Danny Fenton Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I was swapping E-Mails with a friend and they thought it might be a good idea for those that have used any techniques from the "scale matters" column, in February's RCM&E to show piccies of how they used the techniques. So if you have used RDS, or Fulcrum in a build, add a post or better still a piccie or two. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy watson Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Not yet, but I definately will. I agree completely with you about hanging stuff out of the airframe. Cheers Danny- that article was the highpoint of the mag for me this issue. I did wonder if there was considerable scope for slop in the RDS though- especially when run off a single servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Blimey Andy thanks where do I send the beer vouchers? we did agree on two didn't we CheersDanny I will have a play at running a single servo for the RDS on the Mustang wing when i start it and we will see. I cannot see it being as hard to get right as a belcrank setup. but some people have a lot of trouble with those. The servo per surface route, does rely on you being able to make an accurate "pocket" Edited By Danny Fenton on 16/01/2012 14:00:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galleyman Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Hi Danny, Great article for starters. Well done. Could you give me some more info on the top hats and the torque rod? On your video you indicated that the torque rod you had used was too small, so how do you gauge (no pun intended) the size of wire required? Lastly could you do an article on cockpits and how you make them look realistic? Thanks again, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Hi John, thnks for your support it is much appreciated. Glad you enjoyed it.Here is a drawing my friend Chris Bott did. We were toying with getting some massed produced but couldn't get anybody interested. Not for sensible money at least. The sizes are not too important as you could scale them to suit.It is quite clever how it assembles and was not made very clear in the article.The small 1mm recess under the top hat, allows the raised dimple on most servo disks to find somewhere to hide. You attach the top hat to the servo from the bottom, with the servo output disk removed. But you trap the normal servo arm retaining screw between the top hat and the disc. Slide the disc over the servo splines and then using a thinnish screwdriver down the piano wire hole do up the servo disc screw. Then attach the piano wire, and lock it with 2 grub screws, M3 on the drawing. The piano wire needs to be fairly stiff as its a torsional (?) load. I can't say how thick because it depends on the length and quality of piano wire. Put one end in a vice and see how easily you can twist a bent end, the length you intend to use obviously. If its springy it needs to be beefier.On the top hats we designed the hole is 2mm but could be drilled out for larger sizes quite easily. I will add cockpits to the list as I have a rather tasty Chad Veich designed Spitfire cockpit to do. Including some printed 3D resin parts. The one in the Hurricane is very simple. Believe it or not it's a print. Not a photograph. Its from a great aero artist. He does panels in cad, then weathers them. If there is interest then I can show how it was done. Thanks again for your feedback, it makes it all worth while.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galleyman Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hi Danny, thanks for detailed response. Assuming the length of the torque rod is max 65mm from hinge line to top hat, would a 2mm rod be a good starting point? Just trying to get a handle on a place to start. I have a 47" wingspan F4U Corsair that I have just started to build that I will try this system on before I get committed to the same system in the Hurricane. Re cockpits, yes, yes and yes Thanks Danny, great talking to you, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hi John, I think 2mm will probably be okay, I depends on the quality of the wire. Give it a twist and see. Thats a fairly short run so should work well. Make the pocket accurate, use a couple of offcuts of the piano wire to set the spacing. Also make sure you round the end of your piano wire, snips will flatten the wire slightly.Be aware that you can use RDS with top or bottom hinged surfaces, but it is a little more fiddly to get the geometry right. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil R Posted January 17, 2012 Share Posted January 17, 2012 Congrats on the new column Danny, and, having just ordered an RDS unit from the US, I can't wait to read your article. In the meantime I'm trying to make sense of a statement I've read which states that the optimum angle for the longer part of the torque rod is 50 deg (top view) to the hinge line. It''s all a good test of your geometry visualisation skills - I can see me also making a mock up! Based on discussions elsewhere, I'd love to see a future article on DIY computer cutting for stencils & markings. Regards, Neil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Hi Neil and thanks for the feedback. I am not sure where that angle came from. I think I quote 45 degrees to the hingeline for the main part of the rod if you want to have large throws such as 45+ degrees for flaps. I will probably use RDS for the Mustang flaps when I get to them so will cover it again. In the TN Spitfire I did they are perpendicular and the "knee" about 40 degrees??Okay, thats a good subject I can certainly look at the stencil cutting. The plotter/cutters have been mentioned in mag's before but they have looked at cutting lettering etc from film. There is a whole "other" area that they can be used for which nobody has touched on and that is for making detailing in Aluclad. I will certainly add it to the list. Somebody on here (can't remember who sorry) suggested cutting tissue on the plotter for trim on tissue and dope models. Thanks for your feedback much appreciated. CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galleyman Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Hi Danny, how about a bit on flaps? how do you make half flaps as you show on your video? How are they hinged? What materials do you use? What size servo's etc.? How do you hide the control mechanism for elevator and rudders? Thanks, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 Danny, What did I read about beer vouchers??? I have RDS installed into my Beechcraft Bonanza - as you may remember. By the way - for RDS it is not necessary to leave the continent - as you find it also at Graupners accessories in 3 different sizes - price approx 15£. Much more fun is to make it yourself - costs very little if you have the necessary machines and tools. John - have a look into my Bonanza build - there you find some stuff about the flaps. You find the thread here Cheers VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 Cheers VA I did put a link in the article to Graupners website and mentioned that they did them. Yes I remember you doing the RDS on your Bonanza, I copied your flap actuation, worked a treat, though alas was never used in flight. I will get you a beer at Greenacres Hi John, I can cover the flap construction if you are interested. You guys have to tell me what you want to see. Did anybody look up the Charniere Swingee? This device turns a fore and aft pulling motion int an up and down motion of the trailing edge of the hinge. Very clever device......BUT..... I have an interesting story about a similar product...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vecchio Austriaco Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 We are waiting in patience.... not for the beer of course... VA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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