Braddock, VC Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Watching with interest. Just a heads up re the servos, if they are sd 200 size and if they have plastic gears then I'd give them a miss and fit similar sized ones with metal gears. The sd 200 gears are flimsy and a brush in long grass with mine in my wot4 stripped the gears. I actually had some protech ones with metal gears, swapped them and they were bullet proof btw, 2.6 Kg/cm. Remember the small servos can take quite a lot of amps and hence you'll probably need a bit more than 1000mAh to keep the battery voltage up whilst flying. 2p supplied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 http://www.modelflying.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=14126 http://www.sebart.it/download/Assembly-Angel-30E.pdf If you can open these links there are two options.. Regards, Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 ok got a bit more done , laminated ply fuselage doublers , added sternposts , top and bottom longerons , and added formers , eddie says in the instructions to wet the fuselage sides with warm water to aid in geting the curvature correct , how effective is this method ? thanks charles will have a look at the links now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 just had a look at the links links charles , the second one seems pretty good , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 It's certainly an easier method, John, but on a scale model it doesn't seem right to have half a servo exposed, even on the underside of the wing. Here's another example of the method I suggested on the previous page, this time from my CG Cub. As you can see, all that is exposed is the servo arm: A bit more work, perhaps, but a more pleasing result, I think Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 19, 2013 Author Share Posted June 19, 2013 yes pete i agree , i think thats the method i'm going to use , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 19, 2013 Share Posted June 19, 2013 Pete, Nice pics, yes that is my preferred method. John, Damping balsa to bend it really helps, also holding the damp side over the vapour from the kettle helps. But it can hurt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 first time wings meet fusalage at least its beginning to look like an aircraft now , will crack on with the fusalage later today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Holland 2 Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 Does the design really specify fully sheeted wings? No full size Jodel/Robin (metal ones excepted) has other than fabric covering from the main spar back. G-BDDF, on which the late, great DB based the model most definitely had ply under the fabric on fuselage, wing and tail plane leading edges. It seems a strange choice to fully sheet the flying surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 just following eddies instructions in the manual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 we're getting there , plywood decking now attached , less said about this bit the better , had me absolutely demented fitted the cowl on just so she has a nose for her photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 well i did and i didn't percy , i knew that if i steamed it i could form a rough shape , but i didnt know about fastening it to a suitable former , and leaving it till it dries , but i do now , and thats the beauty of forums like these , full of good tips , from guys like your good self i also had to reshape the fusalage formers a bit because the ply wouldnt reach from side to side , same with the front ply decking . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 21, 2013 Author Share Posted June 21, 2013 just managed it percy , with lots of cursing , grunting and moaning , (wow sounds like my weekends from yester year ) it'll still need dressing off and a bit filling here and there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 Wow John, you are getting a move on. Its looking good too. Plenty of space inside this one. I have two weeks off work now, so no excuses to get my rescue job on the go again, or you will be flying before me. The decking on my model was done by using lots of strips of balsa shaped and glued together, stuck on one by one.. The end result looks fine too. I have never tried steaming ply, sounds a bit tricky. But closer to scale. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 hmmm yeah it was tricky charles , but probably only because its one of those things i've never done before , although i think even if i had , it would have sill been a bit fiddly . I'm basically finished building now , i done the fin and stabiliser last night , so apart from sheeting the underside of the wing once i've got the two servos in , its just down to sanding , shaping the leading edge , rest of the servo installation , and covering . It'll be flying next weekend no it wont cos i'll not be here next weekend just a quick question , when sanding and shaping the leading edge , how can i ensure the profile is the same over the full length of the wing . I cant remember how i used to do it , in fact if i remember rightly the leading edge was already shaped on my models from the past . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Smith Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 Hi there John You certainly build a lot quicker than me I had many the same problems with the ply covering for the cowel but you seem to have gone it done. Job looks great regards michael smith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted June 22, 2013 Author Share Posted June 22, 2013 Thanks michael just on my way to do a bit more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 does anyone have any reccomendations on what receiver pack i should get for the jodel , also what size fuel tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Smith Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Hi there John I have ordered and got 8oz one from Slec it's cheaper than from DB Sport. It fits a treat. Regards Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john melia 1 Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 just looked on slec.com the 8oz (240cc) Round Tank Ref: SL051C-R 2.1/4" x 5.1/2" is £4.-02 whereas the same tank at D.B Sport is only £2.60 assuming this is the same tank you have ordered !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Smitheman Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Hi John, I have been on holiday so not looking at the computer! Leading edge: I use a razor plane (David) and then various grades of sandpaper taped to a piece of wood. A good light helps. Make it as blunt/ round as possible, no sharp corners. Tank: I used a Sullivan slant tank mounted sideways. The model when I got it had a SLEC 2 tone tank which had not leaked for 25 years so they are probably OK! Pressure test it and your pipes (block one blow into the other) Battery: Sanyo Eneloop are brilliant. I suggest a 6V (5cell) pack if all of your radio components are compatible (some old servo's I have are not) Several of my models do have the 4.8v 4 cell packs with no problems, but I understand that 2.4 Ghz sets are more sensitive to low voltage, so the extra cell to my mind is extra safety. I have flown my one succesfully. It is really heavy, (about 10lb or more) but flies just fine. Looks realistic when flown slowly! I started with the cg far forward, (guesswork) and need to move it back a bit more. Apparently it was from the Duncan Hutson plans. It is a little bigger than yours, but flies fine on an old OS 60 two stroke, it cruises at less than half power. Loops, rolls, inverted, stall turn and spins all OK. Steers with the rudder or the ailerons. Charles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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