Sell my wot 4 foam-e for a Multiplex fun cub?

[Simon Chambers]

If you do bend the motor shaft, I have found this one to be a good fit:

NTM Prop Drive 3536A Series Replacement Shaft (UK Warehouse)

It's still made of cheese, but it fits and is cheap enough not to worry! You can just about get the circlip back on if you want to, however I lost mine and never bothered replacing it. Not all my motors come with them anyway, so can't be essential.

To get the shaft out, I put a bolt or similar into a drill press and then push it out through. Then I use the drill press to push the shaft back into place. It's not advisable to use a hammer, as putting impact shock through magnets doesn't do them much good. Nor does heat either.

Si.

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

I'm good for the shafts, i had a mate knock me a few out at work. On the original wot 4 motor i think you need the circlip as it holds the front bearing in, drops out without it.

Mark

[Simon Chambers]

Posted by I_AM_MARKEVANS on 12/02/2013 22:25:31:

I'm good for the shafts, i had a mate knock me a few out at work. On the original wot 4 motor i think you need the circlip as it holds the front bearing in, drops out without it.

Mark

I guess mine must be held in place with all the dirt!

If it does come out, I'll put a very small drop of cyano on the outside to hold it in place.

I have to admit, the last time I was flying it, the shaft was pretty comically bent. The flight times weren't great through the inefficiencies, but as I had replace the ESC with a 60A unit, that never got hot - nor did the motor. It did sound good though, very much like a IC model.

Prop wise, as you get better I found the 13x6 APC-E to be a much better performer and more efficient than the stock bendy black prop. However when l was learning, that black bendy prop took a huge amount of abuse with rubbish landings and never broke.

If I recall correctly, I started with around 60-65% rates which was more than enough for me when learning. I think I went up to 70-75% for my A-test as I was struggling to turn it quick enough to make a nice tight circuit. Now I have it on 140% plus the servo horn setup on the maximum throws....

Si.

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

I think i have the rates set at 100% and then 50%, 40% epxo on both modes, although the last 2 times i flown it was on normal 100% rates.

My original black prop broke on the nose dive into the snow when i snapped the shaft. I have the apc 11x6 on there now, same price there abouts if i recall. Plus nearly all wot 4 foam-e spares are slim and non anyway.

Excited and nervous all at the same time to give it another fly. no one likes to keep crashing no matter how easy they are fixed or replaced.

Mark

[Geoff S]

I don't have a Wot 4 Foam E but I do have both Riot (similar to the Wot 4) as well as a Mux Fun Cub. They are different aeroplanes.

The Cub is great in relatively light winds and will do the book. The flaps are something else to play with. However, it's really restricted to winds less than about 10 mph. It's a very sturdy model. I lost the battery in mine when doing an outside loop and it floated down to earth inverted and landed on a concrete runway completelu undamaged except for the cowl which had been dislodged by the battery's escape.

The Riot will also do the book once the CoG is moved back and the control throws increased. It's big advantage is that I'll fly it any wind and is my go to model in less than perfect conditions. A flying buddy has a Wot 4 Foam E and the models are quite similar in performance.

I'd have both.

Geoff

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

I'm sure come the summer i may be the owner of both models haha.

But i hear time and time again how everyone loves the wot 4 foam-e and is the 'go to' model that will do pretty much most things you could want. so not changing or getting a fun cub just yet. Mind you once im confident with the wot 4, like people have suggested, i would be totally outgrown for the fun cub may not even get one at all. It was just an idea to run back to a easier model after my few small crashes.

When i started back in the hobby a few months back i had my heart set on 3 models, Radian pro (own) wot 4 foam-e (own) and the acro wot foam-e. It's only the few crahes with the radian pro and wot 4 that made me want to maybe go back to a more simple model like the fun cub, i know the radian pro is pretty simple but so far i've never gelled properly with that plane and still struggle with it.

Mark

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

So, tried my wot 4 again this morning....SUCCESS! (well sort off)

Remember i'm still very much a beginner despite flights on the Radian & Radian pro gliders

So having the rudder fall off on your first flight back (2nd go on the wot 4 in total) is not the best, but i got her down ok into the very muddy field.

Thought, screw it! and tried again without the rudder...not the best idea ever. Bit of breeze swung the tail around very easy and it ended up hovering in the breeze (im doing 3d tricks already look!) stalled at quite low level, banged in full up and managed to save it somehow. Brought her round in a lovely circuit and made the most perfect landing ever!

Only when i got back did i realize i'd left it on full rates too!

A calm summers day with properly hinged control surfaces should be walk in the park compared with todays antics.

Glad i stuck with the wot 4 foam-e, on the first flight before the rudder fell off i manged some nice slow circuits, i think once im a better flyer it will be able to do some of those slow and crazy tricks like the fun cub.

Just gonna fit my bigger wheels now to see if it helps stop it tipping over on landing

Mark

[Simon Chambers]

Glad to hear your getting on well with it now. Sounds like your making good progress.

When you next feel you take a step backwards, remember this moment as a reminder that you are progressing.

Foam hinged control surfaces are always a weak point on any foamy. Numerous tricks to rehinge them - whether its tape (like I did as a quick fix), cyano/mylar/regular hinges or even uhu-por hinge. I'm sure the guys on here can give plenty of links and advice on how to do it.

Just to double check, you have got the undercarriage on the right way round? It should be raked forwards towards the nose. It'll fit either way round and at first when you put it together, it feels it should rake backwards - but if you do, it falls over on landing.

To be honest, I used to tip it over all the time. Nowadays I, after learning how to, just bring it in for a 3-pointer landing.

Si.

[Masher]

My story with the WOT 4 foamy is so similar to Simon's that it's not worth repeating. Last time out I completely wrecked the front end and the wings (again) and considered scrapping it - surely these things can't go forever? Any way this one was so bad it took at least 2 hours to fix with Gorilla, cyno and cocktail sticks - I feel like a surgeon sometimes as I come across previous repairs inside. Mine looks very rough now but still, surprisingly, seems to have some structural integrity.

Anyway, first time out post repairs this morning fully expecting some "unpredicatble" behaviour but no problems. Flew great even in the wind, 4 good flights and home in one piece.

I've used GS motor shafts (about 60p I think) I just grind them down to length and fit in about 5 minutes.

Even if this plane wears out or gets too ugly, I can't imagine not having one - so I'll just get a new one

[I_AM_MARKEVANS]

Yeah, my undercarriage rakes forward. My field isnt really that long but on landing it always flips straight over, does the same on my mates.

Just gotta find something to fix the rudder with, might need some thin wood over each side of the foam where the screw by the tail wheel goes through, cause mine has pulled out of that now and also snapped the foam a little on the rudder part that slots into that pastic seat.

Mark