Phoenix 45 and lipo setting help

[dan c 1]

Hello all.

Just trying to set up my cc phoenix 45 esc with the link before I plug in a lipo.

There is a setting I'm not sure on. Auto-lipo volts/cell It's set on default 3.2volts per cell. Should I change this? I have a Turnigy 2200 3s 11.1v battery

That suggests to me that the Auto-lipo volts/cell box should read 3.7

This in turn should affect the auto cut off voltage.

am I right or wrong?

Thanks guys

[dan c 1]

Another question, Silly question

My new lipo is at storage voltage. Is there any reason why I cant plug in and use it in the plane in the lounge with no prop on to test that I have it all wired up and all servos etc work ? Or should I fully charge it?

[Ben B]

The Auto-lipo volts / cell is just the low voltage cut-off voltage. The reason they called it "Auto-lipo volts/cell" as oppossed to just "LVC volts / cell" is that with most of the CC ESCs you can also manually set a LVC voltage (total) which would remain the same for any voltage pack. Hence the slightly confusing name- which does make it sound like it's a seperate LVC setting which dictates the volts needed for the cell count sensing circuit. 3.2v isn't too bad. At least to begin with.

IE the ESC will cut in your when your 3S pack is providing 9.6v. If you put the setting at 3.7v it would almost immediately go into LVC.

Absolutely no reason not to test the motor when the battery is charged to storage. The lipo still has useful capacity which you can use, just remember to store charge it afterwards if you use a significant amount of power in your testing (unlikely).

Hope the above makes some kind of sense- been up with my poorly daughter since 5am this morning so not completely compis mentis (sp!?)

[dan c 1]

Thanks for that - I guess I'll just leave the CUTOFF VOLTAGE set to auto & the AUTOLIPO VOLTS/CELL set at 3.2volts then ??!?!!

I have now got the servos working and doing the right things on the right channels but I dont seam to be able to get the motor running via throttle stick. Everthing else is ok, Have you any ideas??

[ken anderson.]

hello DC1 ...prob the wires to the motor need swapping around-and if you are using Futaba--- the throttle normally needs reversing........do the fiddling on with the motor without a prop on.......don't want to get you 'carol singers' caught.....(fingers) ...

ken Anderson ne..1......carol singers dept.

[dan c 1]

AHHHHHHHHHHHHhhhhhhhhhhhhh I had the esc plugged into a wrong channel ...My bad !!

Checked throttle reverse , it is set in reverse - so thats ok. thanks Ken.

Its in a heap all over the floor --- Guess I better get on a build the bixler 2 now . Any good tips while I'm at it????

[dan c 1]

Hi Ben, Can you see this picture of my castle page here?

 

Im still unsure about the autolipo volts/cell. Sure I shouldn't change it to 3.7v - Shouldn't it add up to 11.1v because there are 3 cells at 3.7v ?  Or shall I just shut up !!!!!!!!!!! (since I have no idea what I am on about)

 

Edited By dan c 1 on 28/11/2013 13:01:00

Edited By dan c 1 on 28/11/2013 13:02:52

Edited By dan c 1 on 28/11/2013 13:03:27

[Ben B]

The picture is fine. Absolutely 100% sure The settings as they are are good. The "auto" bit of the auto li-po setting is that it senses how many cells there are. The volts/cell setting sets the cut-off when in auto-mode. Alternatively you can change the cut-off voltage to a manual voltage from "auto" li-po but I wouldn't in case you even increase you cell count and forget to change it- it would be bad..... 3.2v as a cut-off is about right for most motor / battery pack combinations. I've occasionally had to drop the cut-off on my ESCs when I was pulling silly amounts of amps out of low-C packs causing voltage drop but I should have just got some better lipo packs anyway as they were dropping too low under load reducing watts available to my throttle stick!!

But basically it's fine as it is

If you want to test it you can always set it at 3.7v per cell but as soon as you start the motor you'll hit the soft-cut (even with a fully charged battery) and you will hear the revs dropping.

[Ben B]

PS it's always better to ask then to plough ahead and make an expensive mistake :D I can remember when I "taught" myself to fly. The plane shot across the field the rudder promptly fell off just before take-off and then it took off only to demonstrate that the CoG was massively backwards (forgot to check) and the aerilons were reversed. Wasn't a long flight!

[dan c 1]

Lol , There must be plenty of first attempt disasters! Funny to look back on I guess.

I am trying to avoid destroying items really, that's my main aim especially as I have no model shops here and I hate days of waiting for post.

I have been flying reflex xtr sim so ive picked a plane and used that & my TX to copy what it does on screen so I at least get the flaps and what have you moving in the right way!

I just have to figure out where to put the bits in the fuse now. Which brings me nicely to my next knowledge picking attempt !

I am using 35mhz for now so I have an aerial to run. Where or how should I run it in the bixler2? Any special tips on placing the esc & rx or do I just clamp it all in somehow........

Thanks Ben

[Pete B]

You can use double-sided servo tape or stick-on Velcro for attaching the ESC. I've attached mine to the side of the fuselage inside the cockpit. Make sure the heatsink side of the ESC is exposed to the air - which means you attach the ESC by the bumpy side, not the nice flat surface... Always try and ensure it is fitted so that it gets some airflow past it to carry away the heat.

Rx's can be fitted the same way and I use Velcro on my 2.4GHz Rx's. It was always advised that 35MHz Rx's be wrapped in foam for protection but, given that it's already arguably got plenty of foam protection, in this case I'd use Velcro. That does provide some vibration resistance. On my Bixler, the Rx is mounted on the floor behind the battery bay, well away from the ESC. This is more important with 35MHz as there can be more susceptibility to interference with 35MHz than with 2.4GHz.

I'd normally say just bring the aerial through the fuselage wall and tape it along the side of the fus, leaving any excess free to dangle behind - don't coil or shorten it in any way! However, with the wire snakes running the length of the fus, I'm wondering if there may be an effect on reception? What do others think?

An alternative would be to just run the aerial along one wing and tape it down along its length. That would work fine.

Pete

[dan c 1]

So, just to double check ? Is there a heat sink side on the phoenix 45?

[Pete B]

Yes, there will be but never having seen one in the flesh, I'll leave it for an owner to describe it. Looking at the pics I've found, mounting it with the label side facing outwards should be fine - that is probably the heatsink, unless there's a flat or grooved metal plate on the other side...

Pete