jimmy bond Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 New to building and not sure how the aileron leading edge joins at the wing tip,new to reading plans.Does it half join over the tip or run right across having cut the tip piece? I have shown the wood parts to give a idea.all the lines are soild not dotted so it is confusing me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 How does piece 240 fit in relation to the wing ribs? Does it fit into a slot on the top of the ribs?This may help you see how 212 fits in relation so that it meets up with the last rib at the correct height to join onto the trailing edge.... if you can understand what I mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 OK Jimmy, I assume you're intending to use the aileron option? If so, glue the rear spar (immediately in front of 240 on the plan) to 212. You then cut the ribs to butt against the rear spar, butting the inboard end of that spar against a full rib. A triangular scrap will reinforce the corner. Once that's done, glue the aileron leading edge (240) to 212 and set close to the full rib at the inboard end. Build the aileron using the remainder of the cut ribs and the trailing edge. When all is dry, you cut 212 between 240 and the rear spar. That OK, so far? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Pete,sorry some parts are clear but i still do not know how part 240 aileron le mates at part 212 wing tip? I presumed the spars ened at the last ribs because they are higher.again i presumed triangular blocks would run from spar ends to wing tips. picture above. Below is the rear of ribs cut to length to but with aileron le.outer rib was anglered at te slot (although i had placed the wrong side piece in the photo) to fit at tip. I have layed the aileron le on top of tip.Do i cut wing tip part there so the le runs straight across? Then chamfer from last rib to wing tip to form that trangular part i have to do for the spar tip section? Sorry about having to ask again.I think i can do a neatish job but i just do not know the method/secquench of the work. Also while the photo is here,the wing tip pieces are thicker than the TE,so it looks like it needs to be thinned to match the TE and get thicker towards front.Where should the full thickness start? at rear spar? midway or at front spar.On my plans a view of the wing tip side on is not shown. Rudder and ele are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Payne Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 My take on attaching part 240 is to cut a notch in the bottom of it so that it sits down on the end piece and is level with the rear spar. The rest looks OK but there will have to be some sanding done to get the correct shape at the wing tip. Cheers, John. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Coleman Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Your rear spar should extend out to the Wing tip. It is then trimmed back and sanded to a smooth curve down to the level of the tip. Hard to explain... Need to take some photos to help you out. Will tryt to do so. This looks like the DB sport and scale small scale Pup. Am I right? Hugh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 OK, I think the bottom rear spar should have extended into 212 but it's not a problem - glue a triangular piece of scrap, the same width as the spar extending from the top spar to about the 2nd '2' of the printed 212. There's not a huge amount of 'pressure' on the wingtip, so it will be OK. Cut the outside end of 240 so that it butts against the side of 212 and carries on top 3/4 of the way across, ie, extend it as far as the triangular piece I mentioned above. Match the angle of the two ends. Fit the end aileron rib as you've cut it. Put a similar triangular piece at the end of the front spar, as well. Finish the aileron construction, then before cutting it away, you can cut the trailing edge to length and sand away until you have a pleasing profile. It's easier to do than explain but as you sand it, the overall shape will become clearer. Sand the outside of the nearest end of 212 ( near the white pin) down to the trailing edge thickness. The rib will give you an idea. Once you've sanded it all, you can cut away the aileron. Remember that much of this will be under the final covering and won't be visible. As long as both wingtips are the same shape, It'll look great. It can be difficult to interpret a plan - but with experience, you can normally come up with a working solution. There are no critical load-bearing parts here so don't be too concerned about getting it spot on! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hi Jimmy, I've found a couple of pics on here via the search facility....not sure if they will help but.... Dale. Edited By Dale Gibson on 26/02/2013 10:27:38 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Here's another one.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 That should be a great help, Dale - a picture's worth a thousand words! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gilder Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Maybe a diagram like this would help explain!! Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 26, 2013 Author Share Posted February 26, 2013 Thanks for all the help guys,the pictures have really helped. Hugh you are correct,it is a DB pup E, And Dale is there a build thread on yours,that would really help me out. One last question,sorry! In my pictures i have cut the spars at the last ribs.I think the front was mentioned as being ok BUT it was mentioned the rear should of carried on to the tip. How would that work because the spar is higher than the tip piece 212,the only way it would contact would be to bend it and it is stiff ,spruce i think. David dia great Pete B, thanks for detailed reply. I am new to using forums and i did start a kinda build blog.i would like to inc all this in the build thread because i truely am a complete novice but i do not know if many guys would be klooking at that so any questions on the build i post here thinking more will see it and reply,perhaps none on the build blog if you get my jist.what should i do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 If you mean the upper rear spar, you'll see in the pics that it's just an extension piece, cut and butt-jointed to the end of the spa and angled down to 212. I suggested a triangular piece, not having seen the pics, but either way will be fine You won't bend spruce.... You might just as well continue here with your build log, Jimmy. There's plenty of info here now and your pics are fine. I'll see if I can move it to the Scale and semi-scale section and re-title it so it can be easily found. Pete ps As you see, I've now moved the thread to 'Scale and Semi-scale kits' and given it a new title - if you continue here we'll all be watching...... I've deleted your earlier thread as there was nothing in it Carry on building.... Edited By Pete B - Moderator on 26/02/2013 12:32:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Gibson Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Hi Jimmy, It's not my build I'm afraid but I came upon the pics via the search facility on this forum. I am going to try and post a link to it but this will be my first attempt at that so here goes....Link Cheers Dale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 That works OK, Dale. When I'm building, Jimmy, I find it's always worth scouring the net for previous builds and then select the best hints and tips from anything I find. Searching the Pup E, I've come across this build thread over on RCG which has some more pics which may be of help. It looks like there are some changes since 2007 - the t/e is no longer of spruce, looking at your pics, but otherwise it may point you in the right direction. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 I had a go at the first aileron last night and the spar tip pieces.I think the front spar piece went ok.The rear spar is angled slightly so i included that in the end piece also.Do not know if that was correct because when i then did the aileron LE i think the angle will be too much to carry and blend in??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 so had to sheet first rib bay at bottom and top.Did the bottom piece,1/16 scrap sheet,then came to doing the top with the curve.Think i should of done that first from underneath,cant see what i am doing from above if you get my jist.Decided to use a block.Sanded to almost final size,little more to go.did not take to long to do so no biggy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Could not inc a second picture.i never seem to be able to get the second or third picture inserted easily.sometimes it works others it wont. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmy bond Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 It would be great if anyone can point out the errors.i am calling this a pratice build now.There are many areas i am really lacking in knowledge base.I might learn enough on this for my next build.But saying that i have been looking at build blogs/posts on various kits and see a build blog on a "BALSA USA" KIT. Slightly bigger than the Pup BUT the build manual i see in the posts is very detailed with pictures very thick and covers all stages.That might be the way for me to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 That's looking fine.When I'm building a scale model, I'll trawl the net for 'walk-round' photos - these show the full-size and can help in visualising what the plan-drawer intended the end result to look like. Here's a typical example - this shows that what you're doing is right for the Camel - carry on and match the aileron l/e spar and it'll be fine Don't forget that when it comes to hinging the ailerons, you'll need to chamfer the l/e to allow full movement. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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