Balsa Cartoon Cutlass

[Old_Robin]

Hi Texas Flier.

Yes, mine is about 24 oz too. Balances on the spar and flies nicely. Only caution I would give is to not over bank in turns as if you do, with the long nose, I have had mine kick into a spin a couple of times. Other than that this is a great little plane.

Best of luck.

Old_Robin

PS Mine flies on a Hobbyking funfighter motor and a 4S 850mAh 90c battery....which is why it is quite light. I used this as I have loads of the batteries as I love the funfighter series by Hobbyking...

[Fun Flyer]

Mine came out at 28oz and flies well with a 3S LiPo and an 8x6 prop. My only quibble is that it seems a bit hard on the prop which regularly breaks on landing. Has anyone else had this problem or found a solution?

[ron evans]

Hi Fun Flyer, I use a 5x5 on mine with a 2200 KV motor, and haven't broken a prop yet.

Your 8x6 is more exposed to the ground on landing, perhaps a 7x7 or a 3 blade 6x4 would keep it out of harms way.

Ron

Edited By ron evans on 06/04/2016 12:52:37

[Old_Robin]

Hi Fun Flyer,

I use APC 5.5 x 4.5E speed props on Hobbyking funfighters and as a pusher on the Cutlass. To provide enough clearance I use the hub from a second old broken prop to offset the prop away from the motor. There is a lot of thread on the motor adaptor so this is no issue. Also the prop "undoes" as it is not a pusher prop, so check the tightness of the prop nut every few flights.

Remember to power-off well before getting near the ground and glide in the flare. This helps.

Regards -- Old_Robin

[Fun Flyer]

Thanks for that guys. I've ordered some smaller props so we'll see how that goes. As regards "gliding in the flare" my Cutlass doesn't really do gliding!!

[Andy G.]

Well, the Cutlass is quite a quick build, basic structure all done, halfway through tissue covering using Poly C ,then painting and electrics fit out to do all in just a couple of weeks of spare time. And she looks great! Once the tissue is all on I'll take some pics before painting her and getting the decal set applied.

[ron evans]

Hi Andy, I've not tried Poly C on a sheet balsa wing. Had any issues with with warping?

F. F....No the cutlass doesn't do gliding, but it's really good at getting down on our patch surrounded by trees.You can make an approach high above the trees and with the high sink rate still get down on the spot, keeping a little speed on for the flare.

Ron

[Andy G.]

Ron, Poly C and tissue is my favourite way of finishing sheet models, toughens them up a treat and personally I've never warped one (yet). I've even finished the fins that way and they are fine, I do of course do both sides at once..I'll pop a couple of pics up later..

[Andy G.]

Progress so far, fins covered, underside of wing covered. Probably won't bother covering fuselage though..

[ron evans]

Looking good Andy. Will try Poly C / tissue on the next flat sheet wing

[Andy G.]

Well, Cutlass nearly ready to rock and roll! Built, decorated, decals fitted, servos in and linked up, just working on extending wires for the esc and finding and fitting the rx. Then balance and go try it! The balance is looking like it will come out fine with a 3S 2200 LiPo about half way into the nose section. Haven't weighed it yet but it seems pretty light for it's size and I have quite a pokey motor on the back so fingers crossed!.. Posting a couple of pics up from the workshop. It looks pretty much like the one from the article as I used the same colour scheme and the decal set from Model markings. I'll take the camera out with me when I go for the maiden and if I can get someone to take the sticks I'll try for some airborne shots.. really enjoyed building this one!!!

[ron evans]

Nice job Andy, I just love that shape. Good luck with the maiden...best get someone to launch for you, it's handy to have both hands on the sticks first time.

Ron

[Andy G.]

Sound advice Ron! Plus... if it all goes 'Pete Tong' I can blame it on a bad launch!! LOL..

[Fun Flyer]

See what happens with the Cutlass when you get too fast, too low and then lose the plot!!

Just in case anyone is wondering if this model is robust!

Dig it out, dust it off and its ready to fly!!! Try that with your foamy!

[Jim Stewart]

Edited By Jim Stewart on 14/11/2016 17:22:55

[Jim Stewart]

Sorry, forgot to add comments to the photo.....

Flew with Turnigy 2826 220Kv motor giving >250W/lb, being depron, so it's a bit manic.

Fin flutter biggest problem. Tried carbon strips with limited success. Just have to keep the speed down to get back in control.

Might try a "wooden" one next time!

[ron evans]

Hi Jim, my depron fins had a top to bottom 1mm carbon rod, glass covered and fillets at the wing juncture. With a similar power set to yours mine is pretty quick too, but has no flutter problems. I must admit I now get more fun seeing how slow I can get it to fly, must be an age thing.

Fun Flyer.....Yours is the second Cutlass I've seen do a subterranean "landing" without damage...a tough nut.

Ron.

[Andy G.]

I really MUST get mine maidened, been sat on the workbench for a couple of months now!!!!

[Mannyroad]

Andy,

I finally got around to maidening my Cutlass a few weeks ago now actually. Turned out quite a disappointing event.

First off I had a 7" x 4" prop and when my friend hand launched, on our local beach, it wallowed around till it found the floor whereupon the prop broke. Turns out on inspection I had accidentally put the prop on the wrong way round so it was not providing sufficient thrust. It's evident in the photo. Between us we only had an 8"x6" prop, so on that went. Now that this was on right, there was bags of thrust, so we tried again. It hand launched well and on full throttle it soon gathered speed. All was well till it got about 150-200m away and then I simply seemed to lose control, the model seeming to torque roll over erratically until it thumped straight down into the hard sand at a hell of a rate.

The thud was quite loud, and I fully expected there to be little left. However, once the nose was dug out of the sand there was nothing at all broken. Amazing. Just slightly wrinkled the covering over the balsa nose.

The disturbing thing for me is that I can see no reason for the loss of control. Wasn't sure if it was putting an 8 x 6 prop on that caused the issue. Will revert back to a 7x4 and try again, hopefully to achieve an uneventful maiden flight.

This is the plane before it went in.

Edited By Mannyroad on 16/11/2016 19:34:10

Edited By Mannyroad on 16/11/2016 19:34:52

[Mannyroad]

Forgot to mention that mine is a balsa version, solarfilm covered and sprayed with acrylic paint.

[Andy G.]

Manny,

That's odd, one would expect torque roll issues at launch but not once you've achieved flight speed. It sounds more like a radio issue, presumably you did a range check before the flight.

She looks nice though, same scheme as mine.

Edited By Andy G. on 17/11/2016 08:29:55

[Old_Robin]

Manny,

I noticed a very similar problem. I diagnosed it as over-banking in turns. With the long nose it seems it tucks under suddenly and you lose control. Reduced banking solved it for me... Old_Robin

[ron evans]

I think I agree with you Old_Robin. Assuming no radio problems, over banking might be it. I've had over 300 flights on mine and I'm still very cautious in roll, with the model at speed and far out.

It might be an elevon thing. When you apply roll one goes up, the other down. Now pull in up and one goes to neutral but the other goes further up, and.....oops. In a bank & yank turn I try to get off the roll before pulling up...I don't always get a smooth turn.

Ron

Edited By ron evans on 17/11/2016 17:50:47

[Fun Flyer]

Mannyroad, I too have suffered from the prop on the wrong way syndrome! Fortunately there was an area of long grass to hand.
​I've also noticed that the nose definitely tucks under in the turn.
Robust though aren't they....

[sceadu498]

Would using some aileron differential help at all with the nose tucking under? Just thinking out loud…..