoG. Thanks Tom. Perhaps a picture will suffice of completed model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Posted by Tom Wright 2 on 21/07/2011 00:01:05: Early test flights . The build blog starts on page 13. Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 10/10/2012 01:17:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 Thanks Tom, sorry for all the questions, but I like to get all the info before I start. Can you tell me what size piano wire you use for the rods, also ,on top or beneath wings. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 FB3. The servos can be mounted on top or underneath the wing ,but I prefer to fit them on top for practical considerations.I used 1mm piano wire for the servo push rods ,1.5mm would also be ok. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Thanks Tom, cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Hi all, in process of building one of Tom Wright's PL Darts. Only due to the fact I have no Fut. extension and y leads in my stock, I wondered if this model would lend itself to elevons. Just a thought. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Posted by fly boy3 on 14/10/2012 12:56:27: Hi all, in process of building one of Tom Wright's PL Darts. Only due to the fact I have no Fut. extension and y leads in my stock, I wondered if this model would lend itself to elevons. Just a thought. Cheers. Don't see why not FB3 but keep in mind that this would effectively double the roll and pitch control surface areas.This may make the model twitchy but not necessarily depending on throws . Well worth a try though ,it could result in a better system and save two servos and leads. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Thanks Tom, have decided to go with elevons. As this is my 1st delta I have done some reading. Looking at a delta called Pibros, very similar to the Dart, and with elevons. Suggested throws, elevon reflex-4-5 degrees positive. Ailerons +/- 20 degrees, - Elevators.+/- 10 degrees. Exponential 60 -70 %. Would you agree this may be a good starting point Tom. ? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 15, 2012 Author Share Posted October 15, 2012 Sounds ok FB3 ,the final set up can be established by progressive use of power and picking a calm day for the maiden. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 15, 2012 Share Posted October 15, 2012 Thanks Tom, bits on order with GS. Cheers. will do as you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Hi Tom, Wicks plasterers scrim tape. Can this be used for control surfaces on the Dart, bearing in mind that the Dart will be more agile etc than the average PL models. If so does it need some extra adhesive. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 Hi FB3 Would I be correct in assuming the first question refers to the control surface hinges ? If so I guess the scrim could be used although I have not tried it . Maybe a test with some scrap depron would be worth while and try various materials .My Dart still has the original blenderm tape hinge ,or a cotton handkerchief cut in to strips and attached under over (just like we used to do years ago) UHU por can give good results for attaching the hinge material. Standard cyno hinges also work well attached to the upper or lower surfaces ,but again use UHU por as cyno will eat the depron. A free hinge is desirable particularly if the 4.5 gm servos are used. Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 17/10/2012 02:14:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly boy3 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Sorry Tom, should have mentioned It was for the hinges. I have managed to scrounge some Blenderm tape from a club mate. I normally pick up odds and sods at a show, but as you know most of the shows were cancelled this year. The old handkerchief trick was a blast from the past Tom. We used to use bandage. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 Brought this over from the Pipe Lagger Video Collection as its a good example of how the original design was intended to fly . Well done Gaz Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 19/10/2012 01:58:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted November 9, 2012 Author Share Posted November 9, 2012 Hi buffetslayer. The build blog requested starts on page one of this thread. Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozzle Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 Hi, As a newbie to RC flying I am building a pipe lagger with a pusher prop as I keep snapping props when I land nose down!. Any thoughts as to whether C of G rules are different for a pusher and also should the motor shaft be level or inclined up or down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Bozzle. Sorry I missed your post . A pusher motor would normally be mounted with around 5 degrees of up thrust ( motor shaft inclined up) This is required because the thrust line is behind the cog . An incorrect thrust line may be the reason your model is nosing in , but if the power is cut before ground contact ,a flexible prop should normally survive . If as you suggest you are new to rc planes then the tractor version would have been a better bet ,but if you have no previous flying experience I would strongly suggest joining a club or after obtaining BMFA insurance seek help from an experienced pilot. Check the video above ....Gaz demonstrates how minimum power is used to fly the model nice and slow , beginners often just let go at full throttle which gives little chance to gain control before it all goes wrong! Hope this helps. Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 02/01/2013 23:44:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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