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wiring problems


Roy Hill 3
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Help! This is my first attempt at electric flying and I already have a problem.I have aquired a pre-built but unflown Taylorcraft 80inch span aircraft. It has a Tornado Thumper 6374, a 10s lipo and a Hacker x80 installed. It is wired in a very confused way. Can some-one please explain how it should be done before I lose the plot. Roy

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Hi Roy,

Welcome to the forum. Plenty of friendly advice will be along shortly, I'm sure........smile

Anyway, you've certainly gone into leccy flight in a big way - 10S for starters, eh!smile o

My personal experience doesn't extend beyond 6S but it may help you to have a browse of the basics to get your head around things. This thread will give you an idea of the fundamental set up and there are many more threads in that part of the forum.

If you understand the basic set up and compare it with what you have, come back with a bit more info on what you have (pics may help) and the folk here will work their way through it.......thumbs up

Pete

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Looking on the internet this looks like it is an OPTO ESC which means that is doesn't supply power to the Rx to run the Rx and servos.

So wiring is as follows, 2 wires from the ESC to battery, red to red, black to black. 3 wires to the motor. Lead into throttle channel on your Rx, if it's futaba make sure you reverse the throttle or full throttle will be at idle.

Provide power supply to the Rx (separate battery), plug in power supply battery and check the motor rotation and operation before fitting the prop, you can use a smaller battery e.g. 3s to do this if you want. If motor runs in reverse direction then swap any two esc-motor wires as Tony says above. When all satisfied and model is fully set up then fit the prop. I would also recommend doing an amp check to make sure the prop you are using is not overloading the ESC or Motor. What size prop do you plan to use?

Be careful thats some powerful motor set up you've got there, over 4HP, so equivalent to a large petrol, just bear in mind that once the battery is connected, if you knock the throttle forward the motor will startup and unlike a petrol won't stop if something gets in it (at least until something burns out) and electric motors generate a lot of torque. Not sure how your battery the ESC connection is made but if that is just a straight plug in, be ready for the loud crack when you go to mate the connectors and it sparks between the connectors as the ESC capacitors charge up.

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Please, please, please remove the prop before any "testing"...a prop driven by a 10S battery can & will do some serious damage to flesh & bone if you get tangled up with it.

During set up it can be so easy to do something wrong & have the motor start up..... no I'd rather you didn't ask me how I know this..embarrassed but luckily I still have all ten fingers....

Be careful.....

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Thank you all very much. Problem solved! The builder had built in a hidden switch on the dashboard which appeared to be a thottle control! Polarity reversed between motor and ESC, as advised, and it all works perfectly. All I need to do now is get a copy of the the programming instructions from Hacker and it's off into the wild blue yonder. Once again, gents, a big THANK YOU. Roy

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Roy you can get them here.

I suspect the switch on the dashboard is in the ESC "servo" lead as an ESC won't arm until it sees the low throttle position signal from the Rx, bear in mind that if the ESC is switched off but still plugged in, while the motor won't run the ESC will still pull a few milliamps, if you left the battery plugged in for an extended period after flying there is a chance that you could overdischarge the lipo and damage it.

Enjoy the maiden though I've seen one of these fly on a 50cc petrol and it was delightfull. While the largest electrics i have are only 4s size, I do find it's best to slowly advance the throttle on take off to minimise any torque roll.

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