Luca Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 I am running in a DLE 20cc on a newly overhauled Flair Giles I have been advised to use the HPI one shot 2 s oil, I belive is fully synthetic but I could not fund much information out there. http://www.hpiracing.co.uk/piw.php?partNo=101911 Anyone using it? many thanks Edited By Luca on 15/12/2013 20:05:36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Running in a DLE 20 myself but using Halfords fully synthetic scooter oil (purple bottle) been using this for years on all my petrol engines, running in the DLE at 30:1 on a 15x8 on the rich side and has been superb over the first few tanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangar 9 nut Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 Hi Mate I use Evolution 2 stroke oil from Horizon fully synthetic ideal for running in and great for normal running ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 Many thanks to you both for your feed backs. most of the people at the field use motorcycle fully synth racing oil and regardless to the brand everyone is happy. it is early day for me but I would like to take the cylinder head off after a few liters and see how much carbon built up has formed. Some people in the US seem to be happy using fully synth oil at 40:1 to keep the engine clean! No warranty here though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I've got three DLE 55's and have run them in with mineral oil for about 5 litres. I then use Belray HR synthetic at 50:1. It's quite pricey but as they recommend 50:1 it's very economical. All 3 engines run like clockwork with virtually no residue from the exhaust. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 nice !! I like the idea of clean fuselage bellies! having said that I am not sure if I you go much higher ( less oil) than 40:1 with a 20cc engine. less fuel runs thru it compare to a 50cc, consequently less oil to lubricate I guess. Edited By Luca on 16/12/2013 19:19:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Pettit Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I fly a dle 30 lots and use motul fully synth at 50:1 also run the same mix in a 26cc rcgf and agm30. That giles looks nice, I have the pink cmpro version and i'm now looking at a recover thanks to your pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 UPDATE Unfortunately after 6 successful flights, last week the engine suddenly became very difficult to start, it looked like the carb and the engine became flooded before it had the time to fire up. The only time it started and run for a few secs was with full throttle and no choke I spent and hour and a half at the field flipping the prop with no success ( i dont have a starter ...yet) Finally I decided to go home, I took the tank out, check lines and filter ( non foaming clunk) all ok ignition works took engine out and the carb apart , check the filter, injectors and seals , all ok as far as i can tell. today I put it back together with an ngk new plug and tried again with same result! it starts for a few sec on full throttle only and the dies with fuel pouring out of the carb air intake. anyone had a similar experience? any Idea on what to do next? Many thanks Luca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Luca, One of my DLE 55's last year started playing up. The engine cut whilst taxing out. Trying to start it again proved futile. It would fire, even backfire, but would only run momentarily then stop. I too checked everything to no avail. In frustration I removed the ignition unit and noticed that one of the wires seemed to be shorting where it comes out of the case. This would seem to be the answer as the spark was available when flicking ( I never use a starter) but when running the vibration shorted the wire. I replaced the ignition with a Rexcel unit which has rubber grommets protecting the wires as they leave the unit. Connected up and first flick it ran like clockwork. So don't be fooled by thinking that because you have a spark it can't be the ignition unit. Hope this helps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Thanks Steve, I just checked the wires coming out of the ignition box, they have a rubber protection where they come out and they seem to be intact. I understand that this does not guarantee that the ignition is playing up anyway. Is there a way to check it or a I better off buying a one and try it? Luca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Sorry Luca, I don't know if there is any way of checking the unit. I just bit the bullet and bought another one, they are freely available on ebay for about £38 I think, trouble is it might not be that in your case, although it sounds familiar. If you do go down that route and it fixes it I would be interested to hear from you. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 luca you can buy ignition checkers quite cheap h.k. sell them sorry cant do links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 found it, thanks John! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__48141__Gas_engine_CDI_Ignition_Test_and_Timing_Setup_Tool_Includes_Crankshaft_Degree_Wheel_EU_.html will keep you all posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 if fuel is pouring out from the carb as you say, how high is your tank in relation to the carb, could it be syphoning / leaking through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 the tank is at the same level of the carb. I thought that it is not critical in petrol engines as they are pumped. Edited By Luca on 05/01/2014 21:51:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 You are right Luca, the position of the tank is irrelevant, the fuel that is coming out of the exhaust is probably due to the engine being turned without being used. This also indicates that the problem is not due to fuel starvation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codename-John Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Posted by Luca on 05/01/2014 21:50:48: the tank is at the same level of the carb. I thought that it is not critical in petrol engines as they are pumped. Edited By Luca on 05/01/2014 21:51:14 it doesnt matter if they are low or further away but if its higher than the carb gravity still affects it, you did say that fuel was pouring out of the carb not exhaust as steve suggests above, is that what you meant ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 agree with steve, you sure your ignition battery is ok ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 p.s. luca said he was flying it ok previously assume he has not moved tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Posted by Codename-John on 05/01/2014 22:05:28: Posted by Luca on 05/01/2014 21:50:48: the tank is at the same level of the carb. I thought that it is not critical in petrol engines as they are pumped. Edited By Luca on 05/01/2014 21:51:14 it doesnt matter if they are low or further away but if its higher than the carb gravity still affects it, you did say that fuel was pouring out of the carb not exhaust as steve suggests above, is that what you meant ? actually fuel pours out the exhaust as well as the carb air intake. battery is 6.6v life , yes it seems OK on multimeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steveflys Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Luca, DLE ignitions should only be used with 4.8v, unless you are using a regulator 6.6 could be enough to fry the electrics. Some other makes now use 2 cell lipos but my DLE's certainly state 4.8v. Just a thought. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 have a look on high alpha web lots of petrol fliers and engine advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 on dle 30 its 4.8-8.4v worth a look though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luca Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 my dle ignition states working current 4.8 to 8.4v, it is the second version I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 6.6 life is ok if its not firing when you flip, it sounds like a spark issue ignition problems are not unusual, tester will show if its ok im no expert, all I can say is needles are sensitive, have you tweaked it and gone too far ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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