Derek Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Can anyone point me in the right direction with regard to fixing the acetate canopy to a fibreglass frame,this is something new for me?Many thanks,Derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Richards Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 I have used 3 methods1. Glue it on with cyno. I do not like this as it is easy to make a mess and the canopy is there for good2. Tape it on with thin strips of matching solatrim. This is quite good but I have concerns about security.3. Use small screws (servo screws). This is one of my favorite methodes and the screws can look quite good if the are put in the right places.I have also used a combination of methods say 2 and 3 if I did not like the look of the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Tee Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 Glue it on with canopy glue, takes a long time to set though and you need to tape/clamp the canopy in place until it does. But it does set clear so if you do get some in the wrong place it doesn't notice too much. Or glue it on with silicone sealant the type which dries clear. Either method make it failry easy to remove the canopy should the need arise. Cyano can create a mist in a canopy which you can't easily get off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Mackey Posted June 13, 2008 Share Posted June 13, 2008 I always found a thin line of simple clear silicon sealant held canopys in place nicely. I used it on my IC spit a couple of seasons ago after a partial refit involved removing the canopy...and it has held fine so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Been a long time since the last posting on this one, but the search engine is a wonderful thing... Is it generally necessary to key the surface (i.e. lightly rough it up) that's being glued or do the silicone/canopy glues not require it? I'm about to glue some vac-formed under-wing radiator mouldings and a canopy so any tips along this line would be very timely. Shaun K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garry Pollard Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Shaun Being an ex plumber we never roughened up a bath or wash basin before using silicon sealant and when it dried it was a job to get it off, so my answer would be no. If however it wasnt succesfull a light roughening up would not hurtbut I never have found the need GarryEdited By Garry Pollard on 15/02/2010 11:45:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Thanks Garry. Appreciate the feedback. Shaun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 One more question on gluing canopies and plastic mouldings - how wide a flange should I leave around the edges to glue? I'm gluing a couple of under-wing radiator mouldings on and I have plenty of room to spare around the moulded part, but obviously the smaller the amount the better it will look. Should I be thinking just a couple of mm, or should i be more like 4-5mm? The parts are about 80mm wide x 130mm long and about 20mm deep. I've never used canopy glue before so I have no idea how thin an edge I can glue without bits falling off. Shaun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Thanks Eric. There's plenty of room inside, it's just a big open cavity. That sounds like a plan to me. Shaun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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