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Electric Bike


Dai Fledermaus
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I'm thinking of buying an Electric Bicycle,

1, to get some badly needed exercise, although I haven't been on a bicycle for years.

2, the flying field is about a mile away so with a tow behind trailer it's not beyond the bounds of possibility to cycle there complete with model and gear.

The problem is that I live on a hill so getting to the field would not be such a big deal but getting back home involves climbing a 1 in 10 or 11.5% hill, hence the need for some electric assistance.

If any of you have considered buying one, the choice is mind boggling, there are so many different models on the market from £500 to £600 to several thousands of pounds and more. Most are made or should I say assembled in China and like everything in life you get what you pay for, some are very good others are rather bad. The battery it seems is all important.

I've narrowed my search down to a few models from Momentum Electric and Woosh Electric Bikes with a budget of about £1000.

Do any of you have any thoughts or experience which could help?

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Hi

I have been riding electric bikes for the last 4 years or so.

Woosh bikes certainly are good .

My experience has been of buying at auction, refurbishing and selling on.

My favourite in the 250watt range was the Viking ego, but let me make this quite clear, NO 250watt machine will get you up a hill!

My grandson was in need of transport to work and reluctantly I passed over the Viking to him and he is making good use of it back and forth to work a distance of 7 miles each way. With and upgraded battery he can get both ways on one charge.

Which brings me to another point. Don't believe the range figures quoted . They just don't work out in practice.

Having lost my best bike (the Viking) I was scouring Fleabay in search of another bargain whem swmbo pipes up, "for goodness sake why don't you buy a new one" .

No sooner said than done.

A 500watt bike from "electricbikeconversions" for 750 smackers.

What a bike! 30mph off road and real hill climbing ability with a decent range. You can limit the speed to remain legal but on a hill open her up and WOW !!!!

Take a look at their on line site or on Flebay.

I have had the bike about six months now and am very pleased. Takes a little more maintenance than a normal bike but well within the capabilities of any aeromodeller.

Robin

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MPosted by Robin Etherton on 21/11/2015 12:20:47:

............. NO 250watt machine will get you up a hill!

 

Not without some legwork of your own, that is. I have been riding a Trek T700+ for the last five and a half years, and I am most pleased with it. Admittedly, this is riding in Holland, which is where I live, and the only inclines here are bridges and viaducts, but I have taken it abroad as well. I did not have any problem in climbing 10-11% inclines, just switch to the highest support step of the E-system, and gear down to a low ratio. Of course it will use a healthy dose of amps which will drain your battery at a fast rate, but for shortish inclines this is not a problem, and I believe a 1 mile long incline should be within the possibilities (but I never tried it), depending on sustaining your own contribution of course.

I use it sometimes to cycle to my flying field, which is at a comparable distance as yours, but I tend to build models which can be transported in my car without disassembly, and they are a bit largish to load on the bike, but I do it sometimes. I bought myself a trailer which is basically a large model shopping trolley which can be hooked onto a towing hook below the saddle. (made by Burley, expensive but very good). As I said, I did take it abroad, recently to the UK as well. We (my wife owns one too) climbed the Devizes incline in the Kennet and Avon canal on the cycle path next to the locks without problems. We thought riding on the (mostly narrow) all-traffic roads a bit dangerous, so did do not very much else on the bikes.

One distinct advantage of the Trek-E-bikes is that they have 4 "negative" support steps as well, which are great to go downhill and not having to rely on your regular brakes to slow down to a safe speed!

Greetings,

Max.

Edited By Max Z on 21/11/2015 13:15:47

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No problem.

Yes, bike looks ok but it's still 250w and believe me you will be disappointed with its grunt. Max 15mph on flat down to zero on a hill unless you pedal like a demented thing.

Believe me 250w just doesn't deliver whatever clever electronics are incorperated into the controls.

Talk to the people at electric bike conversions before you buy anything, they are very approachable.

Ps . I am not related to them or anything I am just a happy customer.

Robin

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I've been cycling for years - and quite seriously for a lot of them at around 10k miles/year. My wife and I have been celebrating rather too many birthdays as have our cycling friends and several of them have decided to add a little electric power to their old legs.

I've looked at a few purpose-built electric bikes but most of our friends have opted to convert their own lightweight touring bikes. Most of us have (reluctantly in my case) changed from dropped bars to straight and that seems to be best for electric. The usual method is for a motor built into the front wheel with a the battery pack carried in a purpose designed pannier frame over the rear wheel. That makes a very attractive and functional machine that seems to perform far better than the rather clunky purpose designed ones which look like Dutch shopping bikes (apologies to Max . I have known a lot of Dutch cyclists and they all have both 'proper' bikes/tandems and utility bikes for shopping).

It depends on where you live and if it's flat as a pancake like the Netherlands (even the 'hilly' bits) then a heavy shopper is fine but if, lke us, it's a bit lumpy (and seems to be getting lumpier) then a converted lightweight can offer a better ride.

Geoff

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If you want exercise you should go for a electric assist bike these give you the range as only work if you peddel and the electric motor works through gears so is very efficient(the motor works through the peddel hub not the wheel hub) , You can set the assist to low med or high . you don't need any assist down hills and very little on the flat (unless you got a strong head wind)

these are far better than the ones with a throttle and so are used a lot like a electric motorbike

heres a good explination of what i am on about

Edited By flight1 on 21/11/2015 15:02:18

Edited By flight1 on 21/11/2015 15:09:03

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Here's mine

Front-wheel conversion (because its easier than a rear). The complete kit was IIRC about £190, you get wheel wit tyre, speed controller, bag for same,. new levers with cut-off switches, pedal pressure switch, everything except a battery. I ditched the 8-year-old A123s and now use HobbyKing Blue lipos, 10S at 5000mAH.

..and I agree with everything thats been said about 250 watts. Skins & custards.

Cheers
Phil

 

 

Edited By Phil Green on 21/11/2015 15:03:18

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Posted by flight1 on 21/11/2015 14:58:02:

Iheres a good explination of what i am on about

That is an excellent reference as far as I am concerned. Though what it does not mention is the disadvantage of having the weight of the electric motor in the front wheel when lifting it or generally manipulating it when parking. Try lifting one over a high(ish) threshold to get it inside your house or shed, and you will know what I mean.

Max.

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Ah!

Good point Max and one I forgot. The weight.

Not so much consideration if you are just riding it but if you want ot take it with you when you go out in the car you will either need a folding version or get a bike rack.

As I tow a caravan and have a swan neck tow bar the only cost effective rack for me is a roof one.

Here's the rub at approaching 70 years old I have to be very careful when lifting it onto the rack as it can so easily slip and scratch the paintwork. I use a kick step to stand on to give me a little advantage. PITA though.

Robin

Ps current weight of my latest bike is 22kg including the battery. You. Will find this is quite light as electric bikes go.

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Posted by Max Z on 21/11/2015 15:43:22:

Posted by flight1 on 21/11/2015 14:58:02:

Iheres a good explination of what i am on about

That is an excellent reference as far as I am concerned. Though what it does not mention is the disadvantage of having the weight of the electric motor in the front wheel when lifting it or generally manipulating it when parking. Try lifting one over a high(ish) threshold to get it inside your house or shed, and you will know what I mean.

Max.

But most of the weight is the battery which is over the rear wheel. With the motor in the front hub the weight distribution is more even and front wheel spokes almost never break in normal use whereas rear ones can and do. You either have to lift the front or the back and if it's a step then you can roll the front wheel over it.

We've often used good quality (Campagnolo) single bike front wheels in our tandem for heavy touring (ie with camping gear) with no problems. I used to build rear wheels with 40 x 13 plain gauge spokes for the tandem for reliability.

Geoff.

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i used the wrong wording in my explanation the best ones have the motor in the crank (Crank drive system).

my father had one and had good use out of he would regually do 50 miles with the bike on low assist mode and have a good amount of juice left (Liithium type bats), it was a great help to him as he was in his mid 70's (it's very up and down here in Cornwall)and he highly reconmended this type off bike.

I cann't remember the make off hand as he gave up and sold on a couple of years back, about 14kg i remember the bike being. I was realy impresed with it when he got it a few years ago as there were no others of this type available then.

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With everything including a relatively big motor, battery, controller & all my extra electronics over the front mine is very nose-heavy. I've not tried a dive-test yet but in flight it behaves perfectly, with no particular handling problems. I lift it over kerbs & steps easily enough but I wouldnt like to risk it on a car bike rack - its significantly heavier than a conventional bike.

The only handling 'peculiarity' is if you're turning around (ie with quite a bit of lock on) and you apply power, the front-wheel drive can whisk the front away sharpish which is a bit disconcerting till you get used to it. The torque is surprising and it will spin up on mud and wet leaves.

I just wish they would update the law in the light of experience, 250 watts really isnt enough - theres no real need to go nuts but if they allowed say 500 or even 750 watts whilst keeping the existing 15mph limit, that would be much better I think.

Cheers
Phil

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I think your salesman has it wrong Steve - web stories seem to agree on a 250w/15.5mph limit for 2016 (up from 200w in the UK).  There is talk of 500w in Sweden alone, but not the rest of Europe. Anything over 250w is a moped or motorbike, with all the associated insurance/helmet/blahblah regulations.    There is a lot of talk about a ban on throttles - new bikes will all have to be switched by pedal pressure - but thats not mentioned in the amendment so I'm not sure.
**LINK**

 

 

 

Edited By Phil Green on 21/11/2015 19:33:10

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The situation in the Netherlands: E-bikes are restricted to 250W and e-motor support up to 25 km/h max., no throttle. So called "speed-pedelecs" (support up to 45 km/h) will be categorized as mopeds per 2017, right now their status is unclear, officially they are classed as "snorfiets" (light moped), with a speed limit of 25 km/h, the same as their IC cousins. No helmet, but insurance is mandatory. In practice, everybody is exceeding the speed limit and it is not really enforced. Use of the cycle path is mandatory. But per 1-1-2017 things will change, max speed is 45 km/h, helmet and insurance mandatory. Use of cycle path only outside built up area's (the "open road" ). I don't know if everything will be backed by EU rules though...

Max.

Edited By Max Z on 23/11/2015 14:59:42

Edited By Max Z on 23/11/2015 15:04:22

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