Ross Clarkson Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Hello, My Phoenix 2000 glider foam hinges (Aileron and Flap) have disappointingly come away. They are the cheap simple type which basically are a continuation of the foam itself that creates the hinge. What is the best way to repair them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delta Foxtrot Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 UHU Por does a good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thanks David. Iv'e just been doing some research online and see the glue (Literally) back on method. I have UHU and Foam 2 Foam glues. Will they do or is UHU Por different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 UHU and UHU POR are very different glues, UHU POR is safe for foam - UHU (ordinary) eats some foam!!! I have only ever seen UHU POR in model shops and on-line Foam 2 Foam I don't know, if you want to test it, put a TINY droplet somewhere out of the way, but where you can wipe it off easily if it goes pear shaped....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I wouldn't be trying to repair the original hinges myself. I'd be putting some pin type hinges in, there's a selection here, for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Thanks Dave. No, I have Foam 2 Foam for my models as I know its safe. I just did not realise or comprehend that these glues were both strong enough and flexible enough. I can't believe glue alone will hold a control surface but i suppose that's why i love this hobby, learning every day. Brilliant, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted November 20, 2014 Author Share Posted November 20, 2014 Ahhh, now you have just thrown the spanner in the works i was thinking about Chris! Surely it would better to put some proper hinges in, than just glue alone. Hmmmmmm... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hopkin Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 +1 for not relying on just glue as hinges...... Plenty of commercial types available, mylar hinges are probably the easiest in foam, Edited By Dave Hopkin on 20/11/2014 22:41:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Just done mine Ross, the hinge was rubbish so I fitted these straight away...Kavan hinges John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BOB GADD Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Try Welders Glue I used it on a foam indoor flyer and it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltshire Flyer Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 I would just use hinge tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Bran Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Have people here stating not to use "glue" hinges on EPP/EPO/etc ever properly explored using them? I own a large collection of foam planes, from tiny indoor to 2m, and mostly they have POR hinging. As one example, for a number of years I ran Indoor full contact combat sessions using an EPP flat plate plane called the "FireFly" (RCG, Foamies, Scratchbuilt). These all had POR hinging. Apart from frequent multiple impact from other planes, props and direct hit at speed, they also have extreme throws, so the glue hinge is flexed a lot (mine have 60 degree EACH WAY elevons and as close to 90 degree rudder as possible!!) In this case, the hinge is made to a clean foam knife edge join line. Both edges are angle cut. A small bead of POR is run along each extreme edge, and the glue is allowed to almost dry. On a flat surface the two parts are then slid together into contact. As another example, both my Windrider Foxes (one powered) also have POR hinging, as the default thinned foam "hinge" on a long thin aileron does not allow even bend from a single horn position and puts too much servo loading on. One is more than five years old, flown frequently, and NO failure has occured. Clean, flexible, near invisible, and very long lasting. Another BIG advantage is that it is efficient, as there is NO gap! No ugly tape, no ugly loss inducing gaps. I have built more than 30 planes this way. I use nothing else on EPP foam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingman Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Yep - agree with Dave - exactly as I do it - POR is the way to go - quick, cheap and permanent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted November 21, 2014 Author Share Posted November 21, 2014 Thanks for all your help guys, will mull it over and decide which type i think i prefer. Good to know there is not just one option. Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ross Clarkson Posted November 23, 2014 Author Share Posted November 23, 2014 So, i decided to go with the glued hinge method. I will admit, i was a bit dubious as iv'e had no experience of this at all before but after leaving it 24hrs i must say i think i would be hard pushed to force the hinge apart now. I reckon it would break elsewhere before giving up at the hinge. It seems super strong, amazed by it really. I used Foam 2 Foam glue. I will report back after i have flown with them and see if they degrade over time. Thank you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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