Jump to content

Beafing up my Auto - G


Tom Wright  2
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I bought an Auto -G some time ago simply out of curiosity ,and have found it to be a very credible affordable entry level model for rc pilots that prefer instant gratification rather than a build . The elevator as opposed to a dual axis head makes things much simpler , and reduces the chance of boom strikes , along with no mixing required and easy trimming but ! I found the flex plate and blades became a problem if the model was flown often or subjected to the inevitable bad arrivals and enthusiastic aerobatics.

A practical solution to buying replacement parts was needed so I decided to investigate the possibilities of replacing the the two bolt blade attachment , blade holder ,flex plate ,and blades. This mod was devised and fitted very quickly using ready made parts from AJ Blades and Coolwind Models the model flies impeccably and no longer suffers the weaknesses found with the stock model . If any of you are interested I can post details of how the conversion was done, if not at least my Auto - G is now very cheap to maintain ,and free from the frustration of waiting for parts to be restocked.smile.

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


OK Guys thanks for looking in , this is the method I used based on the balsa /spruce blade set from AJ Bades and the plate conversion kit from Coolwind Models .

The first job is to remove the stock flex plate assembly to leave the bearing holder and control arm with a 35 mm cap head bolt retained with a 3mm loc nut tightened to allow the bolt to rotate freely . I don't think you will need further prompting to get to this stage as the process is very simple. All the additional nuts ,bolts, washers , flex plate parts , shims and blade root parts are included in the conversion pack from Coolwind Models.

The photo shows how things should look after stage one. The four self tapping screws that hold the bearing holder to the mast can now be replaced.

Auto - G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stage two preparing the blades.

Prepare the blade roots with the components supplied in the Coowind kit as shown on page 17 in this PDF .

The photo shows the blades as received from AJ Blades. I have marked the root trim back points as this ensures that all the blades will be prepared to rotate anticlockwise .

Auto - G

I should mention that this conversion was carried out on the G1 , I have not looked into the suitability for the G2 .

Edited By Tom Wright 2 on 21/09/2013 19:55:10

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blade length will require trimming off to ensure clearance to the fin , make sure this is done accurately using a set square and double check that exactly the same amount is removed from each blade . I cheated by trimming a little of the fin leading edge ,this allowed the blade length to cut to 403 mm. If you don't want to attack the your pristine fin then the blades should be cut to around 393 mm but do a trial fit before cutting to length.

Just going back to the first photo please note that the 3 mm nut is intentionally fitted upside down to give a base for the load spread washer ( supplied in the Coolwind kit ) that will fitted during the final assembly .

More tomorrow..

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK on with the next stage, use the blade nuts bolts and load spread washers to to attach the blades to the plate. Now it's important to establish how much blade to plate clamping pressure is required , if to slack the blades will flop about, or if to tight they will take time in flight to find there natural position ,or if way over tight they may never find position so this will result in shake and poor lift . Try to get the bolt torque reasonably equal on all three to prevent any one of the the blades remaining out of position in flight.

Place a load spread washer over the rotor bolt then fit the flex plate with the large gf washer supplied underneath, add another load spread washer on top of the flex plate and secure with the 3 mm loc nut supplied.

Auto - G

Auto - G


Link to comment
Share on other sites

This conversion was done quite some time ago and before the plate kit was available from Coolwind Models, so do expect the kit components to be nice and shiny and very accurate unlike my make do and well used parts.

Plate assembly shown from the underside.

auto - g 001.jpg

Top view.

auto - g 002.jpg

Ready to go.

auto - g 003.jpg

My conversion resulted in more lift and very smooth rotor performance. I hope others get the same results. Despite a fair bit of knocking about by students ,my model has not needed any head or blade repairs or replacements. A photo of Crispins centre mounted single servo would be useful as I have taken the lazy option with one side mg servo operating the roll arm via one push rod .

Tom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cracking info as always Tom, got a couple of projects in mind for winter so I'll add the Auto-G mod bits to my ever -increasing shopping list

To say mine is currently a bit battlescarred is an understatement....this was from Saturday...it was a bit shorter after Sunday dont know ..hence the mods

8h0y0271.jpg

8h0y0177.jpg

8h0y0180.jpg

Shame you couldn't make it Sunday, another cracking event, you'd have loved it !!. I'll get some pics over on the thread over the next day or so. PS bumped into Malcolm from Coolwind,...think I'll be keeping him busy wink 2

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Tom

Will do, but may be some time due to bad planning I have 2 builds on the go.

Started a Magister then ran out of balsa so started a Polaris then ran out of depron. then I broke the Auto G, so you can imagine the state of my bench. Due to SWMBO being unwell, getting to LMS a bit of a problem at the moment.

Initialy intended to use the Auto G blades but re-built with balsa in the plastic leading edge. A bit of a job removing the old foam so ordered a set of blades from AJ 'just in case'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The couple of times Mine actually flew were not very sucessfull, took off OK but having reached about 10 feet would not climb any further.

I tested the motor with a wattmeter and tacho standard 3 blade prop 3 s 1300mah lipo ( also tried 2200mah, same results)

initially got 148W @12.7V 13000rpm

after about half a min running this settled to 130W @ 10.7V 10000rpm.

Any comments?

Edited By Mowerman on 22/10/2013 19:51:01

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...