Ken Tarran Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Hi everyone, I'm in the process of bulding my first retracts model and I'm sure I've heard it said that retracts should have their own battery power and therefore an additional switch too. Could someone please advise of the best way of connecting the additional battery and switch to the Rx and the two separate retract servos that I have? I will shortly be at the stage in the build where I will need to get this sorted, so any help or advice would be most welcome. Kind regards, Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Cantwell Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 i only answered this last week, have you tried a search? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allan Bennett Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 The reason for the recommendation is to prevent a stalled retract servo from pulling down the battery voltage so low that the receiver can no longer operate properly. The way to do it is quite simple: You first need to pull the middle pin (red or orange wire, +ve lead) out of the retract servo's plug that goes to the receiver (or the plug on the Y-lead that connects the servos). Then you splice an additional -ve lead into the servo's (or Y-lead's) -ve lead, and wire it and the loose +ve lead (that you removed from the original plug) into a standard servo socket. So your servo (or Y-lead) now has one servo plug on it, and one servo socket, each with only two pins present. The servo plug (signal and -ve leads) goes into the receiver as normal, and the servo socket (-ve and +ve leads) gets a standard receiver battery, or even a BEC, plugged into it to supply power to the retract servos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 The simplest way is using a Y wire. The servo goes at the single end of the Y. At the other end attach the receiver and the retracts battery. Chop the red wire going from the receiver to the center of the Y. Job done. The switch would obviously run between the retracts battery and the Y lead. I'm not a fan of pulling the the leads out of plugs because its difficult / impossible to get them in again. A Y lead is expendible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 ">picture is worth a thousand words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Or indeed our own forum here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Even earlier.....The search button....a wonderful invention . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Tarran Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Many thanks to everyone who has replied with very helpful info. I'm just about to climb into the loft (my model office) to see if I can get the retracts/battery sorted. Apologies Tim for not searching before creating a new thread - I consider myself fully rebuked!! Sorry. I will write 100 lines this evening "I must search the forum before creating a new thread"....... Thanks again, Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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