What wattage soldering iron ???

[Peter Gain 1]

After prolonged use an iron will require filing, whether it is coated or not.

[Martian]

Shaunie that is just what I use . on a serious note soldering takes practice and those of us who were in the trade (radio television engineer) find it easy apart from all the valuable advise practice makes perfect so do just that on something not important

[Andy48]

Posted by Peter Gain 1 on 07/11/2013 23:16:14:

After prolonged use an iron will require filing, whether it is coated or not.

No no no no no!

Coated irons should not be filed. All that happens then is that you remove the iron coating, and then the copper core begins to dissolve in the solder.

I've got coated bits that have lasted many years without problems. ... but then I only use decent cored solder for electronic work.

[NigelH]

I don't believe that anyone has suggested using the classic leaded solder. It can be bought from eBay sellers and melts more easily than the modern lead free stuff that you can now buy in the shops.

[Mark Reynolds]

I use an antex 25w soldering iron with 0.8mm flux solder from amazon. Works fine. It solders everything I have fine with no issues.

[Rich too]

Does anyone else use the Dremel? I have one and its fantastic - does all of the jobs! Great for shrinking heat shrink tube after you have soldered.

**LINK**

 

 

Edited By Rich2 on 13/11/2013 11:09:38

[john melia 1]

Same here 25watt for soldering xt60's , small tip gets inside the plug and heats up quick

[Mouse]

Hi all

Just a quick update, I bought a 80 watt iron for just over £ 7 from a local tool shop, they are Chinese made but mainly sold in the U.S A, hence the low price.

Gets up to heat quickly and does a lovely job, nice and shiny joint, will probably get a lower wattage one next time I am near there.

Thank you for all your advice and tips on how to do a proper job.

Bill.

[Martyn Johnston]

As Martin Phillips suggested earlier, all XT60 connecters are not created equal.

The 'real' ones should not melt at all, and are superb. The cheap copies seem to be made of butter.

[Plummet]

Coated tips should non repeat not be filed. The iron coating prevents the solder and flux attacking the copper bit core.

Having said that, a bit that has had its coating damaged can develop cavities, that can be rather useful because you can "hook" a wire in the cavity and then use the iron to reposition it. (This is bodging!)

Another thing that is very useful is to have a damp sponge nearby. A quick rub of the hot tip on the sponge will remove excess solder and general crud from the bit. At work we had a soldering station, with a temperature controlled iron, and a sponge. Each station had an old washing-up liquid bottle full of water to squirt onto the sponge.

I remember watching someone repairing organ pipes. He used candle wax as flux, The melting point of the solder was hotter than the melting point of the pipe metal. SKILL!

Plummet

[Vecchio Austriaco]

As long as you are not using agressive flux the iron coating shoud stay on the tip. And of coarse don't leave the iron hot without using it for a long time. Agressive flux will eat away the iron, and then it is time to get the file out or even better invest into another tip

best is to keep 2 soldering irons - one for electronics - max. 30 watt, on this never use agressive flux but electronic soldering wire with colophoniuk core and it will last, one for large battery leads and undercarriage work, best would be 100 watt. This will be the one in contact with agressive flux, as the piano wires will not take the solder without flux.

my favorite iron is ERSA, very temperature stable and coming with a good quality cable which isn't stiff like the cheap stuff from China. For the 100W job it can be a cheap one, also because it is heavier, so the problem that the soldering iron will be pulled around by the stiff cable is less present.

VA, soldering department

[levent sevgi]

@mouse, it has been correctly identified in an earlier post that even 60W is enough and quite clearly, if the plastic is getting melted, the solder should melt too. In fact the solder should melt way before the plastic does. I think there must be some issue with your soldering material that needs to be verified. Just make sure that you let the iron get properly heated before applying solder to it. Thanks.

[John Cooper 1]

Hi. Can we not go back to basics with an 8oz solid copper iron heated over a gas ring, dipped in Bakers fluid& tinned works a treat! (My old plumbing master used to scream at us " well hot, well cleaned, well tinned, well soldered--well done" it still works after 60 years.

[Kevin Wilson]

I use an Antex model XS 25 watt iron with 4mm diagonal tip for XT60, Deans, 4mm bullets works very well given correct technique, ie clean tined surfaces and good resin cored flux. The Antex XS is available from Maplins, along with spare bits and spare elements if you manage to wear it out.

[Kevin Wilson]

Bill, regarding temperatures of irons. Temperature on an old fashioned simple soldering iron is by what they call thermal balance ie the iron will dissipate heat by convention and reach an equilibrium temperature. This is by the design of the iron irrespective of the electrical energy input. That is why a 100w iron is larger than a 15w iron. They should all be designed to run at a temperature sufficient to melt the solder and very little more. If memory serves me correctly 430C for standard 60/40 solder, whereas my whitemetal iron runs somewhere about 70C.

[Kevin Wilson]

I have far too many irons of differing sizes temperatures and technologies. My gas iron is very handy in the pits. The only iron that I have never got on with is my big chunky 100w Weller pistol iron. Although a lot of people seem to like them. I find it clumsy, bulky, heavy and not very effective. I do better with my Antex 25w or my 40w Weller for fine work

Edited By Kevin Wilson on 19/08/2014 23:24:09