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2nd electric model - advice please


scuba steve
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hi all,
 
i've been mainly a heli man but after flying my Skyartec Cessna 182 foamie (4 channel) for the last few months.....the plank bug as bitten ...i've now totally outgrown it.

i'm now looking for a 2nd electric model to step up to.
 
i want to use my 3S 2200mAh 25c Bats and i have a 70A esc spare

i want something not too small, with a bit of power for loops
& rolls etc without a struggle. maybe able to handle a bit of wind and my club has a rough grass strip so it needs to be able to handle that.


all suggestions will be appreciated......thanks steve
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yes i like the look of some of those Seagull EP's.
 
i've been looking a getting a wot 4 and making it electric but i dont want another foamie.
the wot 4 E (balsa) would be a good bet (although its 10% smaller) but about 6 guys at the club have them....i'm wanting to be different
 
i'n new to planes so where can i buy wheels from ?
 
thanks
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Id agree with Steve - most of the seagull ( 43 -46" sized type stuff ) models are nice, as are the E-Flite ones.
If you're nice and comfy now woith fixed wing, how about a nice EDF?
The ALFA range of models are particularly nice, but TBH there's just loads of stuff that is built around the popular 2000+ ma 3s lipo.Tell us a bit more about what floats yer boat.
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The EP Decathlon is a good large model and a 2814-8T with an APC 10x7E gives it good power.
 
The PC 9 is also ok (had both of these planes) and the same motor fits.
 
I'm not sure that you'd be ready for an Edge at this time.
 
The other obvious choice is the E-Flite Mini Pulse XT and Al's have the E-Flite PT-19 at a little over £60.
 
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Funny you mention the E Flite Mini Pulse, I just picked one up yesterday and am about to assemble it later, maiden tomorrow.
I have an E Flite 480 950 KV out runner with a 30amp esc and plan to use 2200 mah 3 cell lipo, not sure of prop size yet (10 x7 maybe as a starting point)
 
Phil
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It depends on how rough is rough I suppose....certainly my Extra has very small wheels but these cope with our mown grass strip.....then again its not on the ground long enough for it to matter much...!!
 
If you fancied building your own the Nigel Hawes Fizza goes very well on a 2200 3S Lipo at about 250watts.....
 
Maybe check out the EF database for inspiration & set ups info too....
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It's such a good flyer.
 
You'll have issues with fitting the Park 480 but there's a big thread on RC Groups which shows how some people have mounted it. The larger diameter means that you cannot easily get all the screws in.
 
I fitted the 2814-8T (1000kv) with an APC 10x7e and also had to allow for the mounting differences.
 
I'd check on the current draw with that motor as I think that the 30A ESC may be close to the limits. The 1020kv version can be used with something like up to a 12x6 but they suggest a 40A ESC for that set up.
 
 
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i do want to take it off from the grass....its a mown strip but a little bumpy. i also want low wing.
 
i've been looking at these :
 
E-Flite Mini FuntanaX ARF
E-Flite Mini Pulse XT EP ARF
E-Flite Pulse XT 25e ARTF
 
i do like the look of the ;
 
Seagull EP PC-9 Roulette (51in) Electric RC Plane
 
but the front nose wheel puts me off (and the wire like undercarriage struts)
 
 
 
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Go for the Edge or the Decathlon then.....both tail draggers...
 
I'm sure you'll get on fine with the Edge...my Extra is a really nice model to fly...very forgiving....it was my "Weapon of Choice" when called upon by the local Beaver Scouts to demonstrate the principles of flight. Flying it into a very tight piece of grass near the village community hall with 24 6,7 & 8 year olds jumping up & down around you certainly concentrates the mind...
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I have just finished ( and had two flights ) the seagull Extra 300.
First advice is to use decent quality servos - I started off with cheapy DYS jobs, and the centreing and resolution was poor - resulting in untidy flight character.
I went Hitec HS65 all round - much better.
Its a light model, and although it handles wind fine for its weight, its better in calm conditions for accurate aeros ( well it is in my limited hands )
If you want to know what powertrain I used etc, just ask away.
Very small wheels and spats catch the grass easily - so dont bother with long scale like take offs - full WOT and haul her off quick


Edited By Tim Mackey - Administrator on 13/07/2011 19:06:06

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Thanks Tim,
 
its 2nd hand and i'm having a test flight before purchase. i'll let you know the drive chain once i get it home. the owner has already removed spats and put on bigger wheels so thats saved me a job
 
2 questions :
 
where can i buy a decent watt meter for a sensible price ?
 
what is the watts per pound of aircraft thing ?
 
steve
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Wattmeters abound in most model shops these days, - online try Giant Cod, or BRC etc.
Watts per pound is a very general guide, and 80 -100 will fly most sport models OK.
For better performance up that to around 150 per lb.
Ballistic, and EDfs etc, 200+.
I first flew the Extra on a 10 x 5 prop, and around 300 watts.
She weighs 2lb 3 oz, so that would be around 130 WPlb - it was fine.
Being a bit of a hoologan, I have just propped up to a 12 x 6, and its now at 450 Watts.
Climbs OOS in seconds, and has great punch and power for aeros.
Trouble is, my motor is only rated to 350 Watts, so it may be short lived
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Excelleny choice Steve...you won't be disappointed......mine has a Turnigy TR35 42C motor up front which is rated at 450watts with a kv of about 1100 if my memory serves....fitted with an APC 11x7 it runs at just over 400 watts (I'm a bit of a Hooligan too but not as much as Tim!!! ) It will do pretty much anything you ask of it & is unlimited vertical at 400+ watts.....300 would be adequate or 350 to be safe
 
Running at 400watts or so will push your 2200 battery pretty hard though...effectively you are at 20C there & this results in short flights & short battery life (no... I'd rather you didn't ask me how I know this....) I often run two 2200 packs in parallel, effectively giving me a 4400 battery & this gives me easy 10-12 minute flights plus a little bit more power as the voltage holds up better. The weight of the extra batery also makes the plane a bit more "solid" in the air....especially if its a bit windy & your batteries will have a longer life....
 
I would echo Tims comments about the servos too....I used some cheapy 9g units & the elevator servo failed coming out of a loop.....luckily it hit the ground almost flat so I got away with a few repairs. I replaced the servos with some metal geared jobbies from Hobbyking & these have been fine for ooh...several years now. They are pretty big control surfaces & do tend to get waggled about a fair bit when in flight....
 
Final thought.....if you are not too confident then you can always prop down a bit to reduce the available power.....mine would probably lose just over 100watts if I switch to a 10x5 but still be quite nice to fly...then, as your confidence grows you can strap a bigger prop on & rediscover the "missing" power......all that said though you could just use the throttle!!!
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thanks for the advice
 
i've just bought a 2ndh hand seagull 300 extra from a BMFA member. he showed me how well the model could fly, then transferred all his DX8 settings onto my my DX6i....the i test flew it. What a lovely model and a decent guy....there are sure some good people in this hobby.
 
it has a 990kv motor, 40A ESC and a 10 x 3.8 prop. i can apparently get 8 mins per 2200 mAh 3S battery. only a watt meter would tell me what its pulling at full throttle.
 
 
steve
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