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Folland Gnat Build


Steve McLaren
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Sorry Mark, I had to take the family away for a week of sunshine, so no progress at all. Will get back to the build later today when I've mowed the lawn, and all that stuff!

What is this Gnat and Vulcan video that you mention? Where do I find it?

Peter, That's a much more impressive cutting set-up than mine. I had an old 12V transformer from a garden light set, rated at 3.5 Amps, so I couldn't make a very long bow. I chose 26 inches to go with the 26SWG wire I bought, to give the 'right' cutting temperature. So I'll have to stick to small models, or make the wings in sections.

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I had glued the leading and trailing edges to the wing panels before I went off on holiday.

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Today I razor-planed and sanded them to shape, and I discovered two interesting things.

1. The slight under-camber seems to have disappeared now the panels are completely dry.

2. The root rib template shape provided on the plan is not the right shape! Based on my earlier comments on the plan accuracy, I should have known better than to use the shape drawn on the plan!. If you ever make this model, I would suggest you copy the root rib shape from the main wing section drawn on the fuselage side view instead. The template shape has too much curvature on the underside of the leading edge. You can see the problem in the photo below. I will have to add a strip of 1/16th sheet, for about 3/4 inch behind the leading edge, and do a bit more sanding.

p9070081.jpg

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Today I've glued the wing tips in position, and tack bonded the trailing edges/ailerons in position, so that |I can shape everything in one go. I've also added those extra strips of 1/16th balsa but they're not in the photo.

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Then, I drilled the holes and cut the slots in the fuselage sides for the all-moving tailplane mechanism, before joining the the 2 fuselage sides together.

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The plan suggests a mechanism based on a commercial bellcrank (which as far I can tell is no longer available), and some 10 gauge wire running in plywood bearings. I reckoned this was all going to be a bit flexible and loose. So, Having done the JP build and been very impressed by the aileron torque rod design which Andy Blackburn designed into that, I thought I could make a mechanism based on the same components which should be much more rigid and positive. So the bellcrank is cut from a sheet of fibreglass, with some local reinforcing doublers epoxied on. The axle and the rear joiner bar are made the same way as Andy's torque rods - 3mm carbon fibre rods epoxied into 5/32" aluminium tubes. And the axle will run in bearing made from a blue snake outer. I'll then epoxy some ply reinforcings onto the fuselage sides where the bearing tube comes through.

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Lovely photo Phil, and 2 nice paint schemes to think about. I like that one above too, posted by Chuck. I haven't seen that one before - presumably a Red Arrows special edition? It looks a bit complicated to do in solarfilm though.

No progress on the build this last weekend - had to take my daughter off to university. But got my aileron linkages and hinges done tonight.

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Mark, Yes, when I set out on this build, that was my intended scheme. It's still top of my list, but now I'm starting to wonder what colour the orange/red actually is. In the few photos I've found, it doesn't look like the dayglo orange which several PSSA members have used on the JP, but it doesn't look like a true red either. So I'm not sure whether I can a find a solarfilm (or similar) which will be right. So I'm starting to think a red arrows scheme might be the best option. ( I don't want to have to do all that heavy tissue, dope and paint stuff, what with my wings being smaller than the plan,etc!).

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I put the 1/4 inch bottom sheet on the fuselage today (after first applying a few strips of glass cloth and epoxy resin to reinforce the triangular sections near the nose where I had to make saw cuts to help with bending the fuselage sides.

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I joined the wings together last night, again reinforcing the joint with a strip of glass cloth and epoxy resin.

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Today I've dug a couple of holes in the wing for the servos, and glued on some lite ply 'picture frames' for mounting. I've also fitted one of the 2 anhedral braces recommended on the plan, and trimmed the front section off the wing where it fits into the fuselage.

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Fitting the anhedral braces is quite tricky, and I'm not convinced that they will have any significant strengthening effect on the wing. The wing seems perfectly strong enough with a fibreglass skin joint and a PVA foam core joint to me. So I think I might leave out the rear brace.

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Today I stock the nose block onto the fuselage. It's just a few pieces of hard 1/2 inch balsa ( and one 1/4 inch) with alternating grain direction.

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but I spent most of my time on making templates for, and cutting, the blue foam 'side cheeks' for the fuselage. it took me a while to decide on the shapes. I didn't use the section profiles shown on the plan because they looked too semicircular compared the airfix model (my reference), and as usual, the dimensions were inconsistent in each view. There's a bit of sanding to do on the rear end of the rear section to get it o blend in to the jet pipe a bit better, but it's the best I could do.

p9210097.jpg

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I glued the side fairings or 'cheeks' onto the fuselage last night.

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and then tonight I cut away the recesses for the wing,so I was able to put the 2 together for the first time.

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It's starting to look a bit like a Gnat! If you're wondering why the side fairings don't reach all the way to the jet pipe, it's because I thought I would do the last little bit in balsa so that I can open it out with a fairly thin edge (like we did on the jet provost).

The pot of Humbrol 209 arrived today, and it confirms that I should go for the dayglo orange solarfilm.

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