James B Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I've got what seems to be the simplest of problems regarding the attachment of the parachute. I've trawled the Internet and watched numerous videos on youtube, but I can't for the life of me work out how to attach the parachute. To me, it seems that the 'chute will deploy once I release the bungee, is there some technique of rigging it so it only deploys once the glider leaves the hook? Or is it meant to deploy so that it acts as a break of sorts? Its got me stumped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 In the past, the monofilament would be attached to key ring at the base of the parachute using a bloodknot. Apparently favoured by fishermen as it reduces the strength of the line only marginally. If however you are asking what stops the parachute opening whilst the model is on the line, it is quite simple. Line tension. It is not unusual if using the bungee to the maximum, to have to dive the model to get it of the line. The dive and immediate up elevator was called pinging the model. By this technique, extra height can be gained. When there is little wind, it was usual to weave the model on the line, this would often be quite vigorous, to maintain tension, and keep the models speed up. In windy weather, the model will often go behind you as the tension goes even higher, this needs careful managing to prevent the rubber or surgical tubing or the line breaking. Some down elevator is needed. What is common on all conditions, is that it is the line tension which keeps the parachute closed. Although very common in the good old days of field gliding, very rarely seen today, electric gliders being the norm. If a line is used, it is most usually power winches that are seen. I have seen a bungee used once now in about 5 years. In fact we all moaned and groaned about his line getting in the way of the rest of us, much to his annoyance. Whist the the bungee user waxed lyrical of the purity of operation, the rest went home while he toiled to get the bungee wound up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 James, The chute just goes in-line with the nylon cord at the glider end of the bungee. Tie it on the end, attach the towring to the top of the chute and off you go. While the line is under tension the chute stays closed (it really does!). As soon as the tension eases off, or the line drops from the model, the chute opens - easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James B Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Ahhh, makes sense now. So the keyring is attached to the top of the 'chute, the guidelines are then attached to the line, so essentially the chute is part of the system. I thought it was just hooked on near the end of the line. I'll have to change the parachute though, I had intended to use a Estes plastic rocket one I had lying round, don't think that will be up to the job if its taking the tension! Also, the reason I'm using a bungee is because a Slingsby Swallow wouldn't look quite right with a prop on the front Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I've just aquired a X Models Whisper 2m mouldie which comes with a removeable tow hook and I've been thinking about getting a bungee to get her up from a local flat field when I don't have the time to drive to the slopes. A mate got one from ebay but he wasn't impressed with the quality, but then others I've Googled have been about £50, which seems a bit steep, especially as they didn't have a chute included. Steve A470Soaring.blogspot.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Is there a collective name for a group of Steve Houghtons ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 I have just had a look at my old rubber bungee. I have a fishing line swivel in mine. The reason being, is that the parachute can spin when released. The swivel stops the line becoming twisted. My parachute does not take the line tension, there is a line which goes straight throw the hole in the centre of the shute, with a key ring on it. The line which goes through has a stop disc on it, positioned to close the parachute when the line is under tension. When the tension comes of the line, this part then goes slack and allows the parachute to open. I think that this arrangement was quite common when literally hundreds of launches would take place in a club session, where a parachute taking all the tension would quite quickly suffer wear. I would also urge that a screwdriver is not used as a stake. A doggy screw in stake is much safer. I have seen screwdrivers used, now and then, they can come out. Usually there is not much of an issue. Yet any one near if this happens could be in trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Posted by Steve Houghton on 22/06/2012 14:34:42: Is there a collective name for a group of Steve Houghtons ? Yes, its a Huff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Steve, Perhaps we should have a TV show like Dave Gorman's to search for others! Sorry, James - back on topic. The chute is also the main part to hold while the line is being tensioned and attached to the model, so a plastic one may not be up to the job. A good quality one will survive more scrunching and stretching, whether you use the chute lines to carry tension or use Erfolg's method of by-passing the chute lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Steve All the non electric mouldies I see, are all winch launched. They go up the line as a missile. Though they all are F3b models. To be safe (given the high cost of the model) you need a good pull on your bungee, with a good working length, that is a long high tension pull. Not as the bungee cord types, which gave a high, but short pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James B Posted June 22, 2012 Author Share Posted June 22, 2012 Thanks for all the quick responses, I think I'll give Erfolg's method a go. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Ahh I have become confused, mixing up Steve with James. I can see that some one who spends circa £1,000 on a model glider, would not be highly experienced. Where I assume that James is starting out. Best of luck James, as with most things, the more you do, the easier it becomes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Yes Erfolg, but which Steve were you mixed up with - I work with 4 others, so I understand the problems! Never likely to have £1000 for a mouldie myself, so will just enjoy the satifaction of launching the work of my own fair hands into the sky! James, there is of course the option of a simple towline, if you can find a willing volunteer runner. There's something to be said for the simplicity we enjoyed 20-30 years ago. My Dad was a great runner when I started gliding in my 'teens (big cheer for supportive Dads). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Ay, Tom, wend thee would protect themselves fromt sun width old chip fat, rubbed well in, knotted kerchiefs ont head. Those wert the days. Boddingtons have long gone, now it is Ambre Solaire, and Sol, with a slice of lime. We had true athletes then, int NW, all capable of the three "T's" in record times, the thundredyards, thiyh jump and thurdles. Ay, those were the days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton 1 Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 Posted by Erfolg on 22/06/2012 17:11:39: Ahh I have become confused, mixing up Steve with James. I can see that some one who spends circa £1,000 on a model glider, would not be highly experienced. Where I assume that James is starting out. Best of luck James, as with most things, the more you do, the easier it becomes. £1000!!!! I wish I had £1000 to spend on a model. My Whisper cost me £150 complete with servo's, second hand of course, and it's only been flown once apparrantly. My other mouldie, a 1.5m Baudis Banana cost me £180 complete but for a RX. But I would like a Airtech Jedi 5, which new would probably cost me around the £750 mark, so I shall look for a 2nd hand one once I've saved some more pennies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 Seems you have got a bargain for a mouldie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 23, 2012 Share Posted June 23, 2012 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.