GrahamC Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ohh... and weight. Some might be interested to know that with the glass cloth and a single coat of WBPU the fuselage and tail pieces weighed in at a total of 574g Now with the additional coats of WBPU, the primer, filler, paint, cockpit, pilot, canopy, and the epoxy for the rudder and tailplane we are at 770g so another 196g added. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Whoops - I got my Mathis wrong, and can't seem to edit the post?I forgot to add the cowl to the weight of the fuselage before painting. That's another 48g, so paint, primer filler, canopy, pilot etc add only 148g - better than I thought!Tony Nijhuis' came in at 3.17 kg so I think I'm probably on target. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Hi Graham, looking great!. It is good to see how others build their kits, which is one the best things that the inernet has brought to this hobby. Also, it is I think good to weigh stuff constantly, so you can see exactly how much weight is added by glassing and stuff. You see lots of blogs saying that epoxy and glass adds tons of weight, and calling it 'liquid lead' and I think it puts people off (almost me too) but having the actual figures rationalises it. If applied properly it is a light and tough finish (can you tell I am a convert!) and I love it. nice bit of paneling going on, looking forwards to seeing your build fully painted up. keep up the good work, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Right.... some photos of where I've got to... Lot's to do, but the end is now in sight... The fuselage and wings have not received a spray coat of Poly-C to fuel proof the paintwork and seal the surface. Remember everything except the exhausts is emulsion paint. You have to be very careful handling the airframe untill it is coated in the Poly-C becasue the emulsion marks very easily. The advantage is that the paint for the whole airframe cost less than £8. I may add a further coat of Poly C when I have added some lettering etc. In the end I carved the exhaust stacks from balsa, painted them with silver enamel, and then gave them another coat of dark grey acrylic and rubbed them back so that some of the silver showed through. I finished them with a coat of water based varnish. I'm fairly pleased with the effect for no money! I still have to paint the ailerons (which I forgot when I did the wings!) A few questions if anyone has any thoughts: I still have to think about the wheel bay doors. Any thoughts out there? 2mm Liteply? What do people reckon? How much of a pounding will they take? I want to keep them as light as possible for obvious reasons. Lettering. The aircraft in question has white lettering. Any thoughts out there on how to do this. I may do some of the smaller markings with water slide transfers printed at home, but white ink for an inkjet printer sounds like something you ask the new apprentice to go and ask for! Edited By GrahamC on 27/02/2012 19:43:11 Edited By GrahamC on 27/02/2012 19:43:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fats Flyer Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Hi Graham,looking very very nice. For the wheel bay doors,ive always used lithoplate.Its lightweight and easy to shape. If your going to cut your own letters,Solartrim is very good to use.I mark out the letters on the backing(reverse image) and cut it out using a circle cutter,scissors and scalpel. Cant wait to see it finished. Regards Vince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 VERY SMART love the blue ,what did you use in the end for the black invasion stripe , beautiful bird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Posted by Fats Flyer on 27/02/2012 20:10:44: For the wheel bay doors,ive always used lithoplate.Its lightweight and easy to shape. I do have some lithoplate, so that's an idea - won't it be a bit floppy? I bought some when I saw it on ebay, but have never used it. Would you build a balsa frame to support it? I think the full size door is framed, so that could work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fats Flyer Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 i make a ply or liteply frame in one peice the shape of the wheel bay doors.Very sturdy that way,never had problems . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Posted by David Bess on 27/02/2012 20:15:26: VERY SMART love the blue ,what did you use in the end for the black invasion stripe , beautiful bird Its emusion paint too! For the record, the main blue is "Boutique" from Crown. The rest is B&Q tester pots, Jet black, Antique white, Georgia (roundel blue) and Rosie. (roundel red) B&Q may not like me saying this, but the Crown product is vastly superior and covers a lot better than the B&Q one. If I were going to paint another model, I would especially avoid the B&Q white which took lots of coats. Paint was thinned with pre-mix screen wash at about 50/50 and applied with a touch up gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 Hi Graham. It will be interesting to see how you get on with your doors if you use litho. I was thinking about those for mine today. I like the scheme of your spit and look forwards to seeing it finished. Glad you found my ramblings useful on my blog. Cheers, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 I've got the retracts in and working. This is my first scale build, the first with retracts and about my third build over all (If you don't count the Depron stuff) I've leant a lot, and next time I would fit the retracts properly before sheeting the wing. I just assumed that if I built the aperture for the wheels where shown on the plan all would be well. As you can see on the video, I've had to use slightly smaller wheels. Not a disaster by any means, but a good lesson learned! Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 17/05/2013 13:50:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Very smart and good pirce too , they work well ,bet she looks smart stood on her wheels ,what is the back wheel like ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Posted by David Bess on 02/03/2012 17:50:13: Very smart and good pirce too , they work well ,bet she looks smart stood on her wheels ,what is the back wheel like ? Well lets just say that its not going to retract - no room for that! and it has to be light, but I have yet to sort it out. I have the wheel and some bits to do it, but I'm planning to completely finish the wing next. Ailerons to paint, hinges to fit and servos to set up. I just need to grab some clevises and that can all be done. I'm waiting for the first coat of varnish on the inside of the flaps to dry as I type! Edited By GrahamC on 02/03/2012 19:54:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I don't think the Mk IX did retract the rear wheel ,not posative but if I am wrong sure some more knowlagable person will correct me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Well the build is progressing, and there is light at the end of the tunnel. I have a few problems to solve. I need a tail wheel, and have a few ideas. Then I just need to work out how to fit the radiators and chin intake. Here is a fairly boring video showing how I did the flaps. I've made a start with the servos in the fuselage. I picked up a couple of Hitec ones for the rudder and elevator. A standard servo for the rudder and something a bit beefier for the elevator. I'm trying to get it all the radio gear on or in in front of the CofG position, in the hope that I won't have too many problems in that department. Elevator and rudder are fitted, and just need pinning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Flaps went in well Graham well thought out they look propper . The tail and fin look smart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Very neat solution on hiding the servos for the flaps. loking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Well I got the tail wheel sorted today. I was pleased to get it steering via an external link on to the rudder horn. I couldn't resist the urge to put the whole thing together and sit it on all three wheels for the first time. I'm getting very close to the maiden now. Just a few jobs left to do! I think it would look better on the slightly larger and closer to scale wheels, and I may see how much work it would take to get them to fit into the retract bays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 She doe's do look good I really like that blue , tail wheel is clever how it turns from the rudder. I have just got home to the new 62 1/2 in plans from RCM&E I was never too happy with the 45 in. and I do like yours so I splashed out My DX 8 and sim should arrive in a couple of weeks as they were out of stock , anyway I can work out my balsa and ply needed and send of to Balsa Cabin for the materials and start cutting my wing ribs and formers , as soon as it arrives , I just need to work out what servo's ,retracts, battery pack needed for receiver and the oleo's I will need so any advice on my list of requirements would help as I know nothing about servos retracts ect . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 21, 2012 Author Share Posted March 21, 2012 Hi David - Yes - I'll have a few suggestions for you - I'm going to need about 300g of weight in the nose - and I think there are a few things that could be done to keep the weight down at the back. Not too bad though - she came out at just over 3.1 Kilo's so with the additional nose wight I'm still under 3.5. I took her up the field briefly today with the aim of starting her up and taxing around before checking over the retracts one more time - but could we get her to start? Tried two plugs - not a peep out of her. I ran my field battery out trying! Plenty of fuel, but something wasn't right. Anyway I got her to go this evening. Unfortunatey my pilot didn't like the vibrations and decided to have a lie down - so I have that to sort out! (I'm starting to wish I had gone for vibration free electric! I have a photo, but Picassa won't let me upload it at present! So... I have to whip the control rods out in order to get to the cockpit! Ah well! I reckon you can wait for servos till you are further along with the build - I will try and put a list together later. When you build your wings you will need your retract units struts and wheels. When you build your fuselage you will need your motor or engine. My retracts were very cheap from hobbyking - I'll let you know how I get on with them. And... make sure you pick up the mistake on the plan! - I've noted it on the first page of this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Thanks Graham your a pal ,sorry about your teething probs. I will build the wings first ,I can't believe how much the balsa and ply come to it's not far of the cnc kit, no real saving buying from scratch never mind I want to do a scratch build on it ,it's gona be a warm up to Mick Reeves scale spit , Tony's is scale /sport I think so I can just have fun with it . Having had time to have a good look at the 45 in. spit it looks simple to make it look like a MK. XVI it will take a lot of weight of the back end. I plan to make former 5 more oval(egg shaped) put in a former between former 4 and 5 and one in after 5 making the fuselage more oval from F4 down to the tail and string them together then clad . I have picks of a XVI deconstructed and the back looks egg shaped in cross section from the back of the canopy to tail It's all good fun I hope you you get your spit sorted OK , Did you use 2 stroke or 4 stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 this is the tail section it takes on this shape gradually from F4 down to the tail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrahamC Posted March 22, 2012 Author Share Posted March 22, 2012 "The vibrations are just too much for me!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bess Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Sleeping on the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mightypeesh Posted March 22, 2012 Share Posted March 22, 2012 Hi Graham. I think it is me that has been sleeping on the job. All this progress going on around me, I need to pull my finger out. Glad you are nearly underway David, and interesting about the cost of the laser pack compared to the raw materials from balsa cabin. Having bought the pack for my 45" TN spit I have been very impressed with both the quality and also the amount of extra materials that I still have for bits and pieces. Keep up the good work, Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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