mike ryan Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 This is nothing new or revolutionary but having cut approximately then sanded the pieces for my fuselage sides, I decided there must be a quicker method. I had been using my razor saw to cut the angles and wanted to do away with sanding. I had a small mitre guide for use with a junior hacksaw, so I araldited some 1/8th ply to the sides,and then cut new guide slots with my razor saw. I drilled and slotted 2 holes in the mitre block to allow me to attach it to the edge of my board. I could now place over the plan and Mark on either side of the wood the angle to be cut. After transferring the marks using a square around 3 sides I cut the angle with my razor saw using the block to keep it all square. This is now really quick and totally accurate, producing perfect mated joints every time. Like I said it's nothing new but once I started doing it this way I have found its such a good way of producing accurate angle cuts it almost feels like cheating! Some pictures are in my albums as I can't put them in here using my phone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hi Mike That's a really neat great idea. I'll steal that one if you don't mind. The photos don't really do it justice. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ryan Posted March 17, 2014 Author Share Posted March 17, 2014 Hi Martyn,It really does make perfect angles plus when you sand you can end up with a slightly less than flat surface which you don't when you use a razor saw. It's good for capping strips too I found. Glad it's of use to you.Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Laughton Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Mike As it seems such a good idea can you post a pic of this please? Or send it in to the magazine for them to print perhaps? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Laughton Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Mike - I did look at your album pic but its not clear to me? Maybe I am really getting to be an old dodderer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ryan Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Hi Jon,I will take a better pic but at the moment I can't attach it to the post as I am using my phone to do this, my laptop is temporarily out of action. Maybe a moderator on here could attach it for me. Glad it's useful to folk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ryan Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 Photos added to album. I hope they are a little clearer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Mike, I've copied the images from your album. Maybe I'm also becoming an old dodderer but I'm not clear on how what you've done has improved how the mitre box is used without any mods. Photo a) Photo b) Photo c) Photo d) Photo e) Edited By PatMc on 18/03/2014 17:38:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ryan Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 The slot was just a little too large, being that it was for a hacksaw. I used it like that for a while but decided that it would be better if it was modified a little to be used with the razor saw. Also having slots to attach it to the edge of the board is one less hand you need. As I said it's not revolutionary but I know a lot of folk cut and sand joints and this way is a lot quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WolstonFlyer Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Similar to this one with thin slots, mitre box for razor saws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevo Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 I just place the balsa on the plan, mark on it with a scalpel, cut slightly oversize, and turn around to the revolving disc sander. I can cut some really shallow angles that way 15-20 degrees.. just right for splicing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Got you now, Mike. Here's a couple of simple jigs I made from some scrap hardwood strip, in this case 1/4 sq to suit what i was building. E.g. with longerons in place on the plan the exact size of spacers can be marked for right angle cuts or angled cuts then transfered to a mitre box & cut verticaly on the mark. Hopefuly the photos make it clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wilson Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Very simple but effective. I am going to make myself some of those. Thank you for sharing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike ryan Posted March 18, 2014 Author Share Posted March 18, 2014 I will too, good idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew767 Posted March 18, 2014 Share Posted March 18, 2014 Pat That's one of those special ideas that when you see it,makes you wonder why you didn't think of it yourself. Fantastic. Thank you. Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I am going to suggest a completely different gadget to measure the angle and guide the saw. My saw guide uses the tiny but very strong magnets that are used as hatch catches ( I bought mine from Giant Shark) The magnets are recessed into the wood and are flush with the wood, held in with epoxy.. The pivot is a countersunk bolt that is screwed into the ply ( it taps its own thread if the hole is tapping size -- 5mm for M6 ) which means it does not loosen with the wing nut. The saw guide part has a clearance hole for the thread - 6.1mm for M6. Actually I used a 1/4 Whitworth thread which is still common for wing nuts .. Note the wing nut 'wings' must be clear of the saw, so the hole is a little offset from centre. The saw used must be deep enough to allow any 'back' to clear the guide, therefore I suggest a japanese type pullsaw which has no back. This is a most useful tool for cutting ply etc as well. In use the magnets are just strong enough to allow the saw to slide along them but not to move sideways. The balsa is held against the ply part with the thumb whilst cutting. When measuring the angle off the plan a steel rule could be used in place of the saw blade to extend down to the plan for accuracy. Edited By kc on 19/03/2014 17:05:19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 I didnt mention although it should be obvious that my saw guide relies on the edge with magnets being exactly at 90 degrees to the underside to ensure accuracy of the cut. Using a piece of timber with this edge already machined square may be easier for some people. It is also important to have the edges parallel so measuring from any edge is equally accurate. The same with the ply base.I think you will be surprised how accurately the magnets guide the saw if you have never used this type of saw guide before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I thought Giant Shark sold these 'hatch' magnets but they dont seem listed now. Anyone know a source for these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antiquated Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I haven't used them, but **LINK** seem to have quite a wide range. There is also **LINK** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John F Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Some eBay sellers are also very good, I've bought loads of them for modelling purposes on a few occasions from one seller - Spider-Magnets http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Spider-Magnets Edited By John F on 20/03/2014 20:07:49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Thanks for the info, it should help anyone who wants to make one of these magnetic saw guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian ludwell Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hello, Having just built the BB J60,i looked at another build and decided on the BB Elf Biplane. I notice that a forum member Mike Ryan has built this model. Are there any forums dedicated to this model build. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mowerman Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 'Dead' brushless outrunners are a good source of small powerfull magnets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyclicscooby Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Maplin sell them in various sizes, from 3x2mm to 6x4mm or similar.... Got a few. YA28 is the no. for the 6x2mm, which i've used (x2) to hold the 'bonnet' style batt access panel on my 1200mm Sbach.. HTH's.. Luv Chrisie.. xx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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