Adrian Day Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 well i went to my local shop today and ordered a 8x4 prop and bought a prop adapter so now just waiting for that to come in and wait for the rest of the goods to turn up for G.C Really looking forward to getting on with the cowling and motor section.. its looking pretty good today.. Steve did you get any testing done today..? Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I did.......!!! A root through the drawers discovered several suitable props so with the motor screwed to a bit of wood & clamped in my Workmate we were ready to begin..... Air temperature at time of testing was....not a lot......it was bloomin' freezing so only a short test was envisaged before a warming cup of tea!!!! Props on test were 9x4.7 slow fly, a 8x6 slow fly, 8x6 APC "e" 8x5 Master "e" & an 8x4 APC "e".... I used a 2S 1800mAh battery that had been fully charged earlier in the day..... The results were remarkably similar......all the props consumed around 13.5A at just under 7 volts for a total output of low 90's watts except the 8 x 4 which as might be expected pulled a bit less for 74 watts at 10.5A & just over 7 volts. All the readings were taken after a few seconds of running so should be seen as an absolute maximum.....its also worth noting that these figures will decrease when the model is in the air..... Subjectively the 9" prop seemed to move the most air which again should probably be expected.... I'm confident that any & all of these props would fly the model with authority.....personally I think I will be starting off with the 9" & see how we get on....it might be a bit much but I always like a bit in reserve in case the model gets a bit far downwind.....I know I can power it back towards me.....& I don't have to use full power ALL the time.... Incidentally a quick scoot around the internet revealed that the quality control of these motors is less than brilliant with the result being a few variations in the kv of the motor....they seem to range from around 1400 to 1700 which is a bit worrying!! Anyway Adrian your 8x4 should be just fine & you have the option of going a bit bigger if you feel the need for a bit more waft.......is it a slow fly type? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 a well deserved cuppa there Steve sometimes its way to cold for tests I'm really very grateful for your braving the elements.. sound like a reasonable power from your results .. will start with the 8x4 but will invest in a little bigger to try out see what happens.. not sure on the price as yet but yes its a slow-fly propeller have asked if they can get some more wood in to for the next one of these i build not liking the internet talk of it not being that great now i have ordered it thats quite a gap 1400 - 1700 but lets hope its the better side of things thank you for everything Steve much appreciated . TODAY got the landing gear made this morning and glued the locating rods in place in the wings its coming together pretty well just working out if the wheels i have are going to be any good.. as the are only 1.5inch but i cant find wheels with the right inside diameter for the size wire use.. dont like that run around on wheels i like a true fit inside diameter with wire.. camera on charge so should be some snaps as i keep saying will update Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Adrian, If the holes in the wheels are too big for the axles, I have a root about for a bit of tube to act as sleeves between the wheel hubs and the axles. How about the plastic sleeving from a length of old electrical wire? Just a thought..... tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 The internet ramblings I found all agreed that the mechanics of the motor (bearings etc) were fine but there seems to be the odd wind or two extra sneaks into the coils occasionally.....mine is fine & I'm sure yours will be too...... Oh & just a little point......the twin grub screws that hold the motor to the mounting are actually made of Edam...or possibly an Edam/Cheddar alloy..........make sure you use a very well fitting allen key..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 well fingers crossed i hope it will be .. its always good when what you get at a good price works well.. thank you for the heads up on the screw head. just got a new set of keys so will make sure i test fit to find the best onegood to know in advance.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Sorry Tim didnt notice your msg there page loaded on Steves post. i didnt think about that idea i will try that now .. i have 2 inch lights so will give it look see what i can come up with do you think using a bit of push rod inner would do it.. if none grooved it would push over think its a 2 mm inside for the screw thread rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Posted by Steve Hargreaves on 18/01/2012 09:27:44:I Incidentally a quick scoot around the internet revealed that the quality control of these motors is less than brilliant with the result being a few variations in the kv of the motor....they seem to range from around 1400 to 1700 which is a bit worrying!! Not at all surprising, or uncommon TBH, another reason why I still believe that anybody dabbling with electric flight should invest in a wattmeter - its the only sure way to tell whats going on before that first flight. I cant really see why - especially these days as they are so inexpensive - anyone wouldnt have one.... after all, many of the IC brigade use a rev counter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Tim M I Agree with you there working out that i can get everything for the plane for a small sum like £20.95 for everything. any one can afford it. so getting a watt meter at only £14 isnt a sad price to spend when you could fry 1 -2 -3 motors or esc find out the hard way thats going to be even more money lost. that and even a model well pictures have been taken so they will online in next 5 mins will post soon Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 well here are some updated pictures of the build so far .. hope it looks ok ..?? more to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Excellent quality, Adrian! I really like that shade of blue, accented by the white. I'd suggest you do the side, rear and top glazing on the fuselage, before covering. The windscreen can be done after the top of the nose is covered. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thank you Tim i was a little lost where to start next i was going to ask you ..if you hadnt put something in here just a odd idea you say to do the glazing next i have some plastic for that but was thinking would clear covering be anygood or would that look a little tacky ??? and would you have any suggestions on the body and wing colouring still blue and white but any thing stand out design wise Im still working out how to do the wording yet too. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Looking good Adrian........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Thank you Steve its taking time longer than i wanted but time taken is time well spent i always say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 What's the rush.....it's a Hobby...take your time & enjoy it....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 i have 4 planes on the build board i just love getting hands on with building.. and seeing the finished product. stand back and say i would do that different of that different .. then build another one i just love wood work.. and making something from nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Adrian, I was advising doing the glazing next because then the glazing is actually stuck to the balsa structure itself, and not on top of covering film - far more permanent! If you go this way, then be careful not to have your iron turned up too high when attaching the edge of the covering to the acetate - it can distort fairly easily under the heat! Using a clear film is something I haven't tried (although I'm sure it's been done before), but it won't worlk on the curver front screen for obvious reasons! tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 And I can recommend this stuff for attaching the glazing.....takes a while to dry but by God does it stick plastics...... Also as a keen builder you might like to look at this Laser etched micro razor saws that fit a No 3 scalpel handle...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Thank you guys ... Tim I think that's the best way to do it got to have a good contact don't really want the glazing taking its own flying lesson.. On the covering to acetate front would you do it the you only contact it to half the balsa edge so that you have the other half for the covering to stick to .. or does it look better with it slightly covering the acetate to give a clean edge?? was thinking of using it on the top and sides but use acetate on rear and front not sure.. my pet-hate is glazing it never goes perfect.. for some reason.. last thing Tim .. some reason I'm having a problem with the wings staying in place.. its fine till I add the struts under the wing then it pushes them out or off centre.. I have cut a set shorter and its still not doing what i think it should , anything you would recommend? Steve Thanks for the links they will come in very useful I need both for sure.. I have some canopy glue its not great but its not failed me just yet .. but when I run out I think may have to get your suggestion if it has proven useful to others then its got to be worth a try at that price. how did you know i have a no'3 scalpel perfect looking tooling its hard to find handy item's like that Well on the build front seems that things have hit a stop for a day.. just got email from G.C as I'm a new member and using a new debit card its taken a day to process my payment so they are sending out my order today ... hope it gets here before weekend Has anyone ordered from G.C and done the standard postal delivery...if so how long has it taken for yours to arrive want to work on the wings being held before i do much more? if anyone else knows a way?? I would be interested in your comments Adrian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 GC are really quick.....its not unusual for the parcel to arrive almost as soon as you click on the "pay now" button..... No not really but they are pretty good.....I would bet a burned out ESC that your parcel will arrive tomorrow...... So a whole weekend of building, fettling & general confusion in prospect...... Just another quick thought.....if you are a Futaba user you will probably have to reverse the throttle channel (channel 3) to get the ESC to work in the correct sense. Also do all your "playing" with the motor/ESC set up with the prop off.....saves your fingers & also prevents the model setting off across the bench like a scalded cat before smashing itself to bits against the far wall of the workshop when you accidentally nudge the throttle open with it all connected.......no I'd rather you didn't ask me how I know this.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 now you have brightened up my day i can just picture how you found out the hard way and how fast you moved in the process .. sorry shouldn't be laughing .thanks for that info .. I hope they do I have plans for the weekend and some building is in there .. I want to get the top of the cowling in place to make it look more plane like .. and to work out the engine mounting that's one to think about .. ... Nodding in agreement to the confusion part too..but its all worth it when I see it fly .. well at the moment I'm working on the tx + rx . as I only have a Sanwa set at the moment old style not 2.4 .. so I think that will be my next payment buy a new one .. money not on my sideWish I could pick up a little second hand one for this model but that's going to have to wait. just so much i need ....charger, watt meter, radio gear.. its never ending thanks for the info on the G.C Was thinking it would get here in 3 days but with the hold ups on payments then its looking 4-5 its all build time wasted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hooper Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Adrian. I try to maximise on contact area when it comes to glazing, so the acetate covers the whole width of the balsa. The covering is laid on top of that and also covers the whole width. Re; the wings coming out. Sounds like your wings are a very easy fit in the tubes? Could be the fit needs to be a bit more of an 'interference' fit? Try a small blob of CA glue on the wing dowel. When it's thoroughly dry, you can gently sand it down to fit the tube. In flight, the weight of the model hangs on the wings obviously, so gravity will try to push the wings into the fuselage tubes. tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Day Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 Well that's an odd one . door bell just went and 3 guesses WOOOHOOO its all here .. motor, ESC, servos, battery WELL HAPPY looks like I can get on with things now. Tim Thank you i thought that you was going to say that but had to make sure there.. the more surface you can get is always best. I have used metal inside metal so would that be the reason? as its all I had can i do the same as you said maybe rough it up a little ?? well now comes the hard part the motor mount angle / degree how do i work that out so its right?? always something to ask .. but by end of this i should know for the next one.. thats already planned>>>> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Hargreaves - Moderator Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Told you GC were pretty quick..... Off set of the motor centreline should be pretty easy to work out using 'O' level geometry....how much side thrust is there?? If we multiply the Tangent of this angle by the distance from the firewall to the prop driver that should tell us how much to offset the motor mounting centre line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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