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Reality Craft/ Planemaster


Myron Beaumont
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Received a replacement for my first purchase of one of these things ( 'cos the aileron function gave up on me) this afternoon .

An afternoon wasted .Can't get anything but my chosen aeroplane at high idle going along a runway with no control whatsoever .I am absolutely sick of digital stuff. Help!!! In simple language please ie Englishangry 2

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PPM is simply a description of the encoding mode your Tx is running in. There are 2 common modes: PPM and PCM. PPM stands for Pulse Position Modulation which is what all old Txs used. Then about 25 years ago we started moving to PCM - Pulse Code Modulation. For each channel, the bit of the Tx that "reads" the sticks and switches passes this info to the RF section for transmission. For each stick (axis) or switch it says what position it's in. For PPM this is done by the length and position of a pulse, and for PCM it's done digitally.

Many PCM sets can be switched into PPM mode. The USB converter that you are using to connect your Tx to the PC was expecting a PPM signal, not a (digital) PCM one.

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John

Just a slight problem I have in that the rudder seems to move full left or right -not proportionally .I can live with it but when using the throttle (mode 2) then any sideways twitch re-orientates the aircraft momentarily (if you see what I mean)! The rudder channel is on No.6 instead of the usual 4 on the display for setting the controller. The up & down blue columns . 'er indoors says that the channel 4 thing has nothing to do with computer , but I reckon that being a 6 channel Tx ,I'm getting a response that is akin to flaps or landing gear.That is a sort of one extremity to another -up or down so to speak .What is going on ?

Myron YO13 Head of digital dumbhead dept .

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Hi Myron,

Iv`e got RC Planemaster and the expansion pack, works o.k.most of the time but i do get the odd glitch, so i just remove and re-install the program, you do need to re-educate the program to the controls though and make sure that if for instance you want mode2 to make sure that you set the functions correctly with the proper reversed switch layout, the instructions are quite easy to follow so if you get a problem re-check that you have it set as they say.

Have fun with it mate!

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Thanks John,David & Bill

Well ,switched on again today and the rudder function is still like a switch .The worst part is that it jitters from left to right whilst trying to fly anything as soon as the throttle is operated when as you know you're likely to input a bit of side into the operation. The one thing on the plus side ,is that I'm more or less capable of flying any aeroplane that is uncontrollable .

Whilst calibrating the rudder the blue line (channel 6 as per shown on the various you tube videos) is either fully blue/jittering in or around mid position/ ,or blank . This is the 2nd set I've bought (ailerons failed on the first) .What is it with me and digital stuff I wonder ???.I used to just go out and fly after a build and thoroughily enjoy it .Now I seem to be confronted with stuff I've had no part in creating giving me problems . I'm no longer Grumpy but Angry !!! And while we're at it,what do the channels 5&6 (ie 5ch/giro switch and 6gear /pit potentiometer do) (Rx notation that is I suppose ) ? There's no mention anywhere .Think I'll stick to the REAL thing---Easier .I'was only trying to improve my skills this winter face 14cryingface 24

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Posted by John Cole on 27/01/2013 17:24:45:

Sounds like you need to go through the stick-calibration and channel-assignment process again when you start up PlaneMaster. And make sure that after that you exit PlaneMaster correctly. I don't think it saves all its settings until you do that. JSC

Sounds like you have NOT done the channel-assignment step?

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Just a thought but if you are using your own TX, have you assigned a new blank model to the Planemaster which has no mixes or pre-configured wing, flap or tail functions set.

I've had similar problems with Phoenix in the past after forgetting to change the current model to the blank (reset) model 30 I use for Phoenix and trying to fly a Yak with a wing setup in the TX.

Skippy

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John

Well,I have to report some improvement by re installing the programme from scratch and turning the right hand side potentiometer (gear/pit) fully clockwise .Weird Eh! The rudder is still not proportional and just goes fully left or right .However,it no longer jitters around the straight ahead position.You can't actually re-assign channels as you suggested 'cos the rudder has to be on channel 6 on the set up on the screen.whereas 1,2 &3 are as per Rx as normal if you see what I mean .Anyway although by no means ideal ,it's better than it was . Thanks again for your tips y'all !

Myron YO13 Galloping ghost simulating dept .

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It looks to me that you can change the channel assignments by clicking on the Configure screen: click on the dot that's in the Rudder row and Column 4 to assign Rudder to channel 4. That's what the onscreen instructions seem to suggest. I'm not clear why the default is 6 for rudder, and changing this may not help.

If you are using the RealityCraft controller I suggest you contact them as the controller may be faulty, or you have not correctly understood the instructions.
If you are using another controller or Tx, what are you using?
If you are using Windows 7, do you need to download the patch?
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John

We're on Vista .I can't move the rudder from 6 to the conventional 4 using the dots and indeed the destructions tell you that the channels on their controller (I'm using by the way) have no relationship with our normal Rx settings .On one of the Utube videos I found ,it actually shows that the correct rudder channel is no 6 .Channels 1,2& 3 are the same as you'd expect ..I'll contact the makers monday I reckon .Wonder if anyone else has the same problem ?Everything else seems ok .

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John

I can't move the rudder from channel 6 on the set up control(blue bar) to any other using the dot thingy.On the picture it depicts the blue bit either covering the top or the bottom of the "slot" or in the middle ,which I have now got it to stay on (no jittering)whilst using throttle . The blue doesn't move gently up and down like the other parameters(proportional) .Like I mentioned earlier originally ,it's very much like a switch for operating something like flaps or U/C A threeposition switch in other words.Maybe it's meant to be like it is .Not much good for controlled knife edge flying though.Thanks for your continuing support John. Intriguing isn't it .? I hate things I can't fix like yourself I suspect .'tis only digital stuff that has continually given me headaches.

Edited By Myron Beaumont on 02/02/2013 12:55:35

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You don't make clear whether this is when you are the dot-setting stage or if you have then moved on to the Re-Calibrate stage and gone through the re-calibrate process: centre all sticks, click Next, and then move each stick in turn from min to max several times. At this stage all blue bars should (in turn) go from min to max as you move each stick (axis) from min to max. Then click Finish.

If this re-calibrate process doesn't work - works on 3 stick axes (Ail / Ele / Throt) but not on the other (Rud) - then it sounds like maybe that stick-axis is not working correctly.

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John

You won't believe this but I dug out my old controller that I mentioned had given up on the aileron function even after cleaning the pot ,jonks ago just to see what happened. Well ,the aileron function WORKED just by swapping the Txs BUT the rudder had the problem that the new Tx has . Can't stand anymore so have broken into a can of beer .I give up -----

for now crying 2

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