Phil Green

Аո ехаmрlе - рісk аny wоrԁ yоu lіkе frоm thіs роst, аոԁ try tо sеаrсh fоr іt usіոg 'fіոԁ' оr 'Sеаrсh wіthіn раgе'. Chееrs Phіl

Failsafe and ESC throttle calibration are two entirely separate things, so separate them and do one at a time. Unplug your ESC and plug in a spare servo into the throttle channel. Switch on your Tx Get a NiMh pack and plug it into a spare Rx channel. Wait for the Rx to link and check the servos move. Shut the throttle stick and note which end the servo goes to Briefly dab the Rx button and observe the green flash. Thats it, your failsafe is set. Test it by switching off the Tx and watching the throttle servo go the the position you noted above. Now, Remove the battery from the Rx, remove the prop and unplug the throttle servo. Plug your ESC into your Rx throttle channel. Plug in a Lipo and wait for the Rx to link. Check the servos wiggle. Check the throttle operation. Does the ESC need calibrating? If so unplug the lipo, set the Tx to full throttle, plug the Lipo back in. Wait for the beeps and immediately shut the throttle, and expect 3 beeps (if a 3 cell Lipo) Thats the ESC calibrated, If your 'disarm' function now gives full throttle, then its a Tx programming problem, nothing whatever to do with ESC calibration or Failsafe 🙂 Unless its an old ESC I would be surprised if it ever needed calibrating, most modern ones use continuous training - they remember the lowest and highest throttle channel signal they've ever seen. Hope this helps! 😉 Cheers Phil

There are small chargers that connect only via the balance lead, I keep one in my ammo box so I can charge my small 2S lipos at the field. Along similar lines, I've found that even on my posh Icharger the voltage monitoring at the charge connector isnt that accurate, and that even for a single 1S cell its necessary to wire to the balance connector where the voltages are measured much more accurately, sounds weird, (why would you 'balance' a 1S 🙂 ), but I've found its the only way to ensure accuracy 🙂

I do like my Dub's 'hill start assist', though I dont trust it 100%, always ready with the 'real' brakes... dont like stop-start... dont like the touchscreen radio... dont like the frequent 'Insufficient flow' error from the EGR... love the ride, comfy for 100s of miles... but the headlights are terrible, sometimes at night I have to stop to check they're on...

Hey I'm only joshing EC its all good 🙂 In other news, today has been a day to reflect on our overdependence on computers... 🙂 ...or rather, on giving such world-changing power to one small software company that you've never heard of... 😁

It was topical back on page 1... 😄 😁 😃 https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/56985-so-called-driving-aids-on-new-cars-help-or-hinderence/&do=findComment&comment=1010935

Weather is looking good for Sundays Single-Channel & Retro R/C event, if a tad breezy!

Its a smooth 78 Ron 🙂

Campers please note: Friday is a horse-racing event at Ponty Park, so we have no access on Friday. The gate will be open early Saturday morning.

I think a major problem with modern day driving, which is confirmed by this thread, is that every driver thinks that he or she is brilliant and that every other driver is an idiot 🙂 Now whilst I'm aware this is promoted as a safety practise, it also means that every bad situation must be someone elses fault - they are after all, the idiot. But we all make the occasional mistake and are consequently branded an idiot by other individually-brilliant drivers. In Leeds, many junctions have the signage actually on the junction, leaving a stranger no time or space to choose the right lane. Leeds drivers would rather cause an accident (probably for their £250 dashcam footage) than politely allow you to correct your mistake. I'm not sure everyone is an idiot, though its a good case to make, but I do find modern day drivers impatient and inconsiderate. In particular I frequently see HGV drivers having to make accident avoidance moves as car drivers cut them up, blissfully unaware of their 200 metre stopping distance. Maybe lane-assist should advise when its safe to pull in after an overtake, based on the type of overtaken vehicle. One driving aid I would love to see introduced is an easily operated "thank you" and "sorry" indicator. How much road-rage would that avoid?

Quite a few pals I've spoken to were unaware that as of July 7th all new EU cars have by law to be fitted with "intelligent speed assist" and whilst its not mandatory in the UK (yet) I cant see the manufacturers making one version of a cars electronics for the entire EU (including NI) and a different version for the much smaller UK market. In a nutshell, the reason you have these is cos its now EU law, unfortunately 🙂 "Which?" recently reported: During the course of testing the MG4 (a popular electric car from MG), we encountered a potentially significant issue relating to the car’s lane-assist system, which is designed to keep the car in lane. Specifically, we noticed that: the lane-assist system twice pulled the car onto the wrong side of the road in another incident on a narrower country road, the lane-assist system steered the MG4 towards an oncoming vehicle

Dropping the voltage in any way, variable PSU, rheostat, bulb, whatever, reduces the torque. Some sort of PWM control is much better, eg: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/387171585832 Heres a cheaper one if 2 amps is enough (I would expect so) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/386223376972 or use Outrunners suggestion, brushed ESC and a cheap servo tester (£1 ebay) 😊 ...or, if you're up for it, a PWM controller is a very easy DIY project :)

Try one of these John, 30%, 50% & 75%

Heres another in the UK and cheaper? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283982329602

Is this the right type Glenn? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404571989276

No unfriendliness intended, I just picked up on your advice: ...which I humbly suggest ought to be "make sure you do NOT use the lipo mode unless you're using a lipo" Your advice was never to use it, which negates its purpose 🙂 you then introduced misuse ie selecting the wrong mode for a BEC or Nimh. Its just a discussion, nothing more, your comments are as informative as anyones, theres no animosity here 🙂

The cut-off option is provided purely to save the lipo should you forget to switch off, leaving it powered up during a period of storage - you would never fly a 2S lipo down to 6v, so in flight the cut-off would never come into effect. No-one would fly a lipo down to a destructive level of discharge - and at 3v per cell the pack has no remaining capacity - its well over the knee (ooh-er missus 🙂 ) Personally, rather than an LVC, I prefer an inactivity alarm to remind me I've left something switched on (it happens!) Ron, presumably you're not using 'Lipo mode' with your LiFePo4's as 3v per cell is only partway down their discharge curve, theres still significant capacity remaining at 3v 🙂

Then you wouldnt set Lipo mode, which is provided for Lipo users. TCIITN. My point was that at 3v per Lipo cell, its academic 🙂

Dang, thats another one I missed! Finningley Ham Radio Rally on the same day too!

If you take your Lipos down to 3v per cell then its about to fall out of the sky anyway, 3v is flat! 🙂

Just an observation for anyone contemplating this switch - its for 2S Lipo not LiFePo4, the switch cut-off being 6v, only part-way down the discharge curve of a LiFePo4 pair... 🙂 And another observation on 'Opto'. Adrian's throttle signal is transferred to the ESC only via a light-beam, with no electrical connection. This isolates the 'power' side completely from the 'control' side of things and so averts any wired-interference. Cheap R/C outlets use the term 'Opto ' to describe any ESC without a BEC. That does not necessarily mean it has an optically coupled throttle input. It may have but most dont - do check! Beware, all is not always what its claimed to be! Cheers Phil Edit: thats just made me think - a genuine, add-on optoisolator would make a simple "&E" project 🙂

Hi all, just to clarify that Sunday 21st is our "Single Channel & Retro R/C" event, the only meeting of its kind to encourage Single-Channel, Reeds & Galloping Ghost enthusiasts or for anyone curious about these systems - though of course we're not exclusive, retro models with modern gear are all equally welcome. Alongside modern gear you'll also see 'Golden Age' radios resurrected from decades passed - the idea is to have a great day of model flying just as it used to be back in the good old days when Wee Macgregor was In Control 🙂 This unique meeting has always had a fantastic vibe, a real time-warp back to simpler times, long summers with screaming Coxes, burbling Mills 75's, and a sky full of sticks & tissue 🙂 Details on the http://www.singlechannel.co.uk Looking forward to seeing you there! Phil & Shaun

I use Kontakt, Servisol or Electrolube spray for cleaning contacts, plugs & sockets, all equally effective: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/electronics-cleaners/1014937

I cut mine at 90° and re-glued using POR 🙂 Similar technique to increase the dihedral for rudder/elevator versions 🙂