jimmy bond Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 First off i do not know if i should post questions here OR in the "Help and Tips" section? And being a new builder There will be more : I have taken some photos to assist my discription of my snags. I can only work out how to stack the photos so i will stack them in order of my questions. 1. The riblets are almost to front of the LE .When i shape the LE does the radius flow straight from theriblets/ribs. 2. The Ribs at the TE fall short at the rear of the TE ,unlike the LE .What happens with rounding of the TE and with the ribs ending short how does the covering stage work. The gap is spot on like the plan. 3. The gusset at the wing tip is thicker then the TE.should i trim this down to the TE thickness up to the last rib egde now then glue the rib in ,then shape.will gluing the rib in now make shaping harder. Sorry for the basic questions but this is my first build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greybeard Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 You should have a section of the wing on the plan to refer to for the leading edge shape. On my ¼ scale DB SE5 the L.E. is rounded on the underside only, I think the Pub is the same. The trailing edge should be left square but you can reduce its thickness by sanding it to fit the rib profile, in other words so that the top edge of the rib follows down to the thinned trailing edge. The gusset should be shaped to follow the rib shape so that it blends in with the trailing edge. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I think Greybeard has covered them comprehensively. The only thing I could add is that I would glue the gusset in place before sanding to profile. Don't apologise for the questions - if they're asked as clearly as these then keep them coming! Edited By Martin Harris on 18/02/2013 15:13:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 18, 2013 Author Share Posted February 18, 2013 Thanks Guys, do i continue to post here for help being scale`ish OR on the "help and tips" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 18, 2013 Share Posted February 18, 2013 I'll move it over to the 'Build Blog' section, Jimmy, as this kit and build will be of interest to many people. The only thing is, you'll have to keep posting your progress as we'll be wanting to see the results of your work - and everyone's advice! Some neat work there - don't worry about asking questions - we all do - and the good folk here will be very pleased to help Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Being my first build i am not sure on many things.At the moment i have only set the lower wing down with little glueing done. There are areas on the plan where parts do not fit as drawn,i have read that this is sometimes normal ,a little leeway is ok.in my case i cut 2 new wing tip parts because they were too short,that was ok.The thing i am not sure on is the TE. Following the plan the supplied TE fell short of the rear line and came flush with the rib ends.The plan shows a small gap from rib to rear of TE. So again i cut new strips to fit the plan. Should i have ignored the plan and used the supplied TE which would of came flush with ribs,but making the wing narrower? Cant see how the covering will work now? The TE is spot on position wise,so are the ribs too short and shoud of been flush? Would like to know the correct way for future builds. Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 20/02/2013 11:58:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 I've moved the above post over to continue in your build blog, Jimmy - no need to start a new thread with each question The T/E looks fine to me - a very light sanding to continue the rib contour to the edge but don't make it too thin Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Pete,sorry about that,not up on forum "placement" yet. Would the ideal of been...rib to very rear of TE and leave square? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Depends on personal preference, I suppose, but that strip of a few mm provides some protection against damage, in my opinion. With a slightly larger model, you would often have a matching strip running along the top of those rib ends and glued to the lower sheet, often with cap strips running lengthwise on the ribs. Alternative methods are to use a shaped trailing edge, notched to take the end of the rib, with it all sanded nicely once it's built. Looking very good at the moment - you're a tidier worker than me! If you go to the bottom of this page, just below the 'Add posting' button, you'll see a 'Bookmark this thread' link. Click that and you'll get an email every time someone makes a post on the thread Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 20, 2013 Author Share Posted February 20, 2013 Thanks for the "bookmark" tip Pete. Just looked up "Cap strip" this building lark can get very involved : ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 All part of the service I'll say it's involved - I don't think I'll ever stop learning! It's complicated by the fact that quite often there's more than one way to do something..... Quite often, models have sheeting to the front of the wing, from the mainspar forwards, sometimes top only, sometimes top and bottom. This forms a very strong box section, useful on larger models. To avoid the exposed ribs showing under the covering behind the sheeted mainspar, the capstrips provide a nice tidy surface for the covering. In this case, the model doesn't need such strength to the box section and DB made it look more scale by providing the riblets, which show up nicely when covered. You'd lose that if it was sheeted - and will have done a lot of extra work for no reward! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Great start Jimmy, I'll be following this build Dale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.