Phil Winks Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Posted by Mike Hardy on 04/06/2013 15:07:58: Guys, Wing centre section (Phil's Mod) under side cap strip - 1/8 balsa, is it left square edges or rounded? does this cap strip grain run 'front to back' or as per wing?. Thanks, Mike. I think you must be refering to the under wing sheet mike I rounded my edges of to match the fuse profile fore and aft of the wing, also I laid this sheet on with grain running fore and aft Trust this helps mate Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Yeah - same as Phil. Slightly round the edges and grain fore and aft. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 I've actually been able to put a few hours in today. After deciding to fit the u/c to the "Seacano" a couple of days ago I ran it up preparatory to flying expedition number two when the motor ripped out and flew across the garden, busting the canopy that was lying on the patio table on the way! Quite spectacular! At the beginning of this project there was a discussion about mounting the motor front or rear and I decided to go front, because I'd always done it that way. I also remember Nigel commenting about the poor quality of the CNC cut 6mm ply motor plate and deciding not to use it. I thought that mine was ok and did use it. Oh dear, the reason that the motor went awol was because the plate had de-laminated and separated from the fuselage! Good job it didn't do it in the air a few days before! First thought was to make a new motor plate from decent ply, but then I saw sense and did what the other more intelligent Tucano builders had already done and went for the rear fixing option. So I cut 40mm off the nose and fitted a 6mm ply motor mount with plenty of substantial support. I've had to do some re-working on the cowling but it's done now, put filler in the gaps and ready for rubbing down and re-painting where necessary, not much to do! I had already got a spare canopy fortunately. I checked the the current drain on full bat and found it was showing 56/57 Amps and 620/670 Watts on a 10x7 prop. (I'm not planning to go bigger)Looks as if I'll be flying around on 1/4 throttle! So back on track, should finish the cosmetics tomorrow. Hopefully I can fly it again by the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Hawes Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Colin - I'm not surprised your motor mounting former delaminated, the material they have cut it from and supplied in the CNC pack is shockingly poor. I just hope others don't have the same problem, especially in flight where props can behave very differently than during ground runs... That said, the front of the model was designed for 200-250 watts from geared buggy motors at the time and was marginal with the 300 watts of the then new AXI 2820/210; even beefed up I think anything above 500 watts would be pushing it! The rear mounting is definitely the way to go for high power applications, and for anyone who has used the motor mounting plate in the CNC pack I would recommend paying particular attention to fine prop balance as delamination can happen very quickly with vibration. Nigel Hawes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 I've seen somewhere on here a mod for the nose wheel fitment using M3 cap screws to hold the saddles in place. Can't find it!! - can anybody give me a clue where to look? Thanks, Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Nigel, thank you. I've learned my lesson and it looks as if I'll need to do some re- work on the Seafang. Instinctively I don't like the overhang in front of the bearing, but it's working and I don't need convincing that it's safer. Mike, I think that what you are after is in Phil Winks's build blog. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Posted by Mike Hardy on 06/06/2013 09:52:35: I've seen somewhere on here a mod for the nose wheel fitment using M3 cap screws to hold the saddles in place. Can't find it!! - can anybody give me a clue where to look? Thanks, Mike. Hi mike it was my nose wheel you saw somewhere on this page of my thread Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Thanks Colin and Phil. Phil, just what sort of tool/machine do you use to get those 'text book' rebates I cannot believe they are 'hand crafted'!! Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Hi Mike they are done using a mini craft drill (Old style dremel) in a stand that allows me to double it up as a router, Router work needn't be the preserve of experience carpenters and joiners it is quite simple once a little pratice is under your belt Learning to A go steady and B wich way to attack a cut ie:from left to right, are the main skills setting up is often a case of common sense I,d recomend a rotary tool of this sort to anyone making from plans the range of attachments is awesome from drills through sanders, grinders, cut of discs right through to router cutters one with a good quality chuck bearing is essential and a bonus is one with variable speed Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Thanks Phil, I use a dremel 4000, so do I use the 335 plunge router attachment and and 3.2mm bit. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 7, 2013 Share Posted June 7, 2013 Posted by Mike Hardy on 07/06/2013 21:08:41: Thanks Phil, I use a dremel 4000, so do I use the 335 plunge router attachment and and 3.2mm bit. Mike. Exactly what you need for this Job mike nice one This one looks a good price though you may find better link Phil Edited By Phil Winks on 07/06/2013 21:24:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 hjave to k Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 08/06/2013 23:01:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Very nice Colin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I agree Colin hoping mine goes ok on its maiden tomorrow just need this wind to stsy down lol Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Photos of the "Seacano"above were taken today, four excellent flights in very gusty conditions, first since I fitted the undercarriage and re-engineered the engine mounting into the rear position. It's very over powered, you have to reduce power rapidly after take-off or it would be out of sight vertically frighteningly quickly. I was concerned that 3000 mah might be marginal for duration, but it takes so little throttle to do everything that it may well be sufficient. After 6 minutes of aerobatics, followed by two consecutive landings, take-offs and circuits, it was still giving full power so I'm probably going to get a good 10 minutes. If I want more, I can go to the 2x2200mah option, but it looks as if I might not need it and the lighter weight is clearly helpful. I want to do a bit of cosmetic touching up after carving it up in the last few days, but that's very little and we're ready for Greenacres. Very much looking forward to it. I'll definitely be there on the Saturday and the Sunday is possible too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Nice to hear from you Wolston and Phil. No question, this is an excellent design by Nigel, flying qualities are very good. Good luck tomorrow Phil, I don't think that you'll be disappointed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I'm sure I won't Colin camera's all ready to so hopefully some good in flight shots too proper test for the new camera too maybe even some HD video too if I'm lucky (why don't we have a fingers crossed emoticon ?) Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Very nice Colin! A handsome beast! BEB PS best of luck for tomorrow Phil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 That site looks very like Fradley to me Colin, am I right? Well done with the model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 Thank you BEB, I wanted it to look a bit different and am pleased with it. Martin, you're right, it's Fradley, home of the Sutton Coldfield Radio Comtrol Aeroplane Club, (SCRCAC). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 Thought so. I was a member for twenty odd years. Recognised the old air raid shelter. Oh for those lovely tarmac runways again. Flew aerobatics today from the hallowed Barkston main runway for the first time in 34 years which brought back a few distant memories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 9, 2013 Share Posted June 9, 2013 It's still a great site Martin, although as the old airfield sadly disappears (sigh) under the growing industrial estate it seems to be less remote than it used to be and perhaps we won't be there for ever. I think we've got a few more years yet though. Hope to see you at Greenacres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hardy Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Hi, Another question: The nose bottom sheet.- the drawing note states 3/8" balsa yet the drawing shows a maximum thickness of 1/2". Which is correct? Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 I used 1/2" and sanded it to shape. if you used 3/8" perhaps the profile might not come out right, but it wouldn't be far off and not matter too much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Winks Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Posted by Mike Hardy on 13/06/2013 15:48:53: Hi, Another question: The nose bottom sheet.- the drawing note states 3/8" balsa yet the drawing shows a maximum thickness of 1/2". Which is correct? Mike. I too used 1/2 inch Mike and to be fair I think I could've added another 3/16th to that 3/8ths is a tad to slim in my opinion Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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