sig koverall

[john melia 1]

how do you get the creases out of the nylon where it has been folded ? i've applied to a sheeted surface and no matter how much dope i put on , or how much i pull the nylon about , or how much i try to roll the creases out , they just reappear ................. its driving me nuts

[Plummet]

You have not mentioned heat. Koverall is heat shrinkable. (Before you dope it. )

Plummet

[john melia 1]

well thats how thick i am plummet , i thought it was only shrunk over the open structures , and just layed on and doped over the sheeted areas , i'll get there .......... still lots to learn

[Plummet]

Thick - No. A definition of a genius that I have heard is to see the obvious for the first time.

Stupid is NOT asking.

Plummet

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 04/11/2013 08:09:36

[john melia 1]

well after a week using sig koverall , and butrate dope , i can safely say this will be the first and last time ever i use it.

So time consuming , and basically so expensive as well , the koverall cost £15 , the dope cost £10 , the thinners cost nearly £6 for a small tin , then i need undercoat , then paint , then a fuel proof finish of some sort .

I thought solarfilm was bad for applying , but this stuff takes the biscuit ....... horrible so the next time i think i'll be using solartex .

[Braddock, VC]

Don't give up so easily, John. The hardest part of koverall is the first time you use it. It's like all experience you learn, quickly and in large amounts the first time then the learning process gives way to your experience and you modify your technique to suit the job in hand.

I think the big lesson you've learned is solarfilm isn't that bad but the underlying lesson you've yet to assimilate, viz that koverall becomes part of the structure and imparts strength over and above that which any film can provide.

I still agonise over film or nylon for a wot 4 fuselage and I'm just reaching that stage with the wot4 I'm building right now.

Here's my tip of the month; if you envisage crashing your toys regularly solarfilm them, if you can fly them til they are oil soaked and have to retire them koverall or nylon.

Another tip use any old dope and buy some castor oil from the chemist, 50 ml is enough, 5 or so drops in your dope tin will make the dope flexible and drink the rest but not before you maiden a model .

[john melia 1]

you're right braddock , but jeez what a caper , i've now used the full bottle of dope , and all the mrs's talc to try and fill the weave , there still seems to be hard air pockets in the nylon , i've tried re-doping them and pricking them , but i think i'm gonna have to do a hell of a lot of prep work before it sees its first coat of primer , i was even thinking of using high build primer ??

To me i think it would be way more cost effective using say solartex with a fuel proofer . By the time i eventually get this done the cost will be around £53 for a smallish 34" span delta wing

[john melia 1]

does anyone know if i could i use plasti-cote aerosol paint and primer over the doped sig koverall ? Is this fuel proof ? Its an enamel paint

[Bob Cotsford]

I know for a fact it's not glow-fuel proof! I used it on a Formosa - it's only a leccy, doesn't need proofing. Not until I parked it at the back while stating the OS 61SF in my Tornado. Just a little exhaust residue got on the Formosa and the paint softened straight away.

Old fashioned enamels are not fuel proof.

[Bob Cotsford]

Flair, Solarlac and Profilm paints should be ok, Flair Spectra and Profilm paints come in aerosols. Otherwise use the enamel spray and then fuelproof it. remember to try a test piece first to be sure the fuel-proofer doesn't do anything nasty to the paint!

[john melia 1]

thanks bob , what about acrylic paint over butyrate dope , followed by arylic laquer to finish ?

[John Olsen 1]

Hmm, I'm going through some thinking about this at the moment. My Balsa USA Morane-Saulnier AI is covered in Koverall, went on very well and shrunk up nicely. Now I have to decide on a colour scheme and type of paint and fuel proofer. The BUSA suggested scheme is of course an American one, eg silver with the allied roundels. The French ones were a camouflage scheme which would look good and allows interesting markings like the little devil with the pitchfork. The trouble is the camo might make orientation more difficult although a plane this big should not be too hard to keep track of. Either way it will need to be either fuel proof paint, or have something suitable applied afterwards. Any thoughts?

John

[Bob Cotsford]

sorry, never knowingly tried acrylics

[Braddock, VC]

Try this site **LINK**

[john melia 1]

thanks braddock , but it would need to be in rattle cans , i have an airbrush , but the compressor is very limited , it will only do small areas at a time

going to have look at the local car shop , and then see if i can get a fuel proof laquer compatible with the car paint

[john melia 1]

went to car shop today and got some hi-cote acrylic high build primer , wish i had done this before i used the butyrate dope to fill the weave , this stuff would have filled it in one coat !!

i did notice that the primer softened the dope , but once it had gassed off everything tightened up again

[john melia 1]

Well after a long frustrating time going down the koverall route I have finally got the force 1 in primer , its took two tins of carplan hi build primer to finally cover the weave , very very time consuming and lots of rubbing down