Ken Tarran Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 Hi All,Has anyone any advice on how to remove dried cyano glue from the covering on a model? I've been a bit generous putting cyano on a model I'm building and some has gone onto the covering and has unfortunately dried on it.I use methylated spirits to clean up epoxy spills but it doesn't seem to have the same effect on cyano. Any help would be appreciated.Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 9, 2008 Share Posted March 9, 2008 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 Ken , I'm the same surgical spirit or white spirit works great on epoxy but cyano is a different matter. Zap Pacer glues do something called Z-7 debonder which is for separating glued fingers and removing cyano from models. It's pretty widely available and distributed by Macgregors in the UK. Might be worth a try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Tarran Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 David,Many thanks for that - next time I'm at the local hobby shop I'll buy some of the product you suggest and give it a go. My trouble is I'm a bit too liberal with the glue in the first place and unfortunately on this occasion it ran and I didn't spot it until it had dried.I'll report back after I've tried it. I can't be the only one who's had the same problem, can I !!Regards,Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ashby - Moderator Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 No I have too Ken. I don't know what it is about cyano, but it's so easy to get everywhere and once it's on a nice solarfilm finish then it can be very difficult to remove Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stevens Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Weston Models have a product called Cynowipe - I have also seen this in local model shop which softens and removes cyno - instant wipe on fresh but leave it longer on old cyno and may need a couple of goes. I imagine other cyno producers also have a similar product. Half way down page on the left - £4.95Weston ModelsMike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Tarran Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 Hi Mike,Thanks a lot for the info. Having looked at the write-ups on the respective websites for both Zap Pacer Z-7 Debonder and Weston's Cyanowipe, both claim to be able to remove cured cyano, albeit possibly after a couple of applcations to soften it up first, these products certainly have the credentials to resolve my problem. Thanks again for the help Mike and David. Being a member of the RCM&E forum certainly, more often than not, provides an answer (or two) to my RC modelling problems that occur from time to time. Best regards,Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted March 22, 2008 Share Posted March 22, 2008 Ken,Sorry I'm a bit late with the reply. Acetone can still be brought from most chemists in small quantities and it's cheap. A 20 ml bottle is about a quid. If your chemist is like mine he'll order a 500ml bottle for you at £4.99. The stuff dissolves cured cyano. I even use it for the pipet ends that are used for the cyano bottle tips, and the tops that come with the cyano bottle. Instead of cutting the ends off when they clog up. Drop them in Acetone for 15 mins and they come out like new. It works a treat on white blume. and if you manage to get some thing glued on not quite right, ( head rest on a astro hog) wick some acetone in and it comes off clean with no damage. And if your like me and like to build with traditional materials it's good for thining balsa cement.Cheers,Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken Tarran Posted March 24, 2008 Author Share Posted March 24, 2008 Hi Chris,Thanks very much for the info. Would I be correct in saying that nail varnish remover is in fact acetone? If it is, it may still be cheaper to buy it direct from the chemist as you suggest.Kind regards,Ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Bandit Posted March 25, 2008 Share Posted March 25, 2008 Ken,I not sure nail varnish remover is the same. But Acetone is still on the house hold solvents list so any chemist should sell it. The chemist in the village where I live sells it in small bottles off the shelf. May be worth trying a couple of those first. thats only a couple of quid. You could ask at the same time if they will get larger quantities for you. I metioned the head rest on the Astro Hog because a mate of mine did just that. It was covered in Solar Tex and he'd cyano'd the head rest on after covering. We just wicked some Acetone in with a small brush and off it came, clean as a whistle. He's sold on it now.I've just built a 1937 Wigdor Wasp for the May fly at Old Warden. And determined to use traditional build methods, I thinned out some balsa cement 50/50 with Acetone in a small needle point bottle for double gluing, and it makes incredably strong joints.Cheers,Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Carpenter Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Hi, Can I re-open this thread to ask some advice? I was busy working on a new model yesterday (an E-Flite bipe) and made a small error involving some cyano... The servo horns are fixed into the ailerons using two plastic lugs secured in pre-drilled holes with cyano. Whilst gluing the first horn, I let the cyano cure for a fraction too long before sloting the horn in place; unfortunately the lugs went in half-way and the glue set. My dilema is do I snip of the exposed part of the servo horn and re-drill the holes, or use cyan debonder to try and remove the lugs? I'm not sure whether debonding and re-applying cyano will result in a join? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Carpenter Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Sorry, posted reply twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Carpenter Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Thanks Phil. The lugs are a few mm into the balsa, will the debonder get into the holes and penetrate the balsa easily enough? Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COLIN MILNE Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 a note on acetone. Ken mentioned nail varnish remover as a sorce of acetone. Indeed nail varnish remover is prodominentley acetone but has lanolin (shep fat ) added as a method od not drying out the natural grease on your hands. "(erm' or should I say the wifes hands!)". Acetone is a fine degreasing agent and has many uses in the work shop and indeed around the house. Don't buy it from your local chemist ' £1 for 20ml though. Look in the yellow pages for suppliers of fibre glass products. You can buy a gallon for arround £7. the GRP people use it as a general cleaning / de-greasing agent and so consider it a cheap consumable hence the cheap price from thier suppliers. Acetone is ideal to get rid of fuel from fuel soaked balsa before effecting a repair, wiping the castor gunk from coverings befor patching or repairing ( but not on painted coverings so try a inconspicuous area befor you commit it to your precious covering), cleaning dust from any component before bonding ., cleaning epoxy spills... etc.. etc.. etc. Cheers Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 The simple answer is acetone. It removes dried CA easily but doesn not harm covering. Buy small bottles from any chemist for 95p. I keep a 500 mil bottle but you can't buy large bottles now. Most fibreglass manufacturing places will keep large amounts and will often sell you a bottle full. I believe that nail varnish remover is really just acetone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamish Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Whilst acetone may not harm covering it will remove any paintwork. Took the colour scheme out of my Boomerang when I was rebuilding, so be careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Carpenter Posted February 17, 2009 Share Posted February 17, 2009 Thansk for the tips. I tried using Zap Z-7 debonder, but the lugs were too far in for it to penetrate, so I ended up sniping the servo horn off and drilling them out. Didn't prove too difficult, started with a very small dril bit and worked up from there. Of course, I'm now in need of a replacement for the servo horn Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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