Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Ok here goes what I'm trying to do is somehow wire my 8 channel b17 so the wing can come off for transport, 'that itself being two mtr' my first try was a disaster i tried a block connector from maplins but this was way to big for soldering servo wires, it would be great if there was a servo block connector with a male and female which i could simply connect when the wing is in place,but after trying there's no such thing on the market,the other thought was to make the looms longer so there would be no need to disconnect the wiring just fold the wing back on its self, but there's too many flaws in that. Any ideas at all would be grateful. Cheers richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Hi Richie, on my Typhoon I am trying this solution,... I have 5 in wing servos and that is a 15-way HD connector. The biggest challenge I've had is the opposite to you - that connector is quite small,... And so the soldering job is a bit tricky,... The plan is to have a matching umbillical lead with a plug on the end from the fuselage. Hope this helps. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 I use a 6s lipo balance lead. You can buy them from Giant Shark with male and female ends. So much easier. I just use the single red for power to all servos/LEDs etc, then next black for all negatives, and then the following wires for separate signals. If you use, from the Rx, one male going to the left side and one female going to the right side, you will never get the sides wrongly connected and have any mishaps. I've used them in my big FMS mustang and my Vulcan. Cheap as chips too! Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Hopefully these photos show what I mean? Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Thanks beb i looked at them in maplins as you say a tricky bit of soldering time for a rethink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Richie how good is your soldering ? if not good practice doing small solder joints to pins when your happy make a jig to hold the connector .and how many wires do you expect to connect ..the best way to solder pin s on connectors is to use a small 15 watt iron it only has a 2mm bit that way you will not overheat the joint Martian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Daz tell me i have 6 servos in the wing 2 aileorn 2 flaps 2 bomb doors am i rite in thinking that all 6 positive wires solder direct to the one wire on the balance lead and so on, then i would do the same on the reciever end using small servo leads as patch lead onto the other balance lead before joining together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Thanks Martin my soldering is ok buy never done anything this small and my iron is way outdated so that alone tells me it time to change,i did try to solder servo wire with it but it melted the outer coating so tomorrow i will invest in a with15 watt cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Beb on your idea i noticed you are keeping all the servos as individuals which is the way i was thinking when i started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Posted by Richie P on 08/12/2013 20:48:39: Daz tell me i have 6 servos in the wing 2 aileorn 2 flaps 2 bomb doors am i rite in thinking that all 6 positive wires solder direct to the one wire on the balance lead and so on, then i would do the same on the reciever end using small servo leads as patch lead onto the other balance lead before joining together Yes Richie. If you are worried that there would be too much current going through one positive lead, you could use a couple of these connectors to split the loads, but again use a male and a female from the Rx (going to one side) and then have a male and female opposing connector in the wing so that it cannot be mixed up, and the same again on the other wing. I don't know the price of the connectors that BEB has shown above, but the balance leads are 50p each with male and female connectors **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Ok daz on the same playing field now splitting them would be a good idea two connectors are better than all the wires ive got Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 Hi Richie - yes keeping them separate was a deliberate decision - for all the reasons given here about three quarters of the way down. You'll see why I don't use a balance plug! BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon burch Posted December 8, 2013 Share Posted December 8, 2013 I use the 4 way Ashlok connectors which Phil stocks at fighter aces. If you are confident crimping, you can have up to 4 servos connected by one plug. Plus the fact the clip keeps them secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Beb thats a work art iam going to have a good read of your thread tomorrow all the best on the maiden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 8, 2013 Author Share Posted December 8, 2013 Cheers simon will take a closer look at you idea as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Hi again Richie. I've just re-read your post (#7) and now realise that you don't have 12 servos in total! Therefore, a single 6s lead will be fine. In my Vulcan, both wings added together in total I had 2 aileron, 2 elevator, 2 retracts, landing lights and nav lights all running from 2 sets of 6s leads. In my FMS Mustang I have exactly the same except I have flaps instead of the elevator, for obvious reasons, lol. From the Rx, get some 15cm servo extension leads and chop off the female end (the bigger end). Get 2 sets of the 6s leads which have the male and female ends (as in the Giant Shark link I added above). Cut the leads in half, so you now should have 2 male ends and 2 female ends. Take 1 male and 1 female end, these will be your Rx side of things. Place the remaining male and female to one side for now. Decide how you want to do the next bit but have the male end doing one side of the wing from the Rx, and the female end doing the other side of the wing from the Rx. From the 15cm extension leads, connect all servo + to the single red lead on the 6s and connect all servo - to the next black lead. Then connect your servo signal wires individually to the remainder of the balance leads available. In fact you will only need 5 wires for each side so a 4s lead will suffice, unless you wanted to add nav lights? In my Vulcan I am using metal geared digital servos and haven't had any issues whatsoever regarding current. Now, in the wing, fit the opposing side of the balance lead to all servos in order to correspond with what's coming from the Rx, so that you will never fit the starboard side of the wing controls to the port side and have back to front controls! BEB's connector is brilliant in that you can have 5 servo's individually wired and it is like a fixed socket so that the wing can connect into it when fully secure. I didn't give these type of connectors a thought, and decided to try the balance lead way, which I have had great success with so far. Either way clearly works, but for me it is far easier soldering wires to wires than it is soldering wires to little pins. I hate soldering at the best of times! In fact, I'm sure that there are loads of connectors that will do the job just as successfully. Have a look at some of the mail order electronics or computer component suppliers, like these **LINK** Maplins isn't like it used to be! Good luck Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Hi Daz with the b17 I'm going down the road with the balance lead idea as i think it will work fine with the b17 as it is foam, i also have another model with lots of ply in so with that one I'm going to try Bebs idea as the units will mount better, so all in all both ideas do the same job yet have their place in the way models are made, so yet again i thank thank you all for your input cheers richie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Jones Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 I use 9 and 15 pin d-sub connectors as per BEB. Failing that the answer you're looking for is Ashlok connectors. Similar to regular servo connectors in the type of pins used and lock positively together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depron Daz Posted December 9, 2013 Share Posted December 9, 2013 Posted by Richie P on 09/12/2013 10:41:25: Hi Daz with the b17 I'm going down the road with the balance lead idea as i think it will work fine with the b17 as it is foam, i also have another model with lots of ply in so with that one I'm going to try Bebs idea as the units will mount better, so all in all both ideas do the same job yet have their place in the way models are made, so yet again i thank thank you all for your input cheers richie Absolutely Richie. Bot ideas have their respective places. It was a very experienced modeller at my club that came up with the idea, so I cannot take any credit. Would it even be possible to even use BEB's idea at the leading edge of a balsa wing to take the place of locating dowels and have the usual screw fix for the trailing edge? I can certainly see the benefits of having a secure connection using those types. Perhaps I'll give them a go when I build my large 65" balsa Spitfire. The wing is in two pieces but I want to make it one piece and perhaps these metal connectors will be what I use. Therefore we have both learnt from this thread, well done! Out of curiosity, what would be the maximum current these metal connectors could take? Daz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Hi Daz each pin can carry 7.5 working amps per contact pin,they are gold connectors and each side has a cradle to make soldering easier, the pins are set in glass fiber reinforced fiber and small heatshrink fits over the pins perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Daz just had a look as the asheock connectors mat is using and they look the buisness i tried to paste a link but did not work so i just typed in ashlock connectors and there's loads I'm going to get some of these,you just have to make sure youve got the right cramping tool if you not going to solder. This is all good stuff chaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richie P Posted December 9, 2013 Author Share Posted December 9, 2013 Sorry it's SimonBurch that's put us onto the ashlock connectors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxa47 Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Hi,at the risk of making a complete fool of myself, have you considered a separate rx in each wing? Unless you are on some exotic system, rxs are 20 quid or so and then feed the power through a Deans or similar using some thicker wire. One simple robust connector for each wing. And before you get picky about the current carrying capability of your chosen connector, remember the horrid little plug and socket on the end of your rx connecting to the battery. Fine for the microamps of the pulse but for say ten digital servos.? I know we've all got away with it but it's not good practise. Why are Powerbox systems so expensive? Is there not a market for a simple passive bus system with a high quality wiping contact switch feeding the battery to the servos avoiding the rx? It would mean changing the battery pack connector for something meatier but again Deans would do. Light blue touch paper and stand well back. Cheers Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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