ntsmith Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I evenualy decided that the wing tips would have to be strengthed and "let in" some 1/8" ply. It still is not guaranteed that they wont break off but I dont build to crash or against hangar rash even. So, all thing considered, it is a reasonable compromise as it is nice to have the tips for reference when setting the ailerons. Here is a picture on my beloved wheel brakes. I have contacted one or two companies but just cannot get them any longer. I am sure they would sell as the alternative ones used on the jets cost hundreds and are well OTT for this sort of use. One end is soldered to the U/C the other lead goes to the servo and when its pulled tight it simply grips the drum. All the best ideas are simple ! I shall also use these on my Bar-Fly (on another build log under the mass 2012 vintage build or similar) Edited By Tim Mackey on 29/01/2012 14:19:04 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Wing brakes..you mean WHEEL brakes ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 OK OK Wheel brakes. Wheels get fitted on the U/C which is on the wings. Don't they ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 LOL, on some models yes. I'll change it for ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 I now have the wing covered and I must admit to worying about getting all those four leads out of that centre hole without damaging the surroundings. I have placed a grommet there to protect it at the field when putting and taking it apart. The wing is now covered and the connectors all have a plastic "keeper" on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 The removable centre hatch will cover the brake servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 I now need to add some guidese for the cables (strong cord) that will operate the wheel brakes. I have changed the output arm from the output arm on the servos in this shot as even on the outer horn on the surface there appeared to be too much movement. Ofcourse, that will need to be checked by flying but I have no idea what the throws would have been. Different from today's I suspect as there was no ability to soften the centre's so presumably there can be more on today then in the days when thos was first built. I had originaly gone for an arrangement of: 1/setup as though there was no flaps at all. 2/basic addition of flaps with a coupled flap elevator setup which is all that could have been done with a switched in servo as PK used. plus 3/ coupled elevator/flaps and ailerons 4/ The use of the flaps as flaps and spoilerons 5/ailerons the full length. I have decided that only 1 and 2 will be used for initial flights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 That looks amazing. Beautifully built Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 Struggled today fitting four bolts that hold the nose wheel assembly together. Using socket headed bolts with spring washers as well as nyloc nuts for added security, the problem being that the long hex driver wasnt long enough and I had changed the lower two bolts as there was risk of the aluminium screw head getting destroyed by a worn screwdriver and particuarly more so if there was paint on the screw head. I figured capheads would be able to be removed more easily if ever it came to that. I then covered the bottom part of the nose. I expect now I have just about three pieces of covering to complete that task. My third roll of orange was orderd and received from Gladston's. I guess it wasnt in stock but they were very helpful in getting ot to me quickly as soon as they had it, Thanks Gladstons. I have to fit the rear two pushrods BEFORE covering as I don't want to juggle with the fitting of them and poke it through the covering! Just trying to think ahead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 On the downhill stretch now, just as well with the Bar-fly Build underway too. Here are a couple of pics just to show. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Have finally installed the engine and done a rough cg check. Oops. Not very happy about that one. It is VERY nose heavy. Not sure what I can put it down to but the original ended up with the battery behind the wing and I can see no other way than doing the same so its going to be a hatch built behind the wing to accommodate a 6V ni-cad and even then it will be on the slight nose heavy side. The other thing I may have to do then is fit a tail skid. Not necessarily wanted but in cutting the underside out I may be able to put a 20g lead weight in there to help things along. Anyway, here is a picture of the SC61 (Normal carb position) mounted in its pride of place. Since then all the plumbing has been completed and the engine is now in a state of being able to be run. Certainly I have now passed a major milestone in the building of this model. It could now be flown within days if the weather looked as though it was going to be suitable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 I got the maided out the way today with good vis and temp at about 9c. the wind was about 9 going on 15knots. Lowish but changing direction all the time. The first landing nearly ended in disaster when the wind caught it just before touch down but the SC61 opened up without coughing or spluttering and I went round for a pretty good landing - imho! However, it is STILL significantly nose heavy even with some lead in the tail and the battery (6V placed behind the wing) so I am going to have to shove a bit more lead in the tail some where yet again. Anyway, IT FLIES Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Excellent news. It's very, erm, orange, isn't it? I keep getting this image of a certain fizzy drink ad campaign Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 Orange is Ok and it looks superb. Nice one, Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 don't get me wrong, orange is great, just as long as the model being all orange doesn't lead to orientation problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ntsmith Posted February 28, 2012 Author Share Posted February 28, 2012 No probs there. When its inverted, its orange, just so you know it. Seriously, I learnt from flyer who flew VERY FAST and small models that colour shouldn't be relied on and in fact they all blend in after a certain distance anyway. Try flying your sim with the model in silouette mode, you soon get used to it. It will have some black trim applied but I just wanted to get it out and flying. There are about three things to do. 1/ Tighten but NOT file a flat on the steering tiller grub screw location. (It needs to be able to turn if it get a whack when its not supposed to! If it sits on a flat then the servo gets the shock and thats not good. Much better to just reposition the noseleg and re-tighten. 2. Add some more lead in the back. I am going to do what I did before but more so. That is to cut the botton a little and screw a chunk to the rear fuz side. 3. Adjust the engine throttle cable control range as this engine just idles at rediculous speeds and it can go lower ! I want to be able to cut it though some times. I have at least temporarily changed the metal spinner for a plastic JP one but only starting it a few times will tell if its man enough for the job. Strangely, nearly all flight surfaces were almost spot on for neutrals and for throws. Very pleased about my guesswork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Michie Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Don't know how many of you know, but Nigel sadly (& suddenly) passed away earlier this year, approx 4 weeks after the last post above. He was out flying (this model) at the time & collapsed after a flight on the flying field. Emegency Services attended but were unable to resuscitate him. Really sad & a great loss to his family, the Club and the hobby. RIP Nigel Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 I'm very sorry to hear that, can I ask how old Nigel was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Michie Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Just sixty I believe. And apparently in good health & good spirits. So a "spring chicken" in todays world. Makes you realise we're all mortal............... Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted December 14, 2012 Share Posted December 14, 2012 Very, very sad .......but he was participating in his hobby .......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbo565 Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Very sad when a fellow forumite passes on,our thoughts are with his family Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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