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Dick Edmunds Halton Special


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Hi everyone i am new here, I recently got given a Dick Edmunds Halton Special by my brother in law, its in perfect condition never flown by the looks of it. I cant find any info on it or the company itself. Just wanted to know a bit more about it and wether its something that is considered a collectors item. Many thanks in advance.

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Hi Shaun, take a look at this: **LINK**

One Tony OShea flew one in the world championships in the late 1970s, having added flaps to it. Check out this link: **LINK**

It was an expensive model in its time, being supplied ARTF when practically everything else was kit-built, so I wouldn't be surprised if there were some collectors value. It was made by EMP (Edmonds Model Products). The designer, Dick Edmonds, also designed the Keil Kraft Scorpion with an ABS fuselage and foam wings, which was my first RC power model (not the same as the older wooden KK Scorpion).

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Hmm, can't remember how he did - would have to check my RCM&Es in the loft. I don't think you could really call it a serious competition model (he may have needed a thermaller at short notice if he'd pranged having entered the W/champs!). I remember a couple of guys in the club had them though, and they were pretty good by 1970s standards.

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Here's a couple of pics of a good-looking young chap with his EMP Corona, a 100" class from the same stable, taken sometime between 1978 and 1983:

EMP Corona

Corona

Judging by the impending challenge to the follicles evident in the second pic, it seems to have lasted rather well....teeth 2

Whilst not the most competitive or contest-orientated in the 100" class, it was a pleasure to fly and acquitted itself well - indeed, it was good enough to beat Chris Foss in a thermal comp at the old Portsmouth Airport, so there!smile pwink 2

IIRC, the Halton Special may have had a larger wingspan on the same fuselage but I'm not sure - what's the span on yours, Shaun?

Unfortunately, I too have found very little on the Web about Edmonds Model Products, apart from that link to the team pic, but the models were quite popular at the time.

If you've a hankering to fly a model, Shaun, please start on something a little less precious and keep the Halton to enjoy when you're ready - there aren't enough about to risk it as a trainer.

If it's not your thing, then I reckon an Ebay listing might attract a fair bit of attention.....thumbs up

Pete

ps D'you know, looking in the mirror, I haven't really changed that much.......wink 2

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I wouldn't want to put a figure on the forum - I'll PM you, but please don't take just my word for it - I'm sure others will have an idea of its value too.

It may be worth you watching the R/C Aeroplanes section of Ebay for a while to get an idea of current vintage and collectable kits values, before you list it.

Pete

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This thread takes me back...to the last flight before my quarter century modelling break when my Halton Special committed Hara Kiri within sight of its spiritual home of Halton Ridge - the rudder servo locked full over and it spiralled in at terminal velocity!

Actually, I still have the airbrakes that I fitted to the wings somewhere in the loft...

Edited By Martin Harris on 08/05/2013 23:57:04

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Although mine has servos etc in it my brother in law says he never flew it, i found the servos in the box and put them in the cockpit for photo purposes lol, still unsure wether or not i will keep it or maybe find someone willing to buy it. Loving the responses though keep it up.

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Shaun - although I appreciate your servos are only in temporarily, the eyelets should go the other way up...a very common mistake even amongst experienced modellers but as you're just starting out something that you may not be aware of. The idea is to spread the load on the bearer - the thin brass will just cut in to the bearer that way up.

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Eventually found it, Shaun, but it's not in a category that's likely to attract many bids from aeromodellers, IMHO. You'll be relying on someone searching on the word 'Halton' and there won't be many of those.

You really should move or add it to Toys & Games;Radio-Controlled;Aeroplanes:Aeroplanes

That way it will be seen by many, many more potential purchasers than at present....thumbs up

Good luck with it!

Pete

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  • 9 years later...

Hello guys, I am new on this topic. I bought myself a nice present on Marktplaats being an Edmund Halton Special glider. I am surprised how easy to fly this model. However I am having problems with the start. Reaching a height of 20m the glider disconnect from the line. 

The theory about this issue seems to be a rearwords position of the release hook. I have not yet changed the original releasehook (the triangle plywood hook).

 

I have the following questions:

- What is the best location of the releasehook? 

- What is the location of the C.G.?

- Is the constuction drawing still available?

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The basic figure for the tow hook is about thirty degrees angled forward from the centre of gravity position (balance point). Balance the model at about 30% of the chord width measured from the leading edge close to the fuselage. These figures will give you a safe starting point but will need adjusting for best performance and your personal taste. Make the tow hook mounting adjustable for a screw in type tow hook so that you get the best climb on the bungee or towline but without a tendency to ping off early.

A 20M climb is very poor indeed. If the tow hook and balance are roughly correct, is your tow method the problem? A cheap and nasty elastic cotton covered bungee will cause you problems, as they are more like catapults in the way they release their energy. Do you have enough nylon line attached to the rubber section? 80 to 100M I used to find worked well.  Trying to launch in calm or near calm conditions will not give great results. A surgical rubber bungee is far superior. How far to stretch it you'll have to judge.

Launching technique can make or break! your flight. Generally speaking, launch without any elevator input but then gradually feed in 'up' as the model settles into a climb, keeping the line tight and using any wind to advantage. Either allow the model to release itself at the top when the line has slackened a bit, or learn the 'zoom' technique to gain a bit of extra height.

Good luck, hope this helps.

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  • 2 months later...
On 16/02/2023 at 11:45, Cuban8 said:

The basic figure for the tow hook is about thirty degrees angled forward from the centre of gravity position (balance point). Balance the model at about 30% of the chord width measured from the leading edge close to the fuselage. These figures will give you a safe starting point but will need adjusting for best performance and your personal taste. Make the tow hook mounting adjustable for a screw in type tow hook so that you get the best climb on the bungee or towline but without a tendency to ping off early.

A 20M climb is very poor indeed. If the tow hook and balance are roughly correct, is your tow method the problem? A cheap and nasty elastic cotton covered bungee will cause you problems, as they are more like catapults in the way they release their energy. Do you have enough nylon line attached to the rubber section? 80 to 100M I used to find worked well.  Trying to launch in calm or near calm conditions will not give great results. A surgical rubber bungee is far superior. How far to stretch it you'll have to judge.

Launching technique can make or break! your flight. Generally speaking, launch without any elevator input but then gradually feed in 'up' as the model settles into a climb, keeping the line tight and using any wind to advantage. Either allow the model to release itself at the top when the line has slackened a bit, or learn the 'zoom' technique to gain a bit of extra height.

Good luck, hope this helps.

On 16/02/2023 at 11:45, Cuban8 said:

The basic figure for the tow hook is about thirty degrees angled forward from the centre of gravity position (balance point). Balance the model at about 30% of the chord width measured from the leading edge close to the fuselage. These figures will give you a safe starting point but will need adjusting for best performance and your personal taste. Make the tow hook mounting adjustable for a screw in type tow hook so that you get the best climb on the bungee or towline but without a tendency to ping off early.

A 20M climb is very poor indeed. If the tow hook and balance are roughly correct, is your tow method the problem? A cheap and nasty elastic cotton covered bungee will cause you problems, as they are more like catapults in the way they release their energy. Do you have enough nylon line attached to the rubber section? 80 to 100M I used to find worked well.  Trying to launch in calm or near calm conditions will not give great results. A surgical rubber bungee is far superior. How far to stretch it you'll have to judge.

Launching technique can make or break! your flight. Generally speaking, launch without any elevator input but then gradually feed in 'up' as the model settles into a climb, keeping the line tight and using any wind to advantage. Either allow the model to release itself at the top when the line has slackened a bit, or learn the 'zoom' technique to gain a bit of extra height.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Both tow hook and CG changed accordingly. With 20m bungee and 100m nylon cord the glider reached 63m having 16km windspeed. Can I have better results? The CG looks correct because gliding is perfect. Do I need to have the hook more to the front or aft to reach more height?

20230429_201359.jpg

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