JayCee Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Hi This Flair SE5A is my first traditional build and I have a problem with the wing build. The wing tip is made up from two pre-formed pieces, the larger piece leading to the leading edge doesn't reach...there is a gap. The plan appears to show an in-fill of some sort but there is nothing mentioned in the instructions, any ideas? Also I have two other pieces which I cant find a home for, any help would be appreciated. JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 It may of course just be the angle at which your pic is taken, but it looks to me from the first two pics - looking at the line on the plan that's visible behind the rear edge of the L.E. - that you may possibly have positioned the L.E. slightly ahead of where it should be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbflyer Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 My experience is that one will find discrepancies like this all over pre cut kits as I have done in the past. The way forward is simple, insert a small piece of nominally 1/8th balsa to bridge the gap and carry on building! The two individual pieces are difficult to position as shown there. I suggest looking at wing tip shaping pieces. If I may, I will tell a story that my Father told me many, many years ago. As a young RAF technician in Canada, his task was to place into crates the component parts of Avro Ansons that were being built over there and then CKD'd (Completely Knocked Down). Each part was 'ticked off' as it was placed into the crates until all items had been loaded. The trick then was to find any sort of old iron or metal bits and throw them in the crate as well. When the aircraft was assembled in England after its trip by sea in its crate, all parts were accounted for and fitted except for the bits of angle iron etc which one presumed led to a bit of head scratching. I digress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 It's not unusual for pre-cut parts to differ marginally from the plan. There is no in-fill - the plan shows the l/e strip at 45deg, as you have done, and the extended l/e strip has the wingtip piece butted up to it. Just put a piece of scrap between the two, flattening the rear edge of the l/e strip for a better glue joint. It will disappear under the covering Can't help with pieces 34 though....... Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 The plan appears to show an in-fill of some sort but there is nothing mentioned in the instructions, any ideas? Also, are you sure that is an infil piece? The area you are pointing to with the arrow looks like the rear of the L.E. to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Firstly, thank you for your prompt response. <Also, are you sure that is an infil piece? The area you are pointing to with the arrow looks like the rear of the L.E. to me> Yes to me also, however the LE 9x9mm fits into a notch cut out in a pre formed wing Rib. The rear of the wing rib is the start point of the two pre formed wing tip pieces so for it not to match up the Wing ribs would have to be to long. Very Strange JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael cawood Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 i think you will find that the leading edge is a square section set as shown just below your "what is this " note. the wing tip will need veeing to fit to it.some scrap infill top and bottom would be sufficent to join to the leading edge Edited By michael cawood on 21/10/2012 12:02:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanN Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 Posted by JayCee on 21/10/2012 11:47:48: so for it not to match up the Wing ribs would have to be to long. JC I think that may well be the case. That would also account for your L.E. appearing to be slightly forward of where the plan seems to indicate it should be. Can't see the rib T.E. position on your pic - can you hold a rib against the plan anywhere to verify whether the ribs are oversize or not? It could be that the ribs needed trimming slightly at the T.E. Maybe too late for that now but using any of the suggestions above re using a bridge or scrap infil piece will solve it. NB though that will give you a very slightly extended wing chord. It might therefore pay to think ahead about that and measure your actual chord v the wing seat, to avoid potential future head scratching in that area Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted October 21, 2012 Author Share Posted October 21, 2012 Hi When everything was pinned into position it was only about 2mm so inserted a small piece of packing. Searched the web for Flair SE5A build found a couple of pictures of wings before covering and on one of those packing could be seen. so makes me feel better! Well nearly there, just have the final tip ribs to instal. The lower one gave the dimensions 18x3mm (stock) so that was easy. However, The top one gives 'Ribs Ex' 3X9 and 3X6 and shows a small plan section C-C There is no stock wood that size and no pre cut Riblets!....any ideas? Just to point out the picture makes it appear that the LE and wing tip don't line up with the plan, in fact they do spot on. There is a gradient fro zero to 6mm from TE to LE and the camera angle distorts the perspective JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Butler Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Jaycee, I think I've found out where your two extra parts 34 are for. If it's the same as the Puppeteer, these fit on the ribs adjacent to one of the spars and sandwich the metal strap to which you solder a nut to locate each end of the interplane struts - hence one for the upper wing and one for the lower. Have a look through the box, you should have a pair of each. What I did was file a slot on them and glue them into position and then the straps were epoxied in place once the wing was covered. Have a look on the plan, or one of the sheets that come with it for the position. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon Halve-Witte Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 JayCee- I am at this stage with my SE5a and it is excatly as you describe. I thought I had made an error somewhere but not so, the fault is in the kit. The building datum is taken from the trailing edge and the ribs, then you find wing tip doesn't fit, it's not your fault, it is too short. The building instructions do make an oblique refernce to the problem- 'when plans are printed slight distortions can occur and it is much more important that the spars fit the ribs than the drawings'. Bit of a catch all. I have also had problem with the plastic nose being wider than the finished fuselage, the die stamped formers should make it all parallel but the dammed thing is wider and not a flush fit, I just cannot work out why this has happenend... And don't get me on about formers 20 through 23, a ruddy nightmare. But it will all come together in the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert chamberlain Posted February 8, 2013 Share Posted February 8, 2013 hello,--I was thinking of building an SE5a and so far I have seen ads for the Flair and Balsa USA. Has anyone done a comparision betwee the two as to which is the better kit? Are there others anyone can suggest? Thanks, Bob C in Kansas,USA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 Hi and welcome to the forum. I can't give a comparison between the SE5 A kits as I have only built the Flair. However, I'm just finishing a USA Balsa 'Enidecker' so I can comment on the kit quality, obviously my opinion only! Firstly the USA Balsa kit has better instructions with loads of pictures but the hardware kit is extremely sparse, also the wood kit is not over generous. There are no push rods, no fuel tank no undercarriage fixings, no fixings for servos, all are included in the Flair kit. Also my die cut fuselage sides were 5/16" longer than shown on the plan!! I would go for the Flair every time, flies well, looks great! ......and now you have my great 'Build Blog' Edited By JayCee on 08/02/2013 11:42:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayCee Posted February 8, 2013 Author Share Posted February 8, 2013 ..........and now you have my great build blog **LINK** JC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jose Barbosa Posted July 15, 2013 Share Posted July 15, 2013 Hi JayCee, Congratulations for you nice models. I´m new to this site. Usually I build polystyrene airplane models and also design the 3D model. I want to begin with RC airplanes. Now, I´m building RAF SE5a, scale=1/72. However, I want to draw the 3D model frame in Balsa and then build the RC airplane. But I do not have the plans/blueprints or AutoCad 2D drawings !! Can you provide me them ? Please state a price and I will pay you. If you them in AutoCAD 2004 it will be wonderful, so you can send me by Email. Meanwhile, I attach a image of the current status of my 3D model. [IMG]http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b607/forbarbosaPT/RAFSE5a_1to72_Revell_45_V02_zpsae249ab0.jpg[/IMG] Kind Regards José Barbosa Portugal Email: [email protected] Web: **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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