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Phil Green

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Everything posted by Phil Green

  1. Without seeing another tx we dont even know if it should be present... It could be a temporary calibration link, or a test point - is it visible without dismantling, if so I'd hold out for someone with one of these txs checking theirs. I take it that the regulator is no longer getting hot? Without a schematic its guesswork. R43 connects directly to the 3v3 regulator output so best guess its part of some RC noise filtering on the power rail between the RF module and the encoder. Probably quite low in value, maybe 100Ω. I really would try to find out before trying anything. On the other hand if you're at the 'try anything' stage then.... ? Edit: I've pm'd Andy (Spekky Tech) but whether he'll answer I dont know.
  2. I'm curious about the missing resistor, that could be some onward feed to an essential part of the circuitry - could do with another tx to compare! Maybe it got hot and desoldered itself, quite possible. Note that the other (not regulator) end of R43 appears to go to the switch.... 🙂 So when you switch on, absolutely nothing happens? Is it drawing any current when its 'on' ? Had you damaged the RF board, you'd expect the screen would still come on...
  3. I'm not a Spekky user so I'm not sure how robust the RF board is, but generally speaking thats a bad idea 🙂 I use a proper dummy load for testing, an RF mismatch can be terminal! Or not, depends on luck & circumstances... does the tx work now?
  4. ...yeah, but just look at those hills... they're calling you... 🙂
  5. Its a 3v3 linear LDO voltage regulator and shouldnt be more than warm... a short somewhere? >>Annoyingly having got a replacement switch I was able to be sure what connections were being made/unmade and the old switch seems to do the same. Sorry I dont follow this bit (?) The voltage regulator output feeds R43 (near the switch) which I notice is MIA - could be intentional, could have fallen off as lead-free soldered components often do...
  6. Used to spend hours & hours as a kid reading the MAP Plans handbook. A great source of inspiration! ...but I have way too much carp already...
  7. I did get a belated reply from Balsa Cabin, it seems their version of the SAS Wildthing is the Mk2 having 12" root chord including elevons. Of all Alans variations I expect most slopers would have preferred the much-superior Mk3 with the wider 15" root chord, but maybe the decision was based on available EPP widths, I gather EPP is quite hard to source now. Anywho... Cheers Phil
  8. Whilst its true that only relative movement between a wire & a magnet will induce a current, thats not the only consideration. With typical 27 and 35 receivers, a strong magnet in close proximity can saturate an IF transformer, an interstage coupling transformer or even the front-end aerial tuning slug, affecting rx sensitivity and selectivity 🙂
  9. I've had a DX5e and two 35mhz Hitec Optic 6 transmitters that all did exactly the same thing - duff slide-switch, jiggle it and sometimes it would power up... On one of the Hitecs I just shorted the on/off switch to 'on' and fitted a separate toggle switch. It would be quite difficult to actually swap out even if an identical switch was available, but its been absolutely fine ever since fitting the bodge-switch, a regular flyer. The DX5e and the other Hitec are in the 'projects for a rainy day' box...
  10. My pal Rob has a tiny Radiomaster, looks really neat, especially against Shaun's Multiplex! 😊
  11. The stall isnt speed-related, its purely an angle-of-attack thing 😉
  12. ...and robots, who remembers Tommy, Mr Robotham, and Teal?
  13. South Wales is also prime slope-soaring territory! 😉
  14. Balsa Cabin must doing so well that they dont need to answer emails... 🙂
  15. Ron as you know my models are smaller and a foot wide would be fine for me, is this the right type of film do you reckon? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186086456740 Not sure if they all 'iron on' ... this seems an economical buy as long as its the right stuff 😏
  16. Your red & yellow J60 looks familiar David ! 😃 Could it be the same one? I dont remember where mine came from, I didnt build it... (sorry for the OT tangent Ron) Cheers Phil
  17. 3 years ago, but, a 10 year old kid at the time...
  18. Can anyone confirm that the Balsa Cabin Wildthing 46 is the Mk3 (root chord 15" including elevons) please From verbal descriptions on the slope it sounds like theirs is the Mk2 (root 11.5" inc, "straight" TE) Asking for a pal who fancies one, my old ones just keep on going... (I've a mk1, 2 and a 3!) Cheers Phil
  19. I do as many as I can, as a widower I'm always on my todd. I just love the place, its magical 🙂
  20. And pillion seats, stops them getting left behind at the lights... 🙂
  21. ...otherwise the thrustline isnt central 🙂
  22. Do you have a favourite make/protocol in mind Robert? Lemons are currently very popular. Try Stu Mackay, he's the EU importer direct from Frederick at Lemon: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133704108565 T9 Hobbysport may have Frsky modules in stock. Hobbyking have the Orange module: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orangerx-dsmx-dsm2-compatible-2-4ghz-diy-transmitter-module.html and also a Frsky JR-style module & rx combo https://hobbyking.com/en_us/frsky-djt-2-4ghz-combo-pack-for-jr-w-telemetry-module-v8fr-ii-rx.html I'm a bit out of touch with prices as I dont use commercial modules any more 😉 Cheers Phil
  23. Drill, then bolts & nylock nuts. My reasoning is that the area around a correctly inserted self-tapper is under constant stress, thats how all screws work. Over a large area that stress has the surrounding material to work against. In an engine mount it can only work against fresh air - the bearer will very likely split if subjected to any impact, shock or further stress. I've even seen them break on flick-starting.
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