Ton van Munsteren Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Hi Glyn, Sorry not clear what you mean but I think its the rib W05 at the point where the inner and outer wing panels come together. Both ribs from the inner and outer panel should have a capstrip on the bottom and top to make them stronger and easier for the covering to hold. The ribs there are less high and should have a support of 1,5mm under the rib that wil, hold the rib at the correct hight. The capstrip will follow lateron. Rib W05 with 1.5mm balsa for support Rib Wo5 with the capstrip on top and bottom Hoping its more clear. Great build by the way and love to see that everyone is helping to get there. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 For the earlier question here is a pic that shows the ply parts for the nylon bolt to support and not dammage that balsa. Cheers Ton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 The plan shows capstrips on just WO5 and WO6 presumably to have something for the covering to adhere to at the dihedral change. So capstrips seem essential here. If only 1 wing panel has been built with the ribs too low itwould be a good idea to use the remaining unbuilt WO5 & 6 as a pattern to make a replacement rib for the built wing. Then carefully cut away the badly fitted rib and replace. Better than having trouble fixing covering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Yes great help. Thankyou. I don't think I have a disaster anywhere. I'll follow your pics. Here are a few pics to help the previous explanation, better than a thousand words probably Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ton van Munsteren Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Hi Glyn, Looking good but it would have been a little easier to sheet the lower side first and than place the blocks for the dowels and the nylon bolts. Cheers Ton Edited By Ton van Munsteren on 18/01/2015 23:51:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi Ton, Good point! I have already realised that but I managed with a little extra work! Thanks for the tip anyway. Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 So it's not just the end ribs that are low? The printed RCME plan caption says the TE is 6mm while the drawing of the ribs shows a TE of about 5mm. So about 1mm discrepancy and if you used 1/4 inch TE then that's 1.5 mm discrepancy. Looks even more in your photo. Were the ribs homemade or as supplied CNC cut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 If all the ribs are consistently low then a possible solution is as follows...... Take a full width sheet of 1/16 balsa and plane and sand the edge down to nothing over about 3/4 inch width then slice off this tapered 3/4 inch strip to glue on top of the ribs with the thick edge abutting the exiting TE. Then if necesssary plane original TE down to meet the new strip. This would increase the TE strength a lot at the expense of a little extra weight. ( it's so much easier to use a full width sheet when planing as it gives something to hold onto! Otherwise use a couple of 1/2 inch square bits of double sided tape to hold balsa down to bench whilst sanding. Anything more than a few small bits of tape will prevent removal) Edited By kc on 19/01/2015 13:45:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi tried to place some pics of my build, but do not seem to be able to, not that far advanced, Will try again later, but do not know how to put them into album, all the best Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Photos have to be in JPEG format on your computer ( I think it may be essential to close the file so it's not already being used on your computer), then you go to Albums - Create an Album - select Browse and select the file from wherever it is on your computer - click Add - then wait a little while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi Mike Click 'Albums' at the top of the page (in the dark red band that has lots of little icons in it) that will take you to: **LINK** Then click the link to make a new photo album. Create a Photo Album Give the album a name and a description if you want and leave the tick in the 'make public' box. As soon as you click the 'Create Album' button it will take you to a screen where you can upload some images, you can upload 5 files at the same time if your internet connection is quick enough. Edited: Also see tutorials at: http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=66178 and http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=66132 Edited By WolstonFlyer on 19/01/2015 16:20:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Wow thanks WolstonFlyer, I will have a look later to see if I can do it, I can send photos by email but this is a bit different , thanks again Mike. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yes, i have the CNC pack from Holland. Almost all ribs have a depth, at the trailing edge of of 4 mm. This correct when compared to the plan. If it is then as the TE has thickness off 6mm I now must assume that 2mm must be removed from the top surface of the edge itself. This may not be a problem, I have been told by a local modeller that it is most unusual in a purpose cut kit. I think that this is my best and easiest option. This should leave the wing with a 4mm thick TE tapering to something less, about 2mm I think from memory. I did not work on it yesterday, as it was nice I actually went flying, first time this year! Many thanks to you all, sorry to be a pain with my silly questions. You are helping me get there. I have plenty to do, all of which you have covered, so Ill get on. Next unknown is how to cover it, especially the compound curves on the nose. Ill be back, no doubt... Thanks once again, appreciated a lot. Regards, Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yes, i have the CNC pack from Holland. Almost all ribs have a depth, at the trailing edge of of 4 mm. This correct when compared to the plan. If it is then as the TE has thickness off 6mm I now must assume that 2mm must be removed from the top surface of the edge itself. This may not be a problem, I have been told by a local modeller that it is most unusual in a purpose cut kit. I think that this is my best and easiest option. This should leave the wing with a 4mm thick TE tapering to something less, about 2mm I think from memory. I did not work on it yesterday, as it was nice I actually went flying, first time this year! Many thanks to you all, sorry to be a pain with my silly questions. You are helping me get there. I have plenty to do, all of which you have covered, so Ill get on. Next unknown is how to cover it, especially the compound curves on the nose. Ill be back, no doubt... Thanks once again, appreciated a lot. Regards, Glyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 sorry must have clicked twice!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deadman Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi. I also have a CNC kit from Holland and the rib height at TE is smaller than TE strip of wood itself. As this is my first kit of this size/nature I just continue on with the building of it and assumed it would "come out in the wash".... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Because the ribs are inset ( notched) into the TE by 3mm so the trailing edge needs to be almost 5 mm to fit the 4mm ribs. So trailing edge should have been 5mm stock. Actually 3/16 inch seems the real TE thickness. It is possible to buy 3/16 by 3/4 inch TE if you want. So I think we should advise people to amend their plan to show 5mm ( 3/16 inch ) TE instead of 6mm whether building from CNC kit or scratch. Edited By kc on 19/01/2015 17:22:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi Paul, Don't cover it until they are flush. That's the advice I have been getting. Apparently it would look pretty poor. When I get to it, I'm gonna plane/shave my TE down to the ribs. Let you know if it's a winner. It just seem odd, well to me, that the two items, rib and edge are not both 4mm, or both 6mm. But what do I know. Fun learning though, eh. Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Glyn, they are notched in 3mm which accounts for about 1mm in thickness. 5mm or 3/16 inch TE would be just about correct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have looked carefully at the images supplied Ton. On careful inspection he too has difference in the two heights, rib and trailing edge, before any shaping is done. I reckon this proves that the excess thickness on the TE is removed during the planing operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 It looks as though he used plain balsa not triangular for these tip panels. Therefore planing or sanding would be needed. I think you will find it difficult to plane the edge without the whole structure racking and loosening the glue joints. Fixing down with double sided tape might help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glyn44 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yes you are correct. That's what is supplied in kit. So it does have to planed after fitting to the ribs, Ton has photos of him doing just that. I think you will find them early on on this forum. I'll see how it, and will try your tape tip. Ta. Glyn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Still trying to up load photos but it does not seem to work for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Adams 3 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 If it has worked the first one is Servos. next ready to cover but a bit more sanding. Third battery box but no Velcro. will try to get some more later when nearly finished. Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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