Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Hi TomLooks great. Did I miss the power train spec? Would be useful to know watts required Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 HI rA No not yet but it will be between 150 and 200.depending how this build weight ends up my estimate is between 1.25-1.5 lbs. Do you find the build info so far is sufficient ? Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Doubling up the fire wall and notching front edge of floor. At this stage one of the formers can be used to double up the rear of the fire wall best done with cyno as this hardens stressed parts. Two notches are now put in the floor front edge to allow clearance for the undercarriage wire. Sorry blurred need more tea !Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 08:24:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Fitting fire wall Use PVA to glue the fire wall in place and adjust to achieve a 4 degree down-thrust angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Fire wall fillets Scrap 1.5 mm lite ply is use to fillet both sides at the rear of the firewall. Dimensions not critical mine are 2 1/2" x 1 1/2" Need to set some lighting set up these flash photos are no good ,hope you can see enough to get on. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 08:40:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Looking good, clear and simple - better than most instructions with ARTF's and kits! repeat to self - must not build more models..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 OK Olly Must not build more models....Must not build more models....Must not build more models....Must not build more models....LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Tail mount . Two lengths of 1/2" x 4 1/4" tri section med balsa glued to boom ,or whatever you have to hand that's not heavy. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 11:22:45Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 11:23:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Tailplane and Fin. Material 1/8" med balsa sheet. Center section 12" x 4 1/4" Tips from 5" x 4 1/4" taper 1" in from tip l/e Dihedral 4 3/4" under each tip. Glue Cyno. Fin. From 5 1/4" x 4 1/4" taper 1" from top l/e. All glue joints with cyno no other reinforcements recommended. Its absolutly essential that the fin and tailplane tips are set square . Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 11:56:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 You may well ask why I skipped on to the tail before finishing the fus mid section . This is due to changes from my original prototype design and in an effort to beef up and simplify this build......err and cos the tail is easy in fact its all easy until we get to bits that control the things that whirl round lol. Now the mean c/g point has been established we can get back to the fus ,hoist the mast then tackle the control mech / tri flapper plate .Rotors will be last but they are very straightforward.Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 12:02:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Mast to boom pivot / anchor location. Measure 7 1/2" from the fire wall face as a reference distance to draw a line across as shown. This line is were the mast base center will be located. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 14:03:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro. Mast anchor / pivot plates material 1/8" ply. Dimensions 2" x 1 1/2". 4mm hole location 1" in from vertical edge 1/2" down from top edge. Double check the hole axis is true in both planes. Glue into place and use a 4mm rod or drill to check correct alignment. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 14:29:36Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 14:33:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro. Servo mounting blocks. Material 1/2" x 1/4" spruce (make from boom off cut) Space to suit servos 9 gram size with metal gears are recommended G C have a good selection but some are to deep ( the ones like mg90 have a bottom bearing that extends the case size). I have the Corona DS-939 MG to hand ,just right for this model. Just in case you hadn't noticed the first servo blocks are mounted directly behind the rear of the mast plates. . Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 15:17:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Just to recap the fusalage should now look somthing like this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Crane Fly Autogyro Fitting the third former Note the two holes to allow servo leads into the front section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Going to order some wood for this once I see everything you need. Is the lite ply 1.5mm??CheersSimon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 HI Simon The balsa cabin is a a good place to buy from and compare prices a sheet of 2mm x 12" x 24" sheet of lite ply is currently quoted at £2 49. 2mm is the thickness I have used were lite ply is specified. Thanks for the question its brought to light an omission in that the lite ply thickness is not mentioned in previous pages. Tom. Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 04/01/2012 23:49:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Posted by Tom Wright 2 on 03/01/2012 23:48:37: Crane Fly Autogyro Basic fuselage material amended list Note al lite ply is 2mm thickness.. Qty one...1/2" x 1/4" x 30" spruce (fus boom) Qty one...1/4" x 1/4" x 10" spruce (mast) subject to change Qty one...1/4" x 1/4" x 14" spruce (mast back stay) Qty one...16" x 2 1/4" lite ply (floor) Qty six...2 1/4" x 2 1/2" lite ply (formers) Qty two...2 1/2" x 9" light ply (sides) Qty one...standard length 3mm piano wire (undercarriage) Qty two...sponge wheels 70mm or nearest diameter. Med cyno...The GC stuff works well and is good value.Can use PVA instead but if your ok with cyno it makes the build much quicker . Various scraps of balsa from your bits box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 hi Tom great build really enjoying it, but please go to sleep at some point, I reckon you started this build at around 2am today and you are still at it! Such enthusiasm! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 HI Danny. I don't often suffer insomnia ,but do tend to be a night bird ,peace and quiet is the key. Now last night was one of those nights when no amount of counting models at the field could induce a bit of shut eye ,so as I cant do with idle inactivity ,modeling filled the gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wright 2 Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 HI Danny. I don't often suffer insomnia ,but do tend to be a night bird ,peace and quiet is the key. Now last night was one of those nights when no amount of counting models at the field could induce a bit of shut eye ,so as I cant do with idle inactivity ,modeling filled the gap. Cheers Tom. Thats interesting did an edit and got two posts ? Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 05/01/2012 00:50:26 Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 05/01/2012 00:51:52Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 05/01/2012 00:56:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyS Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hi Tom, Looks like a straightforward build. I'm looking forward to joining in but I'll wait until I know what the complete materials list is as I'd like to get it all in one go to save postage (which mounts up if you buy in bits and bobs). Sadly I don't have a massive parts bin..! So far I've got spruce spars, liteply, and the u/c. From reading the posts I think I'm going to need some carbon and I'm sure I'll need something to complete the rotor linkages…. T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat (rActive) Harbord Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Hmm, I have 6 large sheets of 6mm blue foam. I think I will have a go with these with the addition of some ply reinforcement here and there.Keep up the good work Tom.Is anyone else building yet? I must say its likely to be Feb before I get to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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