Andy Stephenson

KK You could try these guys... https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/servicing/

Exchanged characters was a warning that came out years ago where one from a foreign character set, like Cyrillic, was substituted that looks almost like a Roman one but leads you off in the wrong direction.

Simon, Before you decide I should mention that it does not appear to have any control input. It just plugs into a 5 to 7.4V supply and continuously fires off various length bursts of machine-gun bursts. You would need to control on/off function through a receiver relay/switch. It's seems very loud in the workshop.

The trick is to float the mouse cursor over any link that appears in an email and see the actual undisguised link, most email clients and browsers will show this on a PC. If it looks nothing like the company's address don't click on it.

Simon, To you, £5 posted. Cheers, Andy.

It's likely that even if you point the antenna directly at a distant model, the Tx signal will be reflected off any metallic object in the vicinity which will reach the receiver by a different route. Also, the radiation pattern from a single Tx antenna isn't textbook perfect and there will be odd lobes of radiation coming off in different directions. Another thing to consider is that 2.4GHz receivers are far more sensitive than the old MHz ones. All this adds up to make the link as solid as it can be or should be, barring any other technical shortcomings.

FIFY

Also don't run the antenna wire in close parallel to other wires.

Or you could just use a brand that doesn't need satellite receivers.

There are after market receivers made to be compatible with certain popular makes of radio. FRSky are particularly regarded in this. They also manufacture their own full systems to their own protocols.

The TFR6 is a Fasst receiver so any Fasst Transmitter will work with it even if it doesn't have all 7 channels.

I use the FRSky TFR6 which is actually a 7 channel receiver. They are bulletproof. I have used them in models of all sizes.

SMC fuel seems a much more sensible price... https://www.southernmodelcraft.co.uk/fuel-prices.php

Jonathan, I run my 2stroke engines on Laser standard 5% or Opti 5%. Now Southern Modelcraft is under new management I mean to give their fuels a try.

My first properly successful multi channel model was a DB Tinker powered by a Webra 1.5cc Diesel. It was so under powered and flew so slowly that I managed to teach myself to fly completely unaided. That's Boddo's magic. I had the pleasure of introducing him at a talk he gave at a meeting of our club a few years ago.

Covergrip is only for iron-on film or fabric which is what Balsaloc was for so it should make for an acceptable alternative.

My order of bearings arrived shortly after I made the post above. Two engines rebuilt this morning. I shall be ordering from Simply Bearings again.

Deluxe Materials Covergrip.

Valve clearances? Broken valve springs? Wrong timing?

I ordered some bearings from Simply Bearings but I typed in the wrong email address when I set up an account so I didn't know if it had worked. They sorted it out for me within a couple of emails. I don't know many companies who even read their emails let alone answer them and quickly. First class service from Simply Bearings.

Repeated repositioning, yes, but not the odd one due to nerves.

From... THE R/C ACHIEVEMENT SCHEME GUIDANCE for AREA CHIEF EXAMINERS Many Examiner candidates (and existing Examiners) have the attitude that some of the flying tests in the achievement scheme are “aerobatics” and must be flown as a strict schedule with no deviations, very much like an FAI competition schedule. This is absolutely wrong and you must be aware of candidates who are convinced that this is the case.

It isn't a schedule and shouldn't be treated as one. If you feel you are not in the correct position to start a manoeuvre then you can simply fly another circuit but tell your examiner what you are doing.

It's often misleading when engine weights are published, they usually leave off the weight of the silencer so you need to check whether this is included or not.

I am shortening the nose on my Dave Smith Models Joker 60 to get the balance right and I have lost the original instructions. I tried to cut a precise amount from the front but I can't be certain how accurate this is. Is there any info on the engine thrust line on this model or the original Matt design. The only data I can find online is for the Joker 25 which has 1.5° downthrust and 2°sidethrust but it also shows 0.5°wing incidence which I believe should be zero on the 60 size so it may not translate. Does anyone have this info to hand. Thanks, Andy.