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Aerokote Fuel Proofer problem


Djay
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Stuey, I followed the instructions ie about 35drops of catalyst to 25 ml of Aerokote. I started to brush it on as quick as I could expecting to harden as quickly as glass fibre resin, but I needn't have bothered because it was still tacky for several days. Glad I wasn't temped to try and remove it during that time, would have made a right old mess of it.
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  • 7 years later...

I just found this thread from a while ago and noticed the exact same problems with acid catalysed PU, this time though it was Sadolin PV67. Being reluctant to try it on a model without testing it first, I mixed a small batch to try and I brushed it onto a few cans and jar tops. I had the same problem of it not going hard although it wasn't sticky it could easily be removed with a thumb nail after leaving a few days to set. I even put a test piece in a UV chip eraser to see if the theory about UV cross-linking was true but it made no difference. Next I made up a batch and added about 15% hardener instead of the 10% as instructed this made a dramatic difference. I seems like the acid catalyst is somehow weaker than it should be. If it can be trusted to set properly it should make a great fuelproofer with a really glossy finish which self levels from brushing so no need to spray. The advantage with this kind of chemical is that the pot life is much longer then the setting time once painted on the the surface so I will always test the mix on a piece of scrap and see how it hardens before applying it to a model.

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I wonder if they have played with the formula. Years ago I used tuffcote which was a similar 2 pack system. Furniglass hardset was Probably the same stuff. Furniglas seemed to disappear and tiff core was changed. I believe it was a nasty chemical issue. The new tiff vote was fine but I think ripmax discontinued it years ago. I have since used aerocote and had no issues with it apart from the fact it would not stick to some paints .

acrylic I believe.Tuffcite and aerocote are the only products that I have found truly fuel proof. Now it looks from this that they have changed it. Being a savage I have never been scientific in the mix with no issues

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Posted by Ian Jones on 30/07/2013 17:13:03:

Slightly off the original subject but still a problem I had when I tried aerokote - the vapours. I applied it by brush in my garage with the up & over door fully open. I was about 5 feet from the opening but still ended up feeling sick and dizzy.

I'd like to use the rest of it but I'm very reluctant - how does eveyone else deal with this?

Ian

Reading back on this thread - this is may be a high VOC product which suggests a mask of the right type may be necessary. I’m no chemist or even an expert on the subject but learnt the hard way. I used an unrelated high VOC product indoors a couple of years back and it triggered a 2 month long asthma episode. Not a good place to be. My guideline now is to use water based products only. It creates a few challenges but I use such as Ronseal Diamond hard varnish. It sprays well and is water based.
S

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Posted by Doc Marten on 02/11/2020 13:54:59:

Did you mix by volume or weight?

Doc, I mixed by volume as you are supposed to. In the pack you get 1litre of resin and 100ml of hardener which makes it difficult to use the whole pack. I did however add the extra hardener from some spare from an AeroKote kit which made it set as it's supposed to.

 

Edited By Andy Stephenson on 02/11/2020 21:53:26

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...

Reading back on this thread - this is may be a high VOC product which suggests a mask of the right type may be necessary. I’m no chemist or even an expert on the subject but learnt the hard way. I used an unrelated high VOC product indoors a couple of years back and it triggered a 2 month long asthma episode. Not a good place to be. My guideline now is to use water based products only. It creates a few challenges but I use such as Ronseal Diamond hard varnish. It sprays well and is water based.
S

Stuart, were you spraying or brushing the high VOC product that triggered your reaction.

A.

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